GrandPaulZ· Super Moderator
Nice job, I fitted the same to my 76 Tiger, I could fit it in one piece until I fitted new gaskets to the manifold, after that I lost a little clearance and it’s now piece by piece as you say.Okay now on to the air filter.
The stock one is non-functional. It’s a factory feature.
Oh, plenty of air flow, but air filled with dirt seeping through the seams.
I hated it in ‘73 and I hate it now.
I like riding on dirt roads. On my ride tonight I could have ridden pavement 90% of the way, but what fun is that?
Yes, I'm actually riding the bike now and catching this journal up from a couple-three weeks ago.
The Bonneville ducts through the air filter covers but the Tiger ducts through the center castings so in order to access the carb, you have to take everything apart.
It takes a while to do that and even longer to put it back together. Yes, I reiterate, it sucks.
So luckily, the old TR6 type pan filter will work on the OIF.
It has to be assembled piece by piece, but it is a far easier process than the stock one.
I made it easier in a couple of ways.
I tossed the hose clamp that came with it in the garbage and utilized the stock slim ring clamp that held the old rubber boot on the carb mouth. (60-3975 Clip, Jubilee Type). I removed the 2BA Philips head and found that a M4 threads into it without re-tapping.
So, I bought a stainless M4 socket head cap screw which can be tightened with a ball-driver type M3 allen wrench, hence the angular approach with the tightening tool is no problem.
The chrome shroud needs to be partially unwrapped to get it on, so I pop-riveted the keeper clamps to the shroud so I wasn’t fumbling around with them.
I also discarded the cheap screw and nut that was on it and used a stainless M4 socket head cap screw on it as well.
So, I only need one tool in my kit, an M3 long arm balldriver.
Future improvement will be to solder a little piece of steel where the nut goes and tap it to M4. Oh I can see very easily how I’d lose that nut and be kicking myself.
View attachment 789664
;-) Thanks, I was pretty frustrated and thought "there's got to be a better way"they’re a right fiddle.
Hi Fledge,View attachment 789745
This is so good, I've gone back for another look. The fuse holder is neat. Do you have a link, so I can find a similar one?
You've persuaded me to splash out on rubber grommets too
You are correct, with an electronic ignition you need one or the other but not both. I’ve had very good results with those particular NGK caps on KTM singles which are prone to ruining plug caps., I suggest a dab of silicon dielectric grease on the end of the wire before screwing in to keep out the moisture. Although there’s a rubber boot, heat cycling can draw in moisture which is then trapped.Spark Plugs:
I would assume that if you are using resistor plugs you would use a non-resistor cap. Somebody correct me if I’m wrong.
View attachment 790034
+1.correctassume that if you are using resistor plugs you would use a non-resistor cap.
Not so correct:-with an electronic ignition you need one or the other
Ime, they aren't, persistent pita and they're a crap idea:-NGK makes some really nice resistor caps
Not so correct:-
. Analogue electronics - Lucas Rita, Boyer-Bransden Mark-anything (commonly Mk.3 or Mk.4), Pazon Sure-Fire, Wassell - don't "need" any additional HT resistance.
. Digital electronics - Tri-Spark, Boyer-Bransden MicroDigital and MicroPower, Pazon Smart-Fire and Altair, other digital electronic gadgets - do need some additional HT resistance; however, it's worth understanding more than any EI maker's information:-
.. resistive spark plugs, caps and HT leads are typically 5 KOhms (5,000 Ohms) each;
.. coil with a single HT lead needs one or the other, more than one is not 'better', or even 'good' - the air gap between a plug's electrodes is many, many time more resistive, resistances connected 'in series' are cumulative, the more you connect, the more risk there is the HT will find an alternative path to 'earth'; if that alternative path happens to be through the box (due to iffy insulation somewhere?) you can kiss the electronics goodbye.
The EI makers are even less informative on HT resistance on twin-HT-lead coils. Their HT circuit is wholly independent of the LT - do they need two resistors (10 Kohms), or just one (5 KOhms); say one resistor plug and one without?
Ime, they aren't, persistent pita and they're a crap idea:-
. Certainly 1970's Triumph plug leads had the plug terminal crimped to the lead, the "plug cap" was just a plastic cover over the connection to the plug itself.
. Otoh, as you've posted, NGK plug caps screw into the end of the HT lead - immediately one extra connection in a conductor carrying 15-20(?) KV many times a second ...
. However, it's worse than that, there's two additional connections within the cap - one each end of the internal resistor ...
. When (not if ime) screw-in plug caps come loose from the plug lead, the poor connection becomes an additional source of electro-magnetic interference - the very thing any additional HT resistance is there to attenuate ...
If a bike must have additional HT resistance to attenuate electro-magnetic interference with digital electronics on the bike, the most long-term reliable combination I've found is the aforementioned 1970's-type Triumph plug leads with resistor plugs.
97-7010 Leak Proof seals and interference-fit steel retaining washers. The washers are easy to fit in the stanchion tops - washers in the freezer for thirty minutes or so, some heat on the top of the slider. Once fitted, in the unlikely event the seals ever need replacing, old ones can by pulled out through the stanchion holes in the washers, new Leak Proofs on their own are available under a different part number.already bought new seals and O-rings before I found out that there are high-end aftermarket components that can be used here to avail a more responsive action. I’d appreciate advice pertaining to this for future reference.
Fwiw, I've never put any sort of fastening around any of the Commando gaiters on my bikes, never had one come off.new Commando gaiters from Andover Norton.
bottom diameter of the gaiter rubber is about a half inch smaller than the fork leg upper diameter,
found some stainless-steel zip ties at the hardware store