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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 99 955i I rescued from a barn. I repaired the wiring harness, which had been shredded by mice. Everything rang out point to point. I powered up the bike and did not hear the fuel pump energize. I hit the button, starter turned, oil light and headlights went dark, but no start. I jumpered 12 vdc to the pump connection, pump energized and ran continuously.
I tried the button, no fire, which didn't surprise me as the same power to the fuel pump goes to the coils. There is continuity to the coils and fuel pump from the relays. I opened the gas cap, no whoosh as expected if the system had pressurized.
I hooked up my Foxwell OBD tool and it did not see the ecu. I hooked up a Geartronix reader which is usually reliable, and got the same result. I ordered TuneEcu and a cable and got the same result. I bought a used ECU on ebay and got the same results with all 3 readers.
I traced (again) all the wiring to/from the ECU to the relays. All relays have 13.2 vdc, all signal wires have continuity. Ground to ECU is good. Every circuit which does not involve the ECU works perfectly. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm kinda stumped. Thanks
 

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If you can show the wiring diagram I'll take a look.
 

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Do you have a neutral light on?
Is the side stand switch fitted - have you tried with the side-stand up (which would disregard neutral switch issues)
His bike turns over though which wouldn't happen I imagine with a clutch/neutral/sidestand switch issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry guys, I have been down with the flu, even after a shot. The neutral light is lit, the side stand is up. I did notice that the fuel pump is now priming on its own. It does not sound as robust as I seem to remember my 2001 being, and there is still no vacuum when I open the gas cap. I wonder if the pump internals are gummed up.
I had removed the fuel plate to check the conditions after being empty for so long. There was very little varnish, the filter sleeve was in great shape, and I sprayed it down with new fuel, wiped out the crooks and nannies and sealed it back up.
The ECM relay appears to feed the fuel pump relay, which also energizes the coils. There is a separate signal to each coil which makes me believe that each one has not failed. The ignition control fuse is good.
I just tried the bike in gear, with the clutch pulled in. The starter turned, no fire. I put it back in neutral, and it would not turn over without the clutch pulled in, whereas it had been fine a minute before.
It seems as tho the starter motor is not turning over very quickly, even with a back up battery in line. I understand the sprag sounds like a box of rocks, which this does not.

It just gets weirder.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry guys, I have been down with the flu, even after a shot. The neutral light is lit, the side stand is up. I did notice that the fuel pump is now priming on its own. It does not sound as robust as I seem to remember my 2001 being, and there is still no vacuum when I open the gas cap. I wonder if the pump internals are gummed up.
I had removed the fuel plate to check the conditions after being empty for so long. There was very little varnish, the filter sleeve was in great shape, and I sprayed it down with new fuel, wiped out the crooks and nannies and sealed it back up.
The ECM relay appears to feed the fuel pump relay, which also energizes the coils. There is a separate signal to each coil which makes me believe that each one has not failed. The ignition control fuse is good.
I just tried the bike in gear, with the clutch pulled in. The starter turned, no fire. I put it back in neutral, and it would not turn over without the clutch pulled in, whereas it had been fine a minute before.
It seems as tho the starter motor is not turning over very quickly, even with a back up battery in line. I understand the sprag sounds like a box of rocks, which this does not. I also noticed the MIL stays on, even when the oil light goes out during cranking.

It just gets weirder.
 

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Sorry youre feeling so rough, just what you need while working on a bike in the winter.
I would be ok diagnosing electrical problems with you (and the diagram) but I don't have any first hand knowledge of this age of bike so hopefully others with the same bike may help.
With the fuel pump now running did you check the alarm/immobiliser blanking plug if you have one for intermittent faults, make sure any links are secure.
I may be wrong but usually if the ECU is allowing the starter to run it expects the bike to start, I don't think it would activate the starter but not the fuel pump or ignition for example.
Is it possible that the wiring is a red herring and the non starting is due to the amount of time the bikes been standing, when did it last run?
Is it worth checking the plugs, could see if your getting a spark at the same time while cranking.
Is there any way to safely disconnect a fuel line and then turn on the ignition to see if your getting good pressure?
Don't know what to suggest about the slow cranking apart from maybe trying a car battery, don't know much about the sprag, hear about it a lot on here though.
Sorry I can't be any more help
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the reply. It seems to me that if there were spark at the plugs, the first combustion cycle would spin the motor enough to sustain itself. Since there's voltage at the coils, it would seem the problem lies in the pulse being absent. I will pull the tank to look at the plugs, and do a little research on what signals the coils to fire.
 

