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1978 T140 Refresh
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Hi Whisky,
Stud protruding through the rim, nut and washers tightened up to the rim, they clamp the tyre bead to the rim.
I like 'em; ime of punctures in tyres both with and without security bolts, if I've got to have one, I'd much sooner it was in a tyre clamped with security bolts.
The old wives' tale - stemming from them being fitted to dirt bike wheels (dirt bikes often running very low tyre pressures) - is they were fitted to stop Britbikes' tarmac-rippling power creeping the tyre on the rim during acceleration ...
Years ago, I was shown how to deal with 'em by a tyre fitter; always done 'em the same, never had a problem:-
. Fit the security bolt between the rim and the rim tape, nut screwed just on to the end of the stud.
. Fit the tyre as normal; as you get near a security bolt, just push on the end of the stud to move the wide part clear of the rim, the rim tape and the nut on the stud keep the security bolt in position in the rim.
. Once the tyre is inflated and you're happy the bead is seated in the rim, tighten the security bolts' nuts and washers down to the wheel rim..
Risking stating the obvious, each security bolt originally had a sealing washer between its steel washer and the rim: however, these are long-gone from your bike? If yes and you're keeping the bolts, you'll probably find the sealing washers aren't available as off-the-shelf spares, you'll have to work something out.
Hth.
Regards,
These photos. show a tyre security bolt; there are two of them?
Stud protruding through the rim, nut and washers tightened up to the rim, they clamp the tyre bead to the rim.
I like 'em; ime of punctures in tyres both with and without security bolts, if I've got to have one, I'd much sooner it was in a tyre clamped with security bolts.
The old wives' tale - stemming from them being fitted to dirt bike wheels (dirt bikes often running very low tyre pressures) - is they were fitted to stop Britbikes' tarmac-rippling power creeping the tyre on the rim during acceleration ...
Years ago, I was shown how to deal with 'em by a tyre fitter; always done 'em the same, never had a problem:-
. Fit the security bolt between the rim and the rim tape, nut screwed just on to the end of the stud.
. Fit the tyre as normal; as you get near a security bolt, just push on the end of the stud to move the wide part clear of the rim, the rim tape and the nut on the stud keep the security bolt in position in the rim.
. Once the tyre is inflated and you're happy the bead is seated in the rim, tighten the security bolts' nuts and washers down to the wheel rim.
.Risking stating the obvious, each security bolt originally had a sealing washer between its steel washer and the rim: however, these are long-gone from your bike? If yes and you're keeping the bolts, you'll probably find the sealing washers aren't available as off-the-shelf spares, you'll have to work something out.
Hth.
Regards,
Joined
·
151 Posts
Thanks @StuartMac...Hi Whisky,
These photos. show a tyre security bolt; there are two of them?
Stud protruding through the rim, nut and washers tightened up to the rim, they clamp the tyre bead to the rim.
I like 'em; ime of punctures in tyres both with and without security bolts, if I've got to have one, I'd much sooner it was in a tyre clamped with security bolts.
The old wives' tale - stemming from them being fitted to dirt bike wheels (dirt bikes often running very low tyre pressures) - is they were fitted to stop Britbikes' tarmac-rippling power creeping the tyre on the rim during acceleration ...
Years ago, I was shown how to deal with 'em by a tyre fitter; always done 'em the same, never had a problem:-
. Fit the security bolt between the rim and the rim tape, nut screwed just on to the end of the stud.
. Fit the tyre as normal; as you get near a security bolt, just push on the end of the stud to move the wide part clear of the rim, the rim tape and the nut on the stud keep the security bolt in position in the rim.
. Once the tyre is inflated and you're happy the bead is seated in the rim, tighten the security bolts' nuts and washers down to the wheel rim.
Risking stating the obvious, each security bolt originally had a sealing washer between its steel washer and the rim: however, these are long-gone from your bike? If yes and you're keeping the bolts, you'll probably find the sealing washers aren't available as off-the-shelf spares, you'll have to work something out.
Hth.
Regards,
Will go with your recs... What do you think of this? If I re-use the hubs etc...
