Hi i just recently bought my triumph. im only nineteen years old an didnt have enough money to buy a brand new bike so i found this one. i had to replace the throttle cabel. and in doing so i have messed up my fuel pump or fuel lines or something. theres two maine lines that stick out of the tank an either i broke the plastic adapter that sticks out of the fuel pump or i just donnt know how too hook the gas lines back to the fuel pump. because they stick in the adapters a lil bit . and the top adapter just spins around in place like its a stripped out screw the gas might be leaking between the tank and the edge og the adapter. if you have any ideas please help i have no clue what to do an there is no dealer very close either.
2000 Daytona 9551 fuel pump problems Please help!
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Submissions are now being taken for MAY TRIUMPH OF THE MONTH
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The fuel connectors need to be replaced with metal ones asap! If fuel is leaking, siphon the gas out of the tank, remove it and have the fittings replaced at the Triumph dealer. they are covered under an open ended safety recall. Also, clean the fuel off the frame, as it will turn the nice grey paint brown. Happened to a friend of mine.
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Yes you can change them yourself, but get a dealer to order the replacements and make sure they don't charge you. As mentioned a recall should take care of it. Actually a dealer should do the repair for free also. It sounds as though you are not very comfortable with the mechanics of the bike and maybe you should have someone more confident do the work. Changing them is really very simple and straight forward. I would also suggest you get a hold of a workshop manual to do your own work or to at least familiarize yourself with your new machine. If you do the replacement yourself be careful not to nick the o rings on the fittings when trying to hook them to the tank or you'll be replacing the o rings. The clamps on the fuel lines are also kind of a bugger to get snapped in place. From what I remember you get new clamps with the new fittings. If you were in Illinois I'd do it for you or at least show you how. Good luck and ask questions if needed. Feel free to pm me if you need anything.
TT
TT
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I have broke the female connector several times, not that hard to replace but it is frustrating when they break.
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Let's make sure we are not creating confusion here!
The female fittings in the fuel pump are plastic and NOT covered by recall - only the male fittings on the hoses are replaceable by recall with metal ones.
There are after-market replacement kits for all-metal, but not directly from OEM triumph.
If the male fittings are already metal, then recall has been done. It's unlikely you could break these (if metal) although o-rings could leak.
Now - can you clarify what you think is broken?
When you insert the male into the female dry-break, just push it firm until it seats fully and 'click's the locking tab into place. If you can pull them apart again without pressing the release tab, it is not fully engaged.
I cannot believe that the female would turn without breaking completely off (or could even be cracked) as gas would already be spewing out. The male will rotate slightly within the female, even when it is fully engaged.
If you have a camera, can you take & post a picture please.
The female fittings in the fuel pump are plastic and NOT covered by recall - only the male fittings on the hoses are replaceable by recall with metal ones.
There are after-market replacement kits for all-metal, but not directly from OEM triumph.
If the male fittings are already metal, then recall has been done. It's unlikely you could break these (if metal) although o-rings could leak.
Now - can you clarify what you think is broken?
When you insert the male into the female dry-break, just push it firm until it seats fully and 'click's the locking tab into place. If you can pull them apart again without pressing the release tab, it is not fully engaged.
I cannot believe that the female would turn without breaking completely off (or could even be cracked) as gas would already be spewing out. The male will rotate slightly within the female, even when it is fully engaged.
If you have a camera, can you take & post a picture please.
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As I re-read you defined problem, are you saying the top female one in the pump, the return, is rotating and potentially leaking?
Is it leaking from the thread area, or through the fitting?
(if it stops leaking when the male is fully inserted, then it is only the dry-break seal that is bad - only a problem for maintenance but does not affect normal operation)
If the former, then possibly it is indeed broken.
If the latter, this is not atypical as the dry-break o-ring can shrink over time and not seal closed when disconnected. However in this instance, it makes no difference when its actually connected.
These fittings are not trivial to replace - but not impossible either.
The first thing that happens is that they will break the heads off completely when you try to remove it. Then it will have to be drilled out & all the plastic threads & sealant goo cleaned out with the BSP tap.
My advice would be that if it is NOT broken, leave it alone.
If you do have one broken, repair that one as you have no option - based on your level of success and work required to replace it, then you can decide if you want to do the other as a preventive measure.
Is it leaking from the thread area, or through the fitting?
(if it stops leaking when the male is fully inserted, then it is only the dry-break seal that is bad - only a problem for maintenance but does not affect normal operation)
If the former, then possibly it is indeed broken.
If the latter, this is not atypical as the dry-break o-ring can shrink over time and not seal closed when disconnected. However in this instance, it makes no difference when its actually connected.
These fittings are not trivial to replace - but not impossible either.
The first thing that happens is that they will break the heads off completely when you try to remove it. Then it will have to be drilled out & all the plastic threads & sealant goo cleaned out with the BSP tap.
My advice would be that if it is NOT broken, leave it alone.
If you do have one broken, repair that one as you have no option - based on your level of success and work required to replace it, then you can decide if you want to do the other as a preventive measure.
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If you do have to remove a broken female connector be careful not to damage the metal plate it is in.
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