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Again I'm guessing a bit here but a problem with the CPS would stop the bike firing (crank position sensor), you can usually check them with a multimeter if you do a search online.
I'm guessing with that age of bike the coils will be triggered directly from the ECU, like I said if there is any ECU control over the starter solenoid I can't imagine the ECU would trigger the starter but not fire the coils or the injectors, there will be no point, although it could happen with a faulty CPS as it doesn't know when to fire the ignition or fuel.
 

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Checking plugs would be my next move, see how they look. I would be curious to see if fuel is reaching the chambers. Normally I would expect that the fuel system would need to e gone over with a fine toothed comb for a bike that has been sitting. But the ECU not registering is also a concern. I have noted that on my 2001 that TuneECU tends to be a bit slow to pick up on the bike when I get everything plugged in, and if I do things in the wrong order it wont register at all. (maybe it's the cheep laptop I use too) Maybe take a little bit of gasoline in a spray bottle and mist the throttle body openings while turning it over to see if it fires at all (old school with the exciting risks of blowing yourself up involved). Either way, get back to basics Fuel, air, spark, and timing...
 

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.... there is still no vacuum when I open the gas cap.
That reads as though you are expecting a vacuum to be the normal situation - You would not expect there to be vacuum as the tank is vented (via one of the two hoses at the rear left of tank) - if you DID have a vacuum, then THAT would be a problem, not the other way around

I just tried the bike in gear, with the clutch pulled in. The starter turned, no fire. I put it back in neutral, and it would not turn over without the clutch pulled in, whereas it had been fine a minute before.
The clutch should always be pulled in to run the starter, regardless of whether in neutral or not
On the very early 97's it used to work where when it was in neutral it was not necessary to pull clutch but I don't believe it to be the case with your model year.
The neutral in the early case was not controlling the starter via the ECU (unlike the ability for pump & coils to run) but simply provided a normally-closed ground (via the neutral switch) at the clutch switch; and with lever pulled, that 'ground' is via the normally open clutch switch pole directly to ground.
If you are saying that it definitely used to run starter (in neutral) WITHOUT pulling lever that would suggest you had the older scheme and that if it does not now, the neutral switch is bad (or more commonly, there is often a problem in the harness going to the bar switch about 9-12" down from the switch assembly there is a crimp that fails - this would only affect the starter operation, NOT the ability to fire and run)
Be sure you are not confusing your starter operation with another bike - my expectation on your model is that you should always require the clutch to be pulled.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good morning, all. I apologize for not replying earlier, but still illing. I rechecked the crank senor, which I read earlier at 500 ohms +/-. Haynes says 1.3 K, but I have read posts where 500 seems to be more common.

Now, I am reading 180+/- or open. I am going to drain the oil and see what's what. I will update before Derrick Henry crushes KC, and thanks again for the support.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Removed the CPS, no visible derangement. Pierced the wires at the sensor, still open. I hate an intermittent or a transient. Ordered a CPS. Doesn't explain the ECM being invisible, but one step at a time. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That reads as though you are expecting a vacuum to be the normal situation - You would not expect there to be vacuum as the tank is vented (via one of the two hoses at the rear left of tank) - if you DID have a vacuum, then THAT would be a problem, not the other way around


The clutch should always be pulled in to run the starter, regardless of whether in neutral or not
On the very early 97's it used to work where when it was in neutral it was not necessary to pull clutch but I don't believe it to be the case with your model year.
The neutral in the early case was not controlling the starter via the ECU (unlike the ability for pump & coils to run) but simply provided a normally-closed ground (via the neutral switch) at the clutch switch; and with lever pulled, that 'ground' is via the normally open clutch switch pole directly to ground.
If you are saying that it definitely used to run starter (in neutral) WITHOUT pulling lever that would suggest you had the older scheme and that if it does not now, the neutral switch is bad (or more commonly, there is often a problem in the harness going to the bar switch about 9-12" down from the switch assembly there is a crimp that fails - this would only affect the starter operation, NOT the ability to fire and run)
Be sure you are not confusing your starter operation with another bike - my expectation on your model is that you should always require the clutch to be pulled.
You are correct, sir. I misspoke when i said vacuum, it is actually the pressure equalizing when the tank is opened.
 
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