TRIUMPH 750 TR7 T140 T160 CWC STAINLESS DISC BRAKE REAR WHEEL SPOKE SET 1976-78 UK MADE PN# TBS-5086
Triumph 750 TR7 T140 T160 CWC Stainless Disc Brake Rear Wheel Spoke Set 1976-78 UK Made PN# TBS-5086
www.thebonnevilleshop.com
TRIUMPH 750 CWC STAINLESS DISC BRAKE FRONT WHEEL SPOKE SET 1973-81 PN# TBS-5085 37-4130 37-4131
Triumph 750 CWC Stainless Disc Brake Front Wheel Spoke Set 1973-81 PN# TBS-5085 37-4130 37-4131
www.thebonnevilleshop.com
TRIUMPH WM2 X 19 DISC BRAKE FRONT WHEEL RIM CHROME CWC UK MADE PN# 37-4129 C W4129
Triumph WM2 X 19 Disc Brake Front Wheel Rim Chrome CWC UK Made PN# 37-4129 C W4129
www.thebonnevilleshop.com
TRIUMPH 750 TR7 T140 C.W.C. WM3 X 19 UK MADE CHROME REAR WHEEL RIM PN# 37-7030
TRIUMPH 750 TR7 T140 CWC WM3 X 18 UK MADE CHROME REAR WHEEL RIM PN# 37-7030 C
www.thebonnevilleshop.com
TRIUMPH NORTON BSA ETC. STANDARD 18" X 3.75/4.25 & 19" X 3.25/3.50 INNER TUBES
Triumph Norton BSA etc. Standard 18" X 3.75/4.25 and 19" X 3.25/3.50 Inner Tubes TBS-37-0193 TBS-37-0187
www.thebonnevilleshop.com
TRIUMPH 18" & 19" RIM STRIP RIM TAPE SET OUR PN# TBS-17-0118 & TBS-17-0119
Triumph 18" and 19" Rim Strip Rim Tape Set Our PN# TBS-17-0118 and TBS-17-0119
www.thebonnevilleshop.com
Joined
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11,961 Posts
Hi Whisky,
rim tapes, but my rim widths advice remains the same:-
Hth.
Regards,
Stainless spokes,
rim tapes, but my rim widths advice remains the same:-Also, personally, I'd never have chromed rims again - I pay the extra for ally or stainless.
Hth.
Regards,
Joined
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151 Posts
Will go with this advice as it appears to fit my tires... @StuartMac? Also reading some quality issue with CMC? Is this warranted?
Joined
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151 Posts
Ok,
as I have done this many times on many-o-projects in the past, I need to reel myself in, rather than spending thousands of dollars. I am going to restore these wheels and just replace the single spoke... Is this even possible at this point with the frozen nipples (lol), as my assumption is that all the nipples need loosened to release one, or can I cut one and replace it?
as I have done this many times on many-o-projects in the past, I need to reel myself in, rather than spending thousands of dollars. I am going to restore these wheels and just replace the single spoke... Is this even possible at this point with the frozen nipples (lol), as my assumption is that all the nipples need loosened to release one, or can I cut one and replace it?
Joined
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11,961 Posts
Hi Whisky,
View attachment 795253 Is this bent badly enough? 😈
Regards,
Mmmm ... while it's easy enough to remove the bent spoke, not sure how easy it'll be to fit a new one without, as you say, loosening them all to be able to move the rim ... then loosening might not be possible and you end up cutting most/all and buying a new spoke set ...
View attachment 795253 Is this bent badly enough? 😈
Regards,
Joined
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151 Posts
Well is it? Back to you… @StuartMac
Joined
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11,961 Posts
Hi Whisky,
Fwiw, one of my bikes has a similarly-bent spoke, it's been like it for about fifteen years ...
Regards,
Not for me to say definitely, it's your bike, you're going to ride it, you're going to do the work if you want to change it ...
Fwiw, one of my bikes has a similarly-bent spoke, it's been like it for about fifteen years ...
Regards,
I would have a go at straightening that spoke. You have to support the wheel such that you can rest a long screwdriver blade or similar metal bar across the spoke and push it in the opposite direction to the bend. Make sure you apply the force directly to the apex of the bend, a little at a time till you see a result. You probably need to tighten it anyway so dribble some releasing agent, 50:50 ATF/Thinners works well (not WD40), leave it a while and go back to it and try to release the nipple, work it forward and back, in a few days you should be able to turn it.
If you do want to replace the spoke, because the thread of the nipple is partly inside the circumference of the rim, you should be able to shorten the new spoke enough to flex it into place and still have plenty of threads to tighten it.
I’ve replaced a few broken spokes like this and never had to loosen any others.
Good luck
Joined
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151 Posts
It seems that 5/16" 1-1/2" hex bolts were held in place by mud for the rack. As I sanded the mud off I noticed this little trick... Was this done at the factory? @StuartMac I will be TIG welding bolts back...
![Water Liquid Automotive tire Fluid Gas]()
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11,961 Posts
Hi Whisky,
Then, if you look at the tops of the rack's vertical tubes, you should see they're countersunk. The "raised countersunk head" screws Triumph fitted are 82-2936.
If the rack's vertical tubes are 5/16" ID, I suspect it was to allow a little 'wiggle room' so the threaded inserts in the tank didn't have to be positioned super-accurately, the countersinks would then locate the rack securely laterally.
Hth.
Regards,
Uh-uh. Much earlier in the the thread, I mentioned that tanks that took racks as standard had four 1/4"-26 inserts in the top of the tank.
Then, if you look at the tops of the rack's vertical tubes, you should see they're countersunk. The "raised countersunk head" screws Triumph fitted are 82-2936.
If the rack's vertical tubes are 5/16" ID, I suspect it was to allow a little 'wiggle room' so the threaded inserts in the tank didn't have to be positioned super-accurately, the countersinks would then locate the rack securely laterally.
Given your undoubted skill, you can't fit the threaded inserts in the tank and use the standard screws?
Hth.
Regards,
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