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Absolutely, Seager have come up in a number of my internet searches and it's good to hear from somebody actually using them. Hope it all goes well.
Chris
1976 T140v slow rebuild
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Chris
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1,457 Posts
Have a look on their FB page, they post lots of pics & details of the work they are doing to various parts. You can tell quite quickly they know what they are doing.
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1,457 Posts
I wasn't sure on the rules for such things, they are UK based for reference.Hi,
Put in a link for them? It's always good to know first-hand experience of suppliers, especially positive.
Regards,
This is their FB page, they put loads of pics of their work up.
Seager Engineering
Seager Engineering၊ Stowmarket .နှစ်သက်သူ ၁,၆၇၉ ဦး · ၂၃၉ ဦး ဒီအကြေင်းပြေနေသည် · ၂၃ ဦး ဤနေရာတွင် ရှိခဲ့ကြသည် . Phone 01728 598516 between 9am and 5pm Monday/Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday/Friday/sat...
www.facebook.com
And their website
Seager Engineering
www.seager-engineering.com
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1,457 Posts
My new shorty front mudguard turned up the other day, what sort of nuts & bolts are correct to hold it to the bracket? The ones I've got are random old crap I found in my toolbox & used years ago to retain the nasty plastic thing the bike used to have fitted.
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11,961 Posts
Hi.
Hth.
Regards,
Same bracket as in the image in your first post? If so, originally 1/4"UNF x 5/8"UH Pozidrive Panhead Screws into 1/4"UNF Self-locking Nuts, washer under each screw and nut.
Hth.
Regards,
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1,457 Posts
Yeah that bracket. Thanks for the info, I'll have to get some & drill the new guard to suit hopefully getting it straight haha
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11,961 Posts
Hi,
. I start by drilling the front one very central and smaller than 1/4" - 3/16"? 4 mm.?
. Then I bolt it to the front of the brace and check that the 'guard is central between the fork legs; if it isn't, because I drilled the hole in the 'guard smaller, I can file one side or the other to get the 'guard central before I open up the hole to 1/4" ID.
. Another reason I start by drilling the hole smaller is drilling a hole in sheet metal, it comes out trochoidal. I open up with a conical burr so the hole ends up circular, even if filed the original oval to move the 'guard on the bracket.
. Only when I'm happy the 'guard will appear central do I open up the hole to 1/4". Then I bolt the 'guard firmly to the bracket with the front bolt before drilling the two between the fork legs (again starting smaller and enlarging to size).
Also, the spec'd washers in the parts book were the Imperial equivalent of modern 2 mm. thick - this is unusual as common 1/4" washers are/were only 1 mm. thick/equivalent.
Personally, not a fan of mudguard mounting bolts protruding towards tyres, I replaced with ordinary stainless hex. bolts fitted from under the brace/'guard, topped with stainless domed nuts outside the 'guard.
Hth.
Regards,
Fwiw:-
. I start by drilling the front one very central and smaller than 1/4" - 3/16"? 4 mm.?
. Then I bolt it to the front of the brace and check that the 'guard is central between the fork legs; if it isn't, because I drilled the hole in the 'guard smaller, I can file one side or the other to get the 'guard central before I open up the hole to 1/4" ID.
. Another reason I start by drilling the hole smaller is drilling a hole in sheet metal, it comes out trochoidal.
I open up with a conical burr so the hole ends up circular, even if filed the original oval to move the 'guard on the bracket. . Only when I'm happy the 'guard will appear central do I open up the hole to 1/4". Then I bolt the 'guard firmly to the bracket with the front bolt before drilling the two between the fork legs (again starting smaller and enlarging to size).
Before you buy the bolts, both my T160's came with soft vibe-isolating washers between the bracket and the 'guard, although they aren't shown in the parts book. I was able to buy more many years ago, 'fraid no idea - apart from possibly a long-time dealer - whether they're still available under whatever the part number was. Or you could possibly add off-the-shelf plastic or rubber washers?
Also, the spec'd washers in the parts book were the Imperial equivalent of modern 2 mm. thick - this is unusual as common 1/4" washers are/were only 1 mm. thick/equivalent.
Personally, not a fan of mudguard mounting bolts protruding towards tyres, I replaced with ordinary stainless hex. bolts fitted from under the brace/'guard, topped with stainless domed nuts outside the 'guard.
Hth.
Regards,
Joined
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1,457 Posts
Well to update this I finally got around to trying to put the rocker boxes on again today. Result failure...
I've fitted the new studs with a drop of thread lock & then went to put the mushroom headed adjusters in, but they don't fit. Turns out the thead changed in 1976 from what I've now found out & I've obviously got sent the wrong ones.
Blast...
I've fitted the new studs with a drop of thread lock & then went to put the mushroom headed adjusters in, but they don't fit. Turns out the thead changed in 1976 from what I've now found out & I've obviously got sent the wrong ones.
Blast...
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11,961 Posts
Hi,
Do you have a screwpitch gauge? If not, enter the term into the Ebay Search. Inexpensive and very useful tool to have, despite most (all?) come with very coarse and very fine 'leaves' you'll never use (unless you're also into traction engines and similar). Pick one with both tpi (usually marked "Whitworth") and metric pitch 'leaves' and, if you can find one with a 27 tpi 'leaf' (for checking oil pressure switch threads), so much the better.
When/if you have a screwpitch gauge, you can check whether the supplier screwed up and sent you the wrong thread, or you ordered from the parts book and, in fact, your bike has later UNF rockers/adjusters/locknuts.
