[Guest]

Hey I am thinking more and more that my 02 daytona has some serious issues. The more I talk to people with other ones, the more and more I think there is a problem with the computer on mine.
Most noticable are:
Incredibly hard to start cold, as in cranks for a long time/multiple times to start, other times it fires right up first touch of the button.
Runs really rich at idle/low rpms/hard acceleration.
Way down on power (at a track 600's can match me from 60-115 before I start pulling away)

I was going to dyno it to verify the low power output, but the local speed shop with the dyno, got rid of the dyno.

I bough the bike used with 2200 miles on it, and had to replace the battery this past summer. Other than that there has been nohting mechanical/electrical done to the bike. There is just over 9800 on it now.

I have heard that once you expose the daytona to cold weather, it shouldn't have a problem starting at all, all year long, but the first time its a little hard. I also remember someone telling me the computers run richer for the first several hundred miles, then switch programming after a certain break-in level was reached. I might be mistaken on that one though.

I don't really want to take it to the dealer, which is two hours away, without knowing more just to make sure they don't stick me with a "lets replace parts until we find the one that fixed it, and bill the customer for all of them" routine.

Anyone have any ideas on what to do/where to look for this, or if what I am experiencing is normal?

 

[bradtx]

jethomp, If there isn't a fault lamp lit (other than prior to start up) there's likely nothing wrong with the ECU.

If you have an off road exhaust and the 10181 TOR map installed, the bike can be difficult to cold start at times . Idle speed needs to be 1200-1250 RPM and don't go by the tach as it's a bit vague down low. It may also be a good time for a set of plugs and a new air filter.

600s don't give up much at all to the litre bikes at the track and can lap faster on a technical course. All in all it doesn't sound like anything serious is wrong with your bike.

Brad

 

[fivehundo]

How many miles does the bike have now?

Reason for asking: my husky became a little hard to start when the exhaust valves became over the service limit on valve clearance. If you now have somewhere in the 18 - 21000 mile range, it might be worth sticking a feeler gauge into...

 

[Guest]

Its got just over 9800 miles on it now. As far as I know, there are no maps on the ECU. It had new plugs and a filter at 5k, but the problem has persisted. It has no mechanical modes, still has the stock pipe, gearing, clutches, etc.

The track isn't really technical, the point that bothers me is on the 3/4 mile long front straight out of an 70 mph corner. Logic would hold that the Daytona would hold its own against 929's, 954's, and RC-51's (all lower hp/trq liter class bikes). However, those walk away from me, while i can barely overtake older 600's. The newest 600's can match me pace for pace all the way down the straight.

 

[Japawhat02]

judging by what you just said, you might want to look into a can a tune and a gear change. More than likely everybike your going up against at the track already has these. Which will explain how your are being out run. even though the jap bikes are down on power, most are still faster than our tonas, and coming out of a 70mpher you can expect them to pull away. Its all about location of power. IMHO

 

[doodledog]

On 2007-02-11 23:17, Japawhat02 wrote:
judging by what you just said, you might want to look into a can a tune and a gear change.
even though the jap bikes are down on power, most are still faster than our tonas, and coming out of a 70mpher you can expect them to pull away. Its all about location of power. IMHO

Agreed if a track addict has tweeked a four cylinder bike with gearing, pipe etc, and if your going against one from 70mph, its right in its powerband revs wise and will p*ss all over a standard Tona, your advantage is on torque and grunt and road usabiity as its set for road use in the real world from new, if you want a track weapon put on a loud pipe and get a new map in the ECU, and go for a sprocket change, as someone else said the hard starting I would put down to a good service, air filter could be getting blocked which would explain running rich as its not getting enough air, new plugs would help too. You have to think about what you want from it, if you use the bike on the road you want road usability lots of torque and fun, a Tona is not going to beat an R1 or blade it would'nt new it definatly wont now, its not going to leave a new 600 by much either as its heavy and a triple a sport 600 will stay with a sport 1000 up to 130, but thats not what the tona is about, its a fantastic tool for real riding, in the hands of a good rider it will not be disgraced by anything especially in the twisty bits and powering out of slow corners, its not going to win races against track wepons though unless you really go mad with tunning parts. Well thets my 2 cents worth anyhow.

 

[Guest]

I should elaborate on the starting issue more. It doesn't crank slowly, it cranks fast, but it just plain wont start. It will sit there, crank and crank and crank, for several trys. I'll reset the ignition switch, the cutout switch, open the throttle a little, nothing. Then just randomly (I have not gotten it to start the same way twice) it will fire up, and run up to high idle without the slightest missfire, stutter or hesitation. That alone worries me more than anything else. I could figure it out if it would sorta start up, chug a little, and eventually settle in nice and smooth, but this on/off no start condition is beyond my skills and the weak Triumph Service manual I have for it.

 

[Japawhat02]

well i know that my bike is hard to start sometimes. Takes tree or four tries, and other times (mostly when its warmer) starts on the first try, If its not turning over slowly or idling wrong then i wouldnt worry about it too much. Just another daytona quirk, some bikes do it some dont. Grab a can a tune and some sprokets and youll be happy, i promise. :wink:

 

[Guest]

Ok then thats what I'll do :-D

 

[doodledog]

The worry I have is you said your opening the throttle slightly when trying to start, Dont do it, it messes up the ECU fueling, and can really***** up the starting, turn the bike on wait till the lights on the clock light up, that then makes the bike ready, press the starter, do not touch the throttle, bike will start and go to fast idle then sort itself out, with the speed four and other injected Triumphs like the Tona, if you touch the throttle it changes the ECU setting for starting, and will mess up starting untill the ECU is reset, this is done on an S4 by running the bike through two heat cycles IE letting the bike run till the fan comes on twice while parked, this resets the ECU and as long as you dont touch the throttle again when starting she will run/start fine every time, I am assumng this will work on the Tona, I messed up my S4 in the same way and this is what cured it, as its running fine when it eventually starts it indicates to me that this is the problem, wil not hurt to try it anyway.

 

[Japawhat02]

yeah I agree with doodle, it helps some bikes. Worth a shot.

 

[cal-riss]

Did you ever get the bike running right again?

 

[Guest]

Um yes I did actually. I ended up going in there to clean the plugs before I took it to barber a couple of weeks back, and ended up breaking one of the plastic gas line connectors. Well I was able to sneak off of work the next day, get up to my local dealer (2hrs away) and have them replace the lines under the recall. At the same time, I had just boughten a used TOR pipe, which was on the bike, so they were also kind enough to put the updated map, with the tuning done up for the pipe. I also bought a new front sprocket, one down like everyone says.

The starting problem is different now, now it cranks longer, but slowly chugs to life, but it will start everytime if you hold the starter down for about 8 seconds.

The bike definetly gets up and goes like it should have now, which cures that problem :-D

 

[buggyto]

the Buggy ( 955i motor) would do the same thing, all weird stuff, main reason injector clog, the three of them, start the bike and check the exhaust temp after few sec not minutes they should be all the same, just my 2 cents.