Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner
161 - 180 of 216 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
725 Posts
Did you make up those fuel lines yourself and what plastic fuel line is that? I'd have to shot blast those carb bodies, they look over wire-wheeled. :)
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,929 Posts
Hi Whisky,
new awesome petcock's
What type of male fitting will I need to make these work with my crossover line?
None.

Those sort of tap spigots, the hose should start a tight, slightly undersize, fit; I warm a hose end in a cup of boiling water and push on to the spigot; when the hose cools to ambient, it's a tight fit on the spigot. (y)

Hth.

Regards,
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #165 ·
Hi Whisky,

None.

Those sort of tap spigots, the hose should start a tight, slightly undersize, fit; I warm a hose end in a cup of boiling water and push on to the spigot; when the hose cools to ambient, it's a tight fit on the spigot. (y)

Hth.

Regards,
I'm talking about the other end??
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #172 · (Edited)
Hi,

Then I'm not clear. You asked:-


... any "line" will fit on the lower tap spigots.

Regards,
@StuartMac
If you look closely at my gas line setup it looks like the portion that fits on the spigots is an AN- type. However the spigot has no threads? Do I lop the AN- part off, or fashion a different section?

What rim/spoke/nipple setup please?
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,929 Posts
Hi Whisky,
If you look closely at my gas line setup it looks like the portion that fits on the spigots is an AN- type.
If you mean:-

... and the exposed tap threads screwed into the tank threads, both ends of the taps and the nuts on the 90-degree spigots have 1/4"BSP (British Standard Pipe) threads.

If you want to fit:-

... their threads into the tank must also be 1/4"BSP;

... in theory, you can just cut off the 90-degree spigots and their nuts, warm the cut ends of the hoses and push each on to one of the tap spigots; however, in practice, having cut off the 90-degree spigots, the hoses might not reach the new taps' spigots in the tank; :( then you'll need new hoses.

Will need a new rim
What rim/spoke/nipple setup please?
Depends what you want? I like polished aluminium rims without a "shoulder" or "valance" and stainless spokes.

Otoh, the rim in your photos looks pretty good?

View attachment 795145

What will you do with the disc, replace, or just skim to get rid of the chrome and the pits?

Hth.

Regards,
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #174 ·
Hi Whisky,

If you mean:-

... and the exposed tap threads screwed into the tank threads, both ends of the taps and the nuts on the 90-degree spigots have 1/4"BSP (British Standard Pipe) threads.

If you want to fit:-

... their threads into the tank must also be 1/4"BSP;

... in theory, you can just cut off the 90-degree spigots and their nuts, warm the cut ends of the hoses and push each on to one of the tap spigots; however, in practice, having cut off the 90-degree spigots, the hoses might not reach the new taps' spigots in the tank; :( then you'll need new hoses.



Depends what you want? I like polished aluminium rims without a "shoulder" or "valance" and stainless spokes.

Otoh, the rim in your photos looks pretty good?

View attachment 795145

What will you do with the disc, replace, or just skim to get rid of the chrome and the pits?



Hth.

Regards,
@StuartMac How many mil can be safely removed as right now I don't feel any ridge with my nail?
The rim is pitted and the spokes/nipples are frozen/seized? I don't what any integrity issues, also I want a nice polished look on everything!
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,929 Posts
Hi Whisky,
Depends how long the bike's sat unused? If the bearings aren't expensive, it'd be a bit of a pisser not to do 'em, start to ride the bike, find the wheel bearings are donald, you've got to take the wheels out again to do 'em? :cool:

19", front and 18" rear, correct?
(y)

Btw, if you're changing the rims, the bike, the tyres and the tyre companies will love you if you go one size wider on each rim = 2.15 (WM3 equivalent) on the front, 2.50 (WM4 equivalent) on the rear.

Hth.

Regards,
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #177 ·
Hi Whisky,

Depends how long the bike's sat unused? If the bearings aren't expensive, it'd be a bit of a pisser not to do 'em, start to ride the bike, find the wheel bearings are donald, you've got to take the wheels out again to do 'em? :cool:


(y)

Btw, if you're changing the rims, the bike, the tyres and the tyre companies will love you if you go one size wider on each rim = 2.15 (WM3 equivalent) on the front, 2.50 (WM4 equivalent) on the rear.

Hth.

Regards,
@StuartMac 4 yrs...
Is there a quick way to un-assemble the seized rims easily? I think. I have the tool sitting around to undo the bearing nut. Also what about turning the discs?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #178 · (Edited)
@StuartMac,
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,929 Posts
Hi Whisky,
As in post #176:-
if you're changing the rims, the bike, the tyres and the tyre companies will love you if you go one size wider on each rim = 2.15 (WM3 equivalent) on the front, 2.50 (WM4 equivalent) on the rear
:cool:

Also, have you looked if it's any cheaper buying direct from CWC?

quick way to un-assemble the seized rims easily?
If you're planning to relace hubs to rims yourself, first take (lots of?) photos. of the spoke layout on both wheels.

Then cut the spokes.

turning the discs?
I've never had an issue having them turned. The guys doing 'em for me have all realised the face against the hub is the reference for both sides even if they were turning one face at a time.

Fwiw, if I've intended to paint 'em, I do that first without bothering to mask the braking surface, turning then obviously removes the paint on the braking surface. (y)

Only thing to watch with pitted discs is the thickness shouldn't end up less than 1/4".

Hth.

Regards,
 
161 - 180 of 216 Posts
Top