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Hi Adam, In California Boyer & most others will not stop dying at stop lights in hot weather. Only one that does is the one with idle stabilization. If you have worn slides, it will not help with dying on take off. I have experience with the lower line Pazon & it doesn't cure this. All dramatically help ping at lower RPM though. This has been my observation.

Setting idle really high like 1500+ works. A few owners do that as they'd rather have crazy fast idle than dying.

Yesterday on ride, bikes sat in direct afternoon sun for a little over an hour. The tank & fuel was very warm to touch. Not hot. So you are already feeding carb with warm fuel. That's not good practice in any case. No cure for that.

At the end of the day, once you get the hang of it, not really a big deal or problem.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Adam - thanks for that, at some point I may consider EI. For now, my goal is to get used to what I have and learn how to work with it.

Don - In your pictures, I'm having trouble seeing exactly where the fat 0 ring is installed. Is it between the carburetor and the pipe/fixture coming out of the cylinder head? One picture shows the 'air gap' but again I'm not sure which fittings I'm looking at. My carburetors are likely the originals (comparing them to yours) and my 'fittings' that attach my carburetor to the cylinder head intake port also seem rather old compared to yours. Heck... everything is old, lol.

vince
 

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Just an observation, Vince - EI is not a big deal to install.
I'm quite sure in California all the problems caused by high temperature are more visible and difficult, very soon I will envy you warmer weather and possibility of riding all year long.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Thanks Adam, yes it’s really hot here in August and September. Seems the heat stays longer every year. Good thing is we can ride throughout the winter... not much of a winter really just a rainy season.

had the privilege of seeing British Columbia many years ago when I was in the us navy. Our ship visited Victoria, Vancouver island. Wow what a beautiful city, and the Buchart gardens was magnificent.., love Canada !
 

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Hi vstevens, Here's a link to Rabers video on how to install oring. It may clear some things up.

Also there is a skinny oring that fits in groove like you'd expect oring to. Amal # 622/101. This is the ring you probably have between your heat insulator spacer & carb.

Don
 

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Hi vestevens, Sadly Rabers shut down operations fully at the end of last year. Raber family are really fine people. Was a very sad day when they closed.

The oring is available from most all the parts sellers. Classic British Spares sells a really nice cup washer, rubber rings, lock nuts, as a kit. I've used them a few times to very good results. Search their site 70-9554 & kit will come up.

Still if your bike is running good with the white spacers you have, I really feel you'll find no real improvement with installing thick O-rings. I've been involved with a few bikes now going from the thick ring to phenolic block & it made no difference one way or the other.
Don
 

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Hi Adam, We have lousy fuel, & our share of problems in the state of California. I will agree, the weather here is pretty great. Very nice for motorcycling all year in the central valley, foot hills, coastal areas. Just need to bundle up or wear snowmobile suit in the colder regions. Anything in mid 30s & up is good by me. Ice is my fear. Last year & this was warm winter. A few years ago I had to walk my bike through the icy sections. Setting on seat paddling feet like outriggers. A little snow ride to Mt. Hamilton. Mostly clear pavement, but they sanded the roads. Sand was pretty slippery, but still better than watching TV. I'm sure you're used to ice & sand. I did Army basic training Fort Leonard wood MO. A few days it was -35f. I couldn't believe how cold that was. Froze our food faster than we could eat it. I'm a sunny day kind of guy, that's for sure.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Thanks again, Don

Too bad about Rabers. If there was ever a time to support small business, this is it. CBS is a fun site to browse... just looking at all the parts available has become entertainment, lately.

Yes, my bike has been running pretty well, I think, knock on wood. The clean appearance of your manifold and air cleaner leads me toward copying it on my bike, at some point. But as Kadutz said, “if’n it ain’t broke...” PO’s efforts seem to have been in maintaining mechanicals and less about cosmetics. And i’d guess at least one PO considered building either a custom Bobber or Cafe type bike judging by the higher position of my rear brake lamp, ‘English handlebars, and lack of speedo and tach (thankfully I have them both) ... glad the bike is largely intact and running well.
 

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Just a suggestion mount your Speedometer as is. Doesn't matter if it works or not.

If Johnny-Law pulls you over for and he doesn't see a speedo he may give you grief OR if he's local he may look out for you later and write you for speeding. You will have no defense....

K 😷
 

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Finally!! My tags came in mail last night. Today, in spite of 90+ heat, took a ride for a few miles. A sort of shake down cruise.
Low on gas, so I stopped and put on 1 gallon. I remember something called ‘vapor lock’ happening during really hot days so didn’t fill up. Only rode about 10 miles or so, but all 5 gears engaged nicely, both brakes worked well (rear brake isn’t very powerful, most effective at slower speeds).

only one hiccup, likely due to operator error. At one stoplight, the idling motor died. That left me in the precarious position of putting the bike in neutral and kick starting it while several cars waited, unsympathetically, behind me. Of course, I’m wearing a good textile mesh jacket and and full face helmet and it is hot.

After a minute of fumbling, neutral engages, starts on the 2nd kick, and I’m off. My guess is that I did something...

One thing I noticed, while at idle, (after the motor heated up), if I ‘blipped’ the throttle, it would idle faster even after I relaxed the throttle before settling to an idle. Since I didn’t want a repeat performance I made sure I wouldnt die again ..,

This is me.., isn’t it?
Hi
I would not attempt to let the bike idle at the lights.
If there is going to be a long wait (lights just changed), just switch off, set the bike in neutral and the engine rotated to just past compression , just before the lights go green fire the engine up. You can easily get the clues from the opposite traffic slowing down or reflection of the amber light.
If the wait is going to be short (approached an already red light) then every 10 seconds or so pick the engine speed up to around 3000 then let it slow again. By pick up speed, I don’t mean blip the throttle hard).

