[PhredH]

I'm new to motorcycles and my T140V.

I have replaced the broken red kill switch on the RH handlebar. I noticed that of the two black rectangular buttons above/below the kill switch, one of them did have a wire soldered to one side of the black button switch. I cannot see what these black buttons do. Do either of them have a purpose, or are they not used from the manufacturer?

My speedometer is missing the trip odometer reset stem that would stick out of the rear face of the speedometer at 7 o'clock position. I had heard there is a long (4"- 6") flexible stem for this. If so, where can I find one?

Peace,
Phred

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Phred,

Firstly, welcome to the Forum.

two black rectangular buttons above/below the kill switch

The black button without any wires attached doesn't do anything.

The black button with a wire attached (insulation mainly White with Red tracer lines?) was for an electric starter ...

I kid you not ... That switch cluster and its corresponding one on the left handlebar (headlamp dip switch on top moves forwards-backwards, turn signals switch below that moves side-to-side, horn push at the bottom might also flash headlamp main if pushed upwards) were lifted from the '75 T160, that did have an electric-starter; the kill-switch cluster was an adaption of an earlier switch cluster so the red lever was a positive on/off switch for the engine, necessary for the T160 to comply with a 1975 FMVSS to allow the model to be sold in the US; then fitted to '76-'78 750 twins for the same reason.

The other end of the White/Red wire, inside the headlamp shell, must be insulated:-

. either by being plugged into the main harness with the multi-way pin-'n'-socket plug;

. or, if the plug's been cut off and the wires have individual terminals, by some sort of insulation;

. reason is the black button is fed by a plain White wire, all plain White wires are 'hot' when the ignition switch is turned on so, if the button's pressed accidentally, the White/Red wire becomes 'hot', if the White/Red wire end's lying uninsulated in the headlamp shell ...

missing the trip odometer reset
where can I find one?

These guys might be able yo help?

Otherwise, they don't appear to be available, at least at present (Google can't find it wither with "smiths 48-118-126-47" or "smiths motorcycle speedometer trip reset" ). When you do find one, it'll be about the length of Extended Trip Reset Knob to fit Smiths chronometric Speedo | eBay but with the speedometer end shaped like SMITHS SPEEDO TRIP RESET KNOB SUITS 3" MAGNETIC GAUGES 99-0176 BSA TRIUMPH 1964+ | eBay

When you do find and fit one, the problem is the speedo. doesn't grip the reset very tightly, if it drops out ... The trick is to pull a small zip-tie tightly around the reset inside the rubber 'cup' that mounts the speedo., if the stem drops out of the speedo., the zip-tie will hold it 'til you notice; otoh, if you pull on the reset deliberately to withdraw it, the zip-tie will just slide off the reset.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[PhredH]

Great info, thanks for your help.
Phred

 

[Snakeoil]

You might consider making one yourself. The photo in the ebay ad of the end of the shaft that snaps in and then drives it can probaby be scaled to allow you to machine one. You might also find someone with one that they will let you measure so you can make one. A bike shop might let you take on from a bike if you leave a sizeable deposit and then offer to make two and give them the other one. Once you made the end, a suitable piece of plastic tubing could be used to make the entended shank and then make a knurled knob to push into the other end of the tube.

To Stuart's point about them no gripping well. You could experiment with machining the little bulb a bit bigger or changing the angle of the step that holds it to give the speedo a better grip on it.

Another thought is getting a standard length reset from a Smith's repair shop and add the length of plastic tubing. Might even be able to cut it so you can use the knurled end for the other end of the tubing.

 

[PhredH]

Another thought is getting a standard length reset from a Smith's repair shop and add the length of plastic tubing. Might even be able to cut it so you can use the knurled end for the other end of the tubing.

Nice idea about cutting a standard one and inserting ends into a longer tube.