Risking telling you something you know already, also worth having (if you don't already) is a way of measuring diameters more-accurately than a plain old ruler. Sadly, these days, threaded component with the correct tpi according to the screwpitch gauge leaves, that still doesn't fit, could be oversize - only takes a couple of thou., which you won't see with a ruler. Aldi and Lidl frequently sell digital calipers for around £8, amazing value considering how long they last. Or an engineering tools supplier,
Hth.
Regards,
Hmmm ... both (Feb. and Aug.) '76 parts books show the earlier British Standard Cycle thread - 26 tpi (threads/turns per inch), which are also shown in the '78 parts book. Not 'til the '79 parts book are UNF (24 tpi) shown.
Do you have a screwpitch gauge? If not, enter the term into the Ebay Search. Inexpensive and very useful tool to have, despite most (all?) come with very coarse and very fine 'leaves' you'll never use (unless you're also into traction engines and similar). Pick one with both tpi (usually marked "Whitworth") and metric pitch 'leaves' and, if you can find one with a 27 tpi 'leaf' (for checking oil pressure switch threads), so much the better.
When/if you have a screwpitch gauge, you can check whether the supplier screwed up and sent you the wrong thread, or you ordered from the parts book and, in fact, your bike has later UNF rockers/adjusters/locknuts.
Risking telling you something you know already, also worth having (if you don't already) is a way of measuring diameters more-accurately than a plain old ruler. Sadly, these days, threaded component with the correct tpi according to the screwpitch gauge leaves, that still doesn't fit, could be oversize - only takes a couple of thou., which you won't see with a ruler. Aldi and Lidl frequently sell digital calipers for around £8, amazing value considering how long they last. Or an engineering tools supplier,
Hth.
Regards,
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1,457 Posts
All good points, I do need a thread gauge. I keep meaning to get one & then forget.
I've got verniers, but I'm sure it's the thread in this case as it goes in about two turns & stops. But the old nuts fit the new adjusters loosely.
I've got verniers, but I'm sure it's the thread in this case as it goes in about two turns & stops. But the old nuts fit the new adjusters loosely.
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1,457 Posts
Tiny, not very exciting update to this.
I picked up some second hand Norman Hyde rearsets on Monday. That solves my issues on how to sort the butchered rear sets already with the bike. I've forgot the make but they'd been modded to have odd pegs & everything was worn so the pegs hung downwards etc.
I picked up some second hand Norman Hyde rearsets on Monday. That solves my issues on how to sort the butchered rear sets already with the bike. I've forgot the make but they'd been modded to have odd pegs & everything was worn so the pegs hung downwards etc.
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14,239 Posts
Tarrozzi?
I have the exact same bike and I am interested in see how the rear sets are going to work with the kick starter. Cool build really like the triple clamps also.
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14,239 Posts
All you need is a folding right side peg and you won't have kickstart issues.
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1,457 Posts
No don't think so. I did identify them on another thread here, think it was a three letter name? I'll post a pic at some point if you're interested. For some reason they've been modified with a smaller peg on the right & the pegs hang down as everything is worn.
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1,457 Posts
We'll see. My engine is offset an extra 1/4" to the left due to the fatter rear tyre so it might be close. I do however have a mate working in a custom shop who are going to make me a new electrics box as I can't weld. So if the kicker is an issue I'll get them to warm it up & adjust* it to clear while they've got it.
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3,815 Posts
I’m a bit late to the party but, when faced with the same problem, I drilled and tapped the bottom slab yoke, the two bottom hoses join underneath the yoke, similar to what is in your photo, the brake fluid then flows through drilled passage in the yoke to the to the top side, where the hose going to the master cylinder is connected.
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3,815 Posts
Hi,
On the kickstart front, if the kickstart touches your leg while riding it is a very painful experience due to the vibratio.
If you can’t get a folding kickstart, you can always move the kickstart shaft round one spline on the quadrant inside the gearbox outer cover. Kicking is slightly more awkward and it does look odd with the kickstart shaft angled forward, but it does work.
I had this setup before I sourced a t160 kickstart, then I bought every one I could find for future projects as they are so much better than the T140 kickstart.
Regards
Peg.
On the kickstart front, if the kickstart touches your leg while riding it is a very painful experience due to the vibratio.
If you can’t get a folding kickstart, you can always move the kickstart shaft round one spline on the quadrant inside the gearbox outer cover. Kicking is slightly more awkward and it does look odd with the kickstart shaft angled forward, but it does work.
I had this setup before I sourced a t160 kickstart, then I bought every one I could find for future projects as they are so much better than the T140 kickstart.
Regards
Peg.
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1,457 Posts
Thanks for both of those Peg.
I'm looking at folding kickstarts when I get that far, I need to actually build the bike far enough to see if it hits the new (to me) Hyde rearsets I've now got.
Brakes wise, it's more the mix of braided & rubber hoses I find untidy. Plus I 'd like a little more length on the hoses to the callipers, they feel a fraction stretched on full fork extension. I might see if I can get a pair made up that go from a longer banjo bolt off the master cylinder & remove the need for the T-piece at all. I've seen it done on various newer bikes so I know it can be done.
I'm looking at folding kickstarts when I get that far, I need to actually build the bike far enough to see if it hits the new (to me) Hyde rearsets I've now got.
Brakes wise, it's more the mix of braided & rubber hoses I find untidy. Plus I 'd like a little more length on the hoses to the callipers, they feel a fraction stretched on full fork extension. I might see if I can get a pair made up that go from a longer banjo bolt off the master cylinder & remove the need for the T-piece at all. I've seen it done on various newer bikes so I know it can be done.
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