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Hello there,

I have an Adventurer with a broken gear selector shaft - it says in the manual that i have got to remove the engine and split the crankcases to change it for the new one i have purchased - is this true?

Would it be possible to change the gear selector shaft by going in through the sump?

Any help would be much appreciated as the bill for removal of the engine and a complete strip and rebuild is going to be quite high as you can imagine.

cheers all

Pip
 

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Have just found other threads

Hi All,

me again, having now signed up i was able to find the other threads regarding this (fairly common) issue.

Can i just say want an excellent resource this site is - the dealer was going to charge me a fortune!

I will be going round my friends with a few beers and some sky hooks and give it a go.

many many thanks to the forum.

cheers

Pip
 

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Shifter Shaft

Just a hint! To prevent the shifter shaft breaking (if the bike falls over to the left) before you replace the gear lever on the shaft undertake the following. Weaken the lever by drilling a 5.5 hole partially through it 25mm from the leading end. Do this in a drill press and vice after having wrapped the lever in solid cardboard to prevent marking and of course, drill from the engine side of the lever. The drill should be set so as to prevent the bit emerging from the lever. Some I have seen have used a hacksaw cut at the same point that goes approx. halfway through the lever. The former method is more tidy.
The lever is 'over engineered' and can easily accept either of these two 'weakening' operations without comprimising the inherent strength of it.
 

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I actually think the gear lever is already pretty weak, it's made of crap metal and mine had an unnoticeable crack in it until it broke off at a fairly critical point of riding.


I believe it is possible to go thru the sump for the main shaft, I haven't searched but somewhere in my memory there is a full explanation from someone who has already done this. It's fiddly but the guy didn't have to split the case.

I'm a bit pushed for time at the moment but try a search, and post the link. If you can't find it I'll try.


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Ride on ! :)
 

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I believe it is possible to go thru the sump for the main shaft, I haven't searched but somewhere in my memory there is a full explanation from someone who has already done this. It's fiddly but the guy didn't have to split the case.

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Ride on ! :)
In the link below a few people describe how they did the shifter shaft surgery through the sump and also offer alternatives:

http://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-classic-triples/70940-help-broken-shifter.html?highlight=gear+shaft

Rick
 

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Why the shifter shaft breaks

Is because the actual gear change lever can, in most instances, take the complete weight of the bike if it so falls on it. Something has to give, it is generally not the lever, but the shaft, hence the reason given above for the 5.5mm drill into the lever to in effect, weaken it. The lever is exceptionally strong, that is why there are no reports of it having break on a drop (that I know of), but the gear change shaft will!!!!
 

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Am still dubious LC about the strength of the lever, they're NZ$110 of overpriced light alloy, I think it is difficult though to break the lever or the shaft in an ordinary slow bike drop. It would take a crash in my opinion.

Thanks for the link Rick, how would you like to be the Forums Official Searcher, that's the second link you've found this week ! :D


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Ride on ! :)


p.s. I've just read the link and it appears quite a lot of guys have dropped their bikes and broken the shaft so I will stand corrected there. Maybe the '98's were a good model as only my lever broke but I did it in reverse, the lever broke and I dropped the bike ! :D
 

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I think it is difficult though to break the lever or the shaft in an ordinary slow bike drop. It would take a crash in my opinion.
I've seen a guy do it, a low speed turn at next to no speed and the shaft snapped off clean. The shaft is prety thin in diameter compared to the lever's bulk.
 

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I've seen a guy do it, a low speed turn at next to no speed and the shaft snapped off clean. The shaft is prety thin in diameter compared to the lever's bulk.
When I had my Adventurer the bike tipped over in my driveway at a stand still. My fault as I had it idling on a slight slope with the bike pointing downward. The gear shaft snapped. And that was at a standstill.
 

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I've seen a guy do it, a low speed turn at next to no speed and the shaft snapped off clean. The shaft is prety thin in diameter compared to the lever's bulk.
Seen a guy do it too - ME :p

Forgot the put the stand back down while working on the bike's side stand switch, and stepped right off, dropping it and breaking the darned shaft clean off at the detent.

For me, it was a good excuse to convert to rear sets :D
 

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OK I'm convinced, there's enough of you guys broken your gear shaft to warrant opening up a special factory, so in the meantime I've put the thread fix to the problem into the Maintenance Tips and Tricks for T3 Classic Forum so it will be handy.


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Ride on ! :)
 

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Working with the shaft stub and avoid splitting engine

Unknown to me when i bought my salvage Legend, the shifter shaft was broken at the point were the mount screw passes next to the shaft. found out while driving when the shifter fell away.

I took a piece of 1/2 flat steel 2" long by 2"wide, drilled stepped holes to fit the smooth part of the shaft and the remaining knurled part of the shaft. I then slotted it so that a through bolt would squeeze it on the shaft, drilled and tapped. When i was sure it fit securely, I removed it and welded on metal for the shift lever. The downside, it is hard to remove and hard to readjust the height of the lever. On the other hand, it cost me nothing and I didn't have to tear down the engine.

