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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all!

I recently purchased a '76 T140V for $2500 (hope this was a good deal). It only has a little over 4000 miles and has almost every original part. I am hoping to restore it and get it on the road as soon as possible.

I'll post a few pics of what it looks like I need to do. Any advice is more than welcome! :)

*edit: Final price I paid was $1500.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Kickstart won't move

So I have the bike in neutral. The clutch moves freely and on the stand the wheel moves smoothly, yet the kickstart only seems to move about a quarter of a turn and then stops. It will not budge from there. Do I need to take the engine apart and find out what is siezed? Thanks!
 

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So I have the bike in neutral. The clutch moves freely and on the stand the wheel moves smoothly, yet the kickstart only seems to move about a quarter of a turn and then stops. It will not budge from there. Do I need to take the engine apart and find out what is siezed? Thanks!
If you pull the plugs, will the engine turn over by pushing the bike when it's in 2nd gear? If it does, a little Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders to coat the walls, WD-40, motor oil, etc; are good. At TDC top dead center, you can see the tops of the pistons. You can do a thumb over the plug hole compression test to see if you have any. A wadded up paper towel in the plug hole should fly out if you have any compression. You can also look to see if the valves are operating without a big tear-down. If you really want to know what you've got, a complete disassembly is best. Good luck. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks!

If you pull the plugs, will the engine turn over by pushing the bike when it's in 2nd gear? If it does, a little Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders to coat the walls, WD-40, motor oil, etc; are good. At TDC top dead center, you can see the tops of the pistons. You can do a thumb over the plug hole compression test to see if you have any. A wadded up paper towel in the plug hole should fly out if you have any compression. You can also look to see if the valves are operating without a big tear-down. If you really want to know what you've got, a complete disassembly is best. Good luck. Bob
I put it into first gear and finally got it to start cranking. Now i need to figure out how to get the bike to start. Does the battery need to be hooked up or anything or is gas and the crank good enough?

also, there is a lever for a clutch cable but there is no cable running out of it. The throttle will not budge either. Am I going to have to replace those before I can get it running? Thanks
 

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1st start/ getting it running

I put it into first gear and finally got it to start cranking. Now i need to figure out how to get the bike to start. Does the battery need to be hooked up or anything or is gas and the crank good enough?

also, there is a lever for a clutch cable but there is no cable running out of it. The throttle will not budge either. Am I going to have to replace those before I can get it running? Thanks
First, while you're waiting, put some lubricant/penetrant in the plug holes, rocker boxes, and chain. Drain the oil from the frame and look for shiny metal. Put the 2 gaskets on your order list. I'd get the highest quality stainless steel/teflon/heavy duty casing clutch cable. MAPcycle is the one I'm using, but Venhill is good. these give easier clutch pull and adjustment. A high-quality throttle cable will not stretch and require minimal adjusting. You'll have to a visual inspection on your tach and speedo cables if you want to combine shipping costs. With a new battery, get an AGM if possible, you might be able to hear it run if you have a spark at the new plugs. I get NGK BR8EIX iridium plugs from my local Advance Auto. Plug wires are likely available form your cable supplier. I got mine at MAP.
With no throttle cable, a spritz of Carb cleaner, Starting ether, or WD-40 will fire for a second or 2. You'll want to clean the crap plugging passages in your carbs. I use Berryman's that I get from NAPA. I used a spritz of the Berryman's carb spray in each carb to start a long-sitting bike. I rebuilt my Amals with the Major Rebuild Kit with the stay-up float that I got from Burlen Amal in the UK and took 10 days to get here. You'll want to drain/refill the frame, primary, and tranny before running the bike much. You'll probably want to rechange the oil after running the engine. A non-detergent oil will not suspend particles and is recommended by some. The best thing you can do for your engine is immediately install an oil filter. The Norton 850 type or the Trident T150/160 type are popular. This will strain the crap that will otherwise circulate, lessening the need for a non-detergent oil to keep it out of bearings and small passages. Do no harm is a good philosophy on the first start-up. What does the inside of the gas tank look like?
I see you're in Minnesota. Give Mitch Klempf a call 507-374-2222 in Dodge Center Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Turning over

I take that back. I could only get the bike to crank while the clutch was in. I am assuming that the bike has to be able to turn over while the clutch is out? I am sure this is pretty basic stuff but I have no experience with a kickstart bike.

Also, I cannot get the tank off of the bike due to the middle bolt being broken possibly? It will unscrew but something is not catching. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 

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Your terminology may be wrong. The ks only drives the engine if it's out. Pulling in the lever means the ks only spins the clutch, not the crank.

Tank wise, it's held by a bolt that sits upwards. This sits in a square slot and may have dropped so it rotates. Try a bit of an angle so it locks as S you undo the nut
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What does the inside of the gas tank look like?
I cannot see any rust. It all looks pretty clean. The bike was drained when I received it. The bolt on the tank refuses to come off so I am stuck at the moment not being able to remove that. :confused:
 

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the bolt head fits in a slot...possibly it has crawled forward and spins, or someone strong armed it ...see if you can push the tank forward and push the bolt out of the slot....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the bolt head fits in a slot...possibly it has crawled forward and spins, or someone strong armed it ...see if you can push the tank forward and push the bolt out of the slot....
Got it! I just ended up drilling the bolt out without too much trouble. It is going to have to be replaced but I am just glad it's off. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Day 1

I was able to get most of the main parts off. Some of the bolts for everything else seem like they are going to be near impossible to get off because of their location.

Lots of work tomorrow so day 2 is going to be postponed unfortunately!


IMG_8862 by eamann665, on Flickr


IMG_8861 by eamann665, on Flickr


IMG_8859 by eamann665, on Flickr

Let me know what you think!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just bought a new clutch and throttle cable as well as two carb rebuild kits.

Am I going to need gaskets for the top end as well? I will order those if needed too.
 

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The tank center bolt is turning in it`s mount at the frame instead of being captured.You will have to devise a method to prevent it`s turning.Probably you have a hex head bolt in place of the proper mounting bolt.Some how you will have to jam something in the slot in the frame from beneath the tank yet able to reach the slot.Have a look at a parts manual to get an idea of the parts involved.

If you don`t have a manual go to www.classicbike.biz for a look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well, I am down to the bottom cylinder. The pistons had a lot of crap in them. Definitely seized up right there. I am having a difficult time getting the 12 point bolts that are holding the casing down. any suggestions? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Day 3

Finally got everything off of the frame. Time to strip it down and powdercoat!


IMG_8898 by eamann665, on Flickr

All the parts, what a mess!

IMG_8899 by eamann665, on Flickr

looks good in here

IMG_8899 by eamann665, on Flickr

here too

IMG_8903 by eamann665, on Flickr


IMG_8904 by eamann665, on Flickr

And now time to hurry up and wait. Until the pistons come loose, ALL I can do is clean all the chrome up and do a valve job!
 

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If you're going to get the frame shot-blasted before powder-coat, it's vital that the guy knows about OIF bikes, or the frame will be full of gunk.
If it was me, I'd strip the frame myself, taking care that the holes and threads are protected.
 
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