Letting a Triumph idle hurts them, they are not built for it.

regards
Peg.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Hi
I would not attempt to let the bike idle at the lights.
If there is going to be a long wait (lights just changed), just switch off, set the bike in neutral and the engine rotated to just past compression , just before the lights go green fire the engine up. You can easily get the clues from the opposite traffic slowing down or reflection of the amber light.
If the wait is going to be short (approached an already red light) then every 10 seconds or so pick the engine speed up to around 3000 then let it slow again. By pick up speed, I don’t mean blip the throttle hard).

Letting a Triumph idle hurts them, they are not built for it.

regards
Peg.
Peg — I gotta ask even though it reveals my ignorance.., how do I know the bike is rotated just past compression? Suddenly I feel the need to shout, “I’m not worthy’, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Just a suggestion mount your Speedometer as is. Doesn't matter if it works or not.

If Johnny-Law pulls you over for and he doesn't see a speedo he may give you grief OR if he's local he may look out for you later and write you for speeding. You will have no defense....

K 😷
Kadutz- pictures show the speedo mount (I have one that is twisted) is fitted on the top of the fork tube. How much damage can I do attempting to mount it?
 

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Hi Peg, Shut off motor at red light? We see eye to eye on most things, but stopping motor at red lights is a death wish. What if bike doesn't start promptly? You'd get ran over. That's simply not practical. I've never seen anybody stop motor on purpose at red light. I've done many club rides & ridden with hundreds of others. We just never ever do that. I have a close riding circle of about 5 guys. None every stops motor at stop light on purpose.

I know cams don't oil as well at idle. Still, I've covered 35k+ miles on my motor so far, original pistons, rings, bores, valves, guides. I live east of San Francisco. Traffic is dreadful. Stop & go on freeway for miles, hours. Stop lights are very long. I idle motor about 1050. I'd hate to count the minutes my bike has idled. It cold weather it will idle flawlessly no matter how long. Above 90f when heat soaked & gas in tank is hot from sun & heat from surrounding cars, I must blip throttle occasionally. As you say, not high rpm. I do everything possible to keep motor from dying at stop lights.

I would imagine traffic in UK in the big cities is similar to here. Seriously, you'd be rear ended for sure. You know how cars move up until they are packed up at lights. If you don't move up, you will get rear ended. Lane splitting (threading) is legal in California, but not in most states of USA. Lots of riders hit lane splitting in my area. Pretty much all the riders I know that lane split have been hit. A few seriously injured. Crazy as it sounds, these bikes can actually take the heat of city riding quite well. The biggest problem I have is low voltage after an hour of city riding. 3 phase alternator is cure for that. I already have LED headlight.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Having been to London, I can say with confidence the traffic is grueling. No way would I attempt to drive in London ... maybe out in the country... but just getting used to driving on the left is hard enough. Factor into that bad traffic and no go.

San Francisco/Bay Area is likely worse, much worse than San Diego (LA tops the list for traffic - although Seattle is in competition).

personally, I don’t have the confidence to switch off my bike at a stop- light. If it were electric start.., maybe. I just don’t trust the drivers behind me. And I won’t be driving the next time I’m visiting London. (Which is, consequently, my favorite city),
 

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Kadutz- pictures show the speedo mount (I have one that is twisted) is fitted on the top of the fork tube. How much damage can I do attempting to mount it?
Well you have two brackets the same on is used on both gauges I would used the better of the two. How much damage can you do? I suppose a lot if you try to use a 10 lb sledge hammer and a Torch. BUT if you use a wrench to loosen and replace the fork cap none:). If you have the new speedo cable to complete te farce remove the inner cable until you get a new drive and install the housing. Store the new inner in a baggie.

Now under the heading of none of my business but I will bring it up anywayo_O

When installing you gas tank do not CRANK DOWN on the center mounting bolt. The tank is intended to 'float' on the rubber bush also be sure to use the tank strap at front underside of the tank. Failure to follow these may result in stress cracks and a leaking tank. You mentioned earlier about replacing the plastic center badge. The one in use presently is # 83-4776 should you want one that is Silver with Red letters that is #84-0026, Black with Gold letters is #82-5656.

On your air filter covers that nut is again just snugged down. Do not crank down so tight that there is distortion, By the way you are missing plug # 60-4152 that hides the exposed nut. AND as long as we are being an anal rivet counter change that flat bladed screw holding on the badge. Correct one is #82-4129 and is a posi drive.

If you use the fat O-rings on the carbs it was accepted shop practice to used a bit of RTV Silicone to hold them in place during the install process.

Outta here fo a bit.....

K 😷
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Thanks again, Kadutz

my new speedo drive unit is ready. Unfortunately, the post office lost the speedo cable and I’m waiting for them to find it. The Bonneville shop was fast in delivery... but the USPS disappointed me. Poor buggers are under huge pressure and I feel bad about complaining - they work really hard and I’ve Never had a lost parcel before.

This weekend, I’ll mount the speedo and tach - without cables. I think I’ll let Adam’s shop down the street install the speedo drive and new wheel bearings as well - gotta order those today - I’m afraid I’ll mess up the rear wheel somehow if I attempt it, and Adam can use the business.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
Oh... while ordering stuff I may as well get the missing plug and correct screws. Question: do posi screws require a different sort of screwdriver ?
 

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Discussion Starter #119
And one more thing - the workshop manual implies the speedo drive has a left hand thread.., or is the manual referring to something else?
 
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