I can make a drawing of what I did and a photo of the mounted lever. I'm not taking it off for the sake of the photo. I've had the bike a year and driven it 20,000 miles without ever giving a thought to the shifter (except when I regeared it and had to remove the sprocket). And I made crash bars so it hasn't broken in a number of left hand crashes.

lemme know, [email protected] or use the website mail system.
 

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I took a piece of 1/2 flat steel 2" long by 2"wide, drilled stepped holes to fit the smooth part of the shaft and the remaining knurled part of the shaft. I then slotted it so that a through bolt would squeeze it on the shaft, drilled and tapped. When i was sure it fit securely, I removed it and welded on metal for the shift lever.
Wow, that sounds like quite a contraption, toller! :eek:

I just took a cobalt drill bit, drilled out the center of the remaining shaft, tapped the hole #10/24 , and screwed in a socket head cap screw with a threaded knob attached. When you tighten down the bolt, the knob pushes the shifter shaft onto the rest of the spline and serves as a keeper.

Don't have this any more, since I went to the rear sets though....
 

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good idea

Wow, that sounds like quite a contraption, toller! :eek:

I just took a cobalt drill bit, drilled out the center of the remaining shaft, tapped the hole #10/24 , and screwed in a socket head cap screw with a threaded knob attached. When you tighten down the bolt, the knob pushes the shifter shaft onto the rest of the spline and serves as a keeper.

Don't have this any more, since I went to the rear sets though....
If mine ever gets wobbly, i'll go your route. Did you go with a hardened 10/24 or figure better the threads on the screw crumble than in the shaft?

hey, wait a minute. Rear sets require a link to the shifter, too. Waddaya trying to pull?
 

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PIPM,
One thing to check when you replace the shifter shaft is the pin that locates the return spring. The new part I bought had that pin on the wrong side of the plate. I had to take it out after I had installed it and drive the pin to the other side so it would engage the spring. A quick check would have saved me a couple of hours. Just match it to the old part.
 

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hey, wait a minute. Rear sets require a link to the shifter, too. Waddaya trying to pull?
The remaining portion of the shaft is working fine in that application. The linkage puts a steady radial load on shaft. With a direct connected shifter, you experience a considerable side load from your foot being in contact, and this variable loading results in the shifter working off over time.

I applied a little 680 Loctite to the linkage connector, which helps it to hold. It has worked fine for the past 5000 miles. I carry a small tube of Loctite in my tool kit just in case, but with the linkage, you don't have to worry about losing the shifter!

I was using a standard bolt, you really are putting much of a load on it. The load still goes to the spline, the bolt is just a keeper. I held it in place with a little blue loctite. The threads in the shaft are a challenge to tap! Go very slowly...
 

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toller's highly modified Legend TT

Pictures, drawings....?
A number of left hand crashes? :D

Rick
there are photos of my bike under heavily modified Hinkleys, mine is the last bike added.

Yes, several leftside slides. Once making a u turn with a bit o gravel at just the wrong place, i slide sideways 5 feet, the bike went 10 feet or so. Glad it was well away from me.

Then the really unbelievable one. Driving down I44 freeway , 5 lanes each way in st. louis, zipped around a slow moving bomb of a pickup, cut back into the lane and just touched the brakes to slow down to traffice speed and hit something slick, antifreeze? never knew, and suddenly I am driving down the road sideways. i cannot figure it out, death grip on the bars, vibrating rough, i'm sliding the crash bar and the krauser saddlebag on that side, me inbetween, my left side touching tarmac. when I came to a stop, i was in a sprinter stance to dash for the curb before being pureed. that old ratty pickup truck had stopped about 100 feet behind me and was sending traffic a lane over. Talk about greatful. I turned off the bike and shut off the gas;, another fellow came and helped me pick it up and roll it to the curb. A gal ran up, said she saw it all and asked me if I wanted an ambulance, but i couldn't feel any injuries. I thought about it for several minutes in case adrenalyn was masking the injuries, but none. The left side of my Kilamanjaro jacket sleeve is all ground up with holes through to the elbow pads (motocross type i installed) and the first gear patch on the should is now blank. My fieldshier winter overpants were ground through at the knee to the knee pads and holes along the left side ankle, and a few scrapes on my helmet. The bike: flat spot ground into the crashbars. I'm very proud of those, i welded them myself. The handlbars put a small dent in the tank. My clear windshield was scraped and the lower left side broken. lost , and my left mirror was scraped along the top. That's it. Oh, the krauser was toast; would have been okay but its hit the ground before and been hit by a car, too. I'd had it a good 20 years so it was time for a replacment.

thats my big slide; lucky not to tumble, lucky to stay with the bike. No hand scrapes as i was holding the handlbars until the bike slide ahead of me and friction pulled me off. Didn't make me more cautious, i don't know what happened so what's there to fix? I often wear protective gear, but now I always do.
 

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there are photos of my bike under heavily modified Hinkleys, mine is the last bike added.

Then the really unbelievable one. ... The bike: flat spot ground into the crashbars. I'm very proud of those, i welded them myself.

... I often wear protective gear, but now I always do.
Wow!

You must have done a great job adapting the Honda 750 bars to your bike because they sure protected not only the shifter but the whole side of the bike (and the rider).

By the way, nice photos. I like the notes pointing to all the modifications.

Rick
 
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