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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I did some searching and reading on the board before I ventured into the replacement of my air filter. I found some good input a piece at a time by viewing several threads. With all the info I found I was able to go about replacing the air filter with some newly found confidence.

I am in the habit of taking pictures of anything that I am about to take apart and work on so that when it comes time to put it all back together I have a good idea of how it should look. My memory is not as good as it once was and I am thinking that I should maybe start taking pictures of tools as I put them down, so I can find them again when I need them. :)

So I thought that it might help anyone here on the board that is thinking about changing out there air filter on a 2000 sprint RS if I posted a step by step with pictures. (I like pictures. they seem to help more). So here it goes.


What I did was went for a long ride and then did all the work at night in the cool air. From what I read here on the board, the fuel tank had a tendency to shrink in heat (ie: sun). I disconnected the battery and then undid the bolts on the tank, front and back. Two near the seat and the one by the neck. Then I undid the bolts on the side fairing. pulled the fairings away from the tank. view picture.

In the picture you will see arrows that are numbered. Hose #1 i took off first and then hose two, then the wires three, then the last hose four. There was another set of wires (circled in red) that I left connected and than placed the tank on the back of the bike were the seat was. I then undid the four screws that hold in the air filter and pulled the old air filter out (full of sand) and replaced it with the new filter.

I did notice that the two breather hoses were missing (circled in red). So I do believe that there sould be two small hoses there? is that correct? question directed to the brains on the board with experience with this. Ok if I missed some thing please add anything that I might have forgot. This was my first time doing this and putting it all back together went very smooth and the best part was that, when it was all back together "IT STARTED AND RAN GREAT" YAHOo... lol.


hope this helps some one.

Shawn

Oh ya. I forgot to ask those who might know. I have circled (with red)two bolt holes on the air filter box that are missing the screws. Is there suppose to be screws there?
 

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Yep. Those two hoses should be there. One of them is the filler cap vent, and small amounts of gasoline might make its way through there if you spill when you fill. Without the hoses gas would dribble onto the engine there. Probably not a big deal. I can't remember what the other one is for.

Its been awhile since I took my tank off, but I don't recall there being anything screwed into those two embedded nuts that you circled.
 

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Check and see if the hoses have fallen down inside the frame. Two small vacuum-hose-type hoses, that both end pointing at the graound, just in front of the left swingarm pivot.

One is the 'scupper drain', which drains the fuel spilled on top of the filler neck, and the other is the 'tipover' valve line.

Make sure you route the hoses so you do not put any pressure on the Red fitting or hose it is on.

I'm concerned that you may have a small leak at the rear corner of the fuel pump assembly, as it looks 'wet'. Check the torque (which isn't much; they are just 'tight') on all the mounting bolts. Look closely at the return (Red) fitting and female, to see if something is loose, if an o-ring is nicked, or if the female fitting is cracked. The last is a very common occurrence.

One more thing - Good God, man! Don't balance your tank on the bike (or anywhere else)! Disconnect the pump and fuel sender wiring, and set the tank somewhere soft, safe, and very close to the ground!

And, while it's off, check the drain plugs for mung. And, the fuel filter is supposed to be changed at 24K, I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
One more thing - Good God, man! Don't balance your tank on the bike (or anywhere else)! Disconnect the pump and fuel sender wiring, and set the tank somewhere soft, safe, and very close to the ground!
:D

I knew that one was coming. I wasnt all that comfortable doing that either. the pump and fuel sender wiring was giving me troubles when I tried to disconnect them. Yes i did notice the leakage and did have my concerns about that. Thank you for the in put about checking the torque. All I have to go off of right now is a 05 sprint ST manual. so I had a rough idea of the rerouting of those two hoses.

Thanks again pushr0d and Diderich for your comments. It helps as I am new to the bike.
 

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To me it looks like the fuel fitting has been seeping a bit. That fitting in particular is well know for breaking. Most dealers have that fitting in stock and there are aftermarket metal replacements. IMO if it were my bike I would swap that out before I put many more miles on it.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To me it looks like the fuel fitting has been seeping a bit. That fitting in particular is well know for breaking. Most dealers have that fitting in stock and there are aftermarket metal replacements. IMO if it were my bike I would swap that out before I put many more miles on it.

Rick
Right on. hey thanks a LOT for saying something about that. I am planning a trip in June to see my kid born. First kid. so I am trying get as much looked after on my bike as possible before I hit the road.
 

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To me it looks like the fuel fitting has been seeping a bit. That fitting in particular is well know for breaking. Most dealers have that fitting in stock and there are aftermarket metal replacements. IMO if it were my bike I would swap that out before I put many more miles on it.

Rick
Heck, that's a recall, they may do it for free.
 

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Heck, that's a recall, they may do it for free.
No it's NOT a recall! I don't know how many times people misquote this recall.

The ONLY fittings that are covered by the recall are the MALE fittings - and both of those are already obviously metal from the OP's pictures.
If you want metal fittings on the female dry-break parts that is on your own nickel.

The one in the pump assembly can be a real pain to replace - it will undoubtedly snap off when you try to remove it.
That makes getting the rest of it out not fun. (the thread sealer that is used for installing these - comes already on the replacment OEM Triumph plastic fitting) is like epoxy once set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
DEcosse thanks for clarifying that. so if by trying to tighten it I might brake the seal? Messing with it might lead to more problems?
 

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DEcosse thanks for clarifying that. so if by trying to tighten it I might brake the seal? Messing with it might lead to more problems?
I've seen reports that for some it came out relatively clean - mine was like it glued in.
I wouldn't mess with it unless you have another one ready at hand to replace and then have the tools ready at your disposal to remove the stub if it breaks and clean up the thread. I had to drill mine out then clean the remaining plastic out with a tap.

One area that it might be leaking from however is simply the rubber o-ring on the end of the male fitting - it's certainly worth replacing that as that could be the source of the external leak. Leaks/cracks on the fitting itself tend to be more catastrophic which makes me suspect the o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah I dont think that I will mess with it right now. maybe down the road. The O ring is a good suggestion, I'll do that.
 
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