Instructions for a "canisterectomy" in the file below courtesy of member GaryD (Gary Duncan):
http://www.triumphrat.net/downloads/EVLS.pdf
http://www.triumphrat.net/downloads/EVLS.pdf
2 Questions: Cali Evap removal & Carb cross-bridge
This is actually something I posted in a different area, because I was researching on this topic, but I am going to ask the question here, since this is where the question really belongs.
I am a newbie to Bonneville, carbs, etc. This forum has been great reading for the last 2 weeks, and I am sure many many more to come.
Back to topic...
I just got my 06 Bonneville T100, and I realize that my bike already has this carb crossover hose connection between the two carbs. Also the hose is actually a T fitting with the third connection from the two carbs going to the evaporator can under the bike. My bike is a Cali model. Do all Cali bike came like this?
The previous owner has done AI removal on it. But the evaporator is not removed. So I am not sure if the carb balance crossover hose is just something that was added.
I am thinking about removing the crossover hose and balance the carb so they work well without the crossover hose.
Any thoughts??
Part 2.
I went out and looked at all the hoses again, and I find out that there are a lot of hoses going to the evaporator/canister.
1. The carb bridge has T fitting & is connect to the evaporator
2. carb vent hose also have T fitting, one side open, one side to the evaporator, and one to the hard pipe connecting the 2 carbs.
3. The right side vacuum port, currently connected to the evaporator as well
4. the left side vacuum port is already plugged, the previous own had done AI removal.
So, I am planning to:
1. remove the evaporator
2. Remove the carb bridge, and Cap the 2 ports.
3. Cap the right vacuum port.
4. Leave the carb vent hose open (it is open right now, the previous owner left it that way)
Hope it will go well, I probably will do #2,3,4 with evaporator in place, just in case the bike starts to run funny, then I can connect the hoses back to the evaporator. If all is well, I will remove the can.
Any suggestion? or if I have made a incorrect assumption anywhere?
I am a newbie to Bonneville, carbs, etc. This forum has been great reading for the last 2 weeks, and I am sure many many more to come.
Back to topic...
I just got my 06 Bonneville T100, and I realize that my bike already has this carb crossover hose connection between the two carbs. Also the hose is actually a T fitting with the third connection from the two carbs going to the evaporator can under the bike. My bike is a Cali model. Do all Cali bike came like this?
The previous owner has done AI removal on it. But the evaporator is not removed. So I am not sure if the carb balance crossover hose is just something that was added.
I am thinking about removing the crossover hose and balance the carb so they work well without the crossover hose.
Any thoughts??
Part 2.
I went out and looked at all the hoses again, and I find out that there are a lot of hoses going to the evaporator/canister.
1. The carb bridge has T fitting & is connect to the evaporator
2. carb vent hose also have T fitting, one side open, one side to the evaporator, and one to the hard pipe connecting the 2 carbs.
3. The right side vacuum port, currently connected to the evaporator as well
4. the left side vacuum port is already plugged, the previous own had done AI removal.
So, I am planning to:
1. remove the evaporator
2. Remove the carb bridge, and Cap the 2 ports.
3. Cap the right vacuum port.
4. Leave the carb vent hose open (it is open right now, the previous owner left it that way)
Hope it will go well, I probably will do #2,3,4 with evaporator in place, just in case the bike starts to run funny, then I can connect the hoses back to the evaporator. If all is well, I will remove the can.
Any suggestion? or if I have made a incorrect assumption anywhere?
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Forchetto, yup, I printed it out. I will be using that as reference. My question is still around the carb balance bridge, but I guess I will just give it a try and and see.
There are benefits on some twin engines with having a balance pipe fitted between the carbs. Why not remove all the other stuff first leaving the bridge in place, then see how the bike runs. Then having a base point to work from, remove the bridge and see if you wish to keep it that way or having noticed a possible loss in benefits of having it fitted, you may wish to refit it.
