Yes, and you might have to re-route the harness which is routed around the oil cooler fixings. A thread with the same problem on the same type of exhaust is running right now a little further up the page:
Thanks for the quick reply, I am thinking of splicing about 6-8 inches of wire to keep the connectors under the tank. Although I not too keen on two splices per wire, I will be using Raychem enviromental splices.
Use crimped splices rather than soldering the wires.
Older style oxygen sensors actually have a small hole in the body shell so air can enter the sensor, they need a tiny amount of outside air to compare with the gases inside the pipes, but newer style O2 sensors "breathe" through their wire connectors and have no vent hole.
It's hard to believe, but the tiny amount of space between the insulation and wire provides enough room for air to seep into the sensor (for this reason, grease should never be used on O2 sensor connectors because it can block the flow of air). Venting the sensor through the wires rather than with a hole in the body reduces the risk of dirt or water contamination that could foul the sensor from the inside and cause it to fail. The difference in oxygen levels between the exhaust and outside air within the sensor causes voltage to flow through the ceramic bulb. The greater the difference, the higher the voltage reading.
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