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Since you mentioned paint, here is my 79 T140E wearing its original paint. I have since sold the bike to a good friend of mine to finance another project. He really just wanted to own it, he doesn't ride much anymore. So if I ever get the itch, maybe I will own it again someday...
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Since you mentioned paint, here is my 79 T140E wearing its original paint. I have since sold the bike to a good friend of mine to finance another project. He really just wanted to own it, he doesn't ride much anymore. So if I ever get the itch, maybe I will own it again someday...
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Yes, definitely like the blue - does anyone have a list of stock colors for ‘79? I was working off an old brochure and it looked like they only had black/red, red/black, and beige/red (!). Yes, I can pick any color of course but interested to see what the stock options are.

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I'm not sure about all the options for 1979. I know there was blue with silver flash, and black w/silver. And maybe red w/ black? I owned a black and silver E model back in the mid 1980s. The T140D was the Bonneville Special in black w/gold pin striping, plus two into one exhaust, "stepped" seat and a different rear brake caliper configuration. I'm not sure if 1979 D models were offered in any other color than black for 1979. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Things are moving slowly forward with the project - my pile of parts that are cleaned and ready to go is almost as big as the pile of parts that still need attention! I've started sanding down the frame to get rid of rust and scratches.

One question on painting the frame - there were quite a few nuts and bolts that came off the frame that were painted black so wondering if the frame was painted with some of these parts installed? Side stand/spring, center stand/spring, peg mounts, etc. I'm not trying to create a 100% correct restoration by any stretch but curious how they were originally done. The other option would be they were painted after, I'm pretty sure it wasn't just a heavy coat of old oil/grease!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
First a question - does anyone know the stock spring length (1979 Bonneville)? I have 2 sets of springs that I thought were stock, but one is quite a bit shorter than the other. The longer ones stick out of the forks about an inch or so, the shorter ones are about level with the top of the forks.

I've put a coat of primer on the frame - mostly to give me an idea on where I still need some more work on sanding. I also started polishing the cases. Some of the dings are pretty deep so not sure how much more I'll do on these. Before and after example in the pic.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Glacial progress, but some progress at least. The frame, swing arm and triple are painted. At the first step I realized I lost one of the dust excluders for the swing arm so I might need to put it together without it and then take the swing arm off later to add it. My goal was to get to a rolling chassis by the end of the weekend.

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hi,

Sorry I missed this when you asked :oops: - 19.1", it's in the Triumph workshop manual.

Hth.

Regards,
Thanks - I’d found the specs somewhere online after I’d asked. Neither of the sets I have are 19.1! One is a bit less than an inch shorter and the other is a bit less than an inch longer. I’ll probably try the longer ones and see how they work for me.
 

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Hi,
Neither of the sets I have are 19.1! One is a bit less than an inch shorter
= shagged. (n)

the other is a bit less than an inch longer.
'71-on triples' springs are 19.5" long.

Longer than that are possibly (shagged?) Hurricane springs - Hurricanes had/have longer stanchions.

probably try the longer ones
If they're triple springs, you'll find 'em too hard. Regrettably, the '73-'78 twins workshop manual doesn't state the spring rate but the wire is thinner than triples' springs, which are 32.5 lb./in. (T150) or 35 lb./in. (T160).

Hth.

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The "alternate" set of springs turned out to be worse than I thought - one was quite a bit longer than the other, so still a mystery what they came from! I put in the shorter than spec springs for now just to keep moving and will look at replacement springs. Recommendations for/against the progressive springs?

This is pretty much where it sits right now, still plenty to do, but starting to look like a bike again! My goal this weekend is to get the wheels and associated parts on it so its a roller and then move on to the engine.

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Hi,
progressive springs
Recommendations for/against
Conical- and disc-brake forks, three bikes "for". (y) (y) (y)

Aside, pre-'71 and '71-'74 500's, mmm ... - the springs are much shorter than conical- and disc-brake springs; however, while pattern parts makers don't seem able to make standard springs the same length consistently, at least Progressive seem able to ... :cool:

Hth.

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Anyone have a rebuildable OEM caliper they want to sell? Long story, but my bike originally came with a non-OEM caliper (Girling knock off) installed in the rear and everything was hacked up to make it work. It also came with a poorly repaired OEM caliper (they'd put a course thread heli-coil instead of a fine thread help-coil!). I replaced the heli-coil but the bleed screw isn't sealing on the seat in the caliper. I moved the non-OEM caliper to the front so I could go back to stock for the rear, but the bottom of the caliper sticks down too much and it interferes with the fender support.

Slowly going back together, should have the engine back in this weekend.

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Hi,
non-OEM caliper (Girling knock off)
moved the non-OEM caliper to the front so I could go back to stock for the rear, but the bottom of the caliper sticks down too much and it interferes with the fender support.
Photo. of the problem? Because it shouldn't (interfere with the fender support). The "Girling" caliper you have is a knock-off of an AP Lockheed ally caliper; I've got three originals on one Triumph and they were bolt-on in place of the original steel ones on the same fork and fender parts as your bike.

Aside, the original Girling company was another British automotive industry components supplier and, while they did make disc-brake parts, they didn't supply anything to Triumph except rear suspension units. Otoh, "Girling" today is just another name pimped by Wassell on its Far Eastern low-wage-made components to bamboozle the less-informed into believing a non-existent historical connection. :mad:

Hth.

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Here you go. I suspect this is a cheap knock-off of the cheap knock-off (Girling) of the original AP…. Seems like a grinder on the bottom caliper ”ear” would take care of it but not ready to do that yet.

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Hi,
Seems like a grinder on the bottom caliper ”ear” would take care of it
Imho, don't; the problem isn't the caliper but the fender.

The fender's mounting holes to the brace between the sliders are too far towards the rear/bottom of the fender. So, when the fender's mounted on the brace, the rear/bottom of the fender, and the "fender support", are too high - the "fender support" on my bike passes well clear of the bottom of the Lockheed calipers with exactly the same "ear".

suspect this is a cheap knock-off of the cheap knock-off (Girling) of the original AP
Don't know of any only ones I know of are Grimeca and Wassell Girling - and afaik the latter have "GIRLING" cast on?

Just as a matter of interest, have you checked the dimensions of parts - mounting holes ID, hose/pipe threads, pistons ID? Reason I ask is I was wondering it might be a Grimeca? Years ago, somehow Grimeca were allowed to pattern the Lockheed caliper but 'metricate' it - mounting holes are 10 mm instead of 3/8", threads are M10x1.0 instead of 3/8"-24, piston OD is 41 mm. instead of 1-5/8". The current Grimecas look quite different but iirc the originals were very similar to the Lockheeds.

Hth.

Regards,
 
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