Back in the late 70's members of my local Guzzi club were having a carb interconnect made for their bikes which steadied the tickover and allowed some of the petrol which bounced back up the inlet tract to be sucked into the other cylinder. Petrol could be seen shuttling back and forth along the clear plastic pipe which was used. Fuel consumtion improved slightly as well.
However engine design having evolved slightly over the last 40 yrs may mean there are no benefits whatsoever of having the bridge in place on your particular engine.
Back in the late 70's members of my local Guzzi club were having a carb interconnect made for their bikes which steadied the tickover and allowed some of the petrol which bounced back up the inlet tract to be sucked into the other cylinder. Petrol could be seen shuttling back and forth along the clear plastic pipe which was used. Fuel consumtion improved slightly as well.
However engine design having evolved slightly over the last 40 yrs may mean there are no benefits whatsoever of having the bridge in place on your particular engine.
So, just did everything...
I end up capping all 4 of the vacuum ports and with no problem. I did not remove the EVAP cans, just going to leave them there for now.
The carbs was only off a little bit and since this is the first time I am syncing the carb, it took me awhile... But worked! Have not notice any significant changes in the performance area, I guess because the carbs were that far off.
I also checked the valve clearance, they were ALL on the wide size, all about 1 feeler gauge or roughly .02mm or .03mm beyond the clearance. I did not feel like taking the cam out and messing with the shims, so I put everything back for now, I will probably end up taking it to the dealer for that. Just don't feel like doing the valve clearance and have to search for the right size shims.
Great info on this forum!
I end up capping all 4 of the vacuum ports and with no problem. I did not remove the EVAP cans, just going to leave them there for now.
The carbs was only off a little bit and since this is the first time I am syncing the carb, it took me awhile... But worked! Have not notice any significant changes in the performance area, I guess because the carbs were that far off.
I also checked the valve clearance, they were ALL on the wide size, all about 1 feeler gauge or roughly .02mm or .03mm beyond the clearance. I did not feel like taking the cam out and messing with the shims, so I put everything back for now, I will probably end up taking it to the dealer for that. Just don't feel like doing the valve clearance and have to search for the right size shims.
Great info on this forum!
I left the tube from the crossover - it goes up vertically - connected to the "tee" but took off the two tubes from the T to the canister. I have this tube and T tucked up under the frame spine, more as weather proofing. I removed the canister [Honda brand???] and put genuine Triumph caps on the carburettors, after using car prts store cheapos which really suck. OEM caps are BEEFY!Forchetto, yup, I printed it out. I will be using that as reference. My question is still around the carb balance bridge, but I guess I will just give it a try and and see.
But hey, don't you need that stuff in California?
Right, that is kinda what I did.
I did not touch the vent hose, left that one along, since there are people on the forum that ran into issues with that plugged.
I cap the bridge, and removed the hose, but I did not remove the canister. I might end up removing them when I do oil change and chain in a few month.
I did not touch the vent hose, left that one along, since there are people on the forum that ran into issues with that plugged.
I cap the bridge, and removed the hose, but I did not remove the canister. I might end up removing them when I do oil change and chain in a few month.
I left the tube from the crossover - it goes up vertically - connected to the "tee" but took off the two tubes from the T to the canister. I have this tube and T tucked up under the frame spine, more as weather proofing. I removed the canister [Honda brand???] and put genuine Triumph caps on the carburettors, after using car prts store cheapos which really suck. OEM caps are BEEFY!
But hey, don't you need that stuff in California?
The carb vents on earlier models (non CA) did not have a hose connected to the "Tee". Later, Mr. T decided to fix what was not broken and added a hose to the "Tee" on the non CA models (I haven't kept up with the CA models). What that hose has done for a few is cause some problems in strong cross-winds. Those having this problem reported the problem went away when the hose was shortened or removed. My '03 has never had a hose on the vent "tee". Plugging the carb vents results in carb flooding as a few who removed the CA canister and just plugged off all the tubes found out the hard way.
After riding with and without the bridge for 2 tankful, I decided to put the bridge back, the bike actually runs better with the bridge in place, just more "smooth" in my opinion. The carbs are synced. So the bridge will stay.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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