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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello, I'm completely new to the form. I've googled and searched within and have found countless awesome conversations, but nothing as of yet that definitively solves my issue. I've been putting a 1972 Tiger 650 together that I literally got in five milk crates. It now has a twin carb head on it and original air box for twin carb in 72. I've noticed now that the throttle grip side or right hand side carb boot does not want to mount up correctly. It appears that the engine may be slightly to the left. I've been wondering if I may have the engine spacers on the front and or bottom in incorrectly making the engine slightly miss aligned. The books and manuals I've searched so far don't give any dimensions. Any help getting to the bottom of which spacer lengths go where on a 1972 OIF 650 would be greatly appreciated!
Thankyou in advance for any help.

I currently have the case centered in the frame on the case half. Longer spacer on none drive output side. Its about a 1/4 inch longer. Thinking maybe this is reverse and will even up the carbs by splitting the difference if switched around. 1/4 inch in on one side is 1/4 out on the other. But even of greater importance is the chain alignment down the road. I don't want to even up the carbs if the chain is correct as is.
 

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Hi,

Firstly, welcome to the Forum. :) I've moved your thread to Classic, Vintage & Veteran; the Air Cooled Twins forums are for the Hinckleys that fit the description.

engine may be slightly to the left. I've been wondering if I may have the engine spacers on the front and or bottom in incorrectly making the engine slightly miss aligned.
currently have the case centered in the frame on the case half.
Not sure what that last phrase means? :confused:

IIrc, the front engine mounting to the frame doesn't have any spacers? If so:-

. Remove the spacers you have from the lower and rear engine mountings, reassemble the engine loosely in the frame with just the bolts and studs.

. Tighten the front engine mounting bolt/nut, periodically wiggling the engine on the other mountings as you tighten. Front engine mounting doesn't have to be super-tight, just nipped up.

. Once the front engine mounting's nipped-up, the gaps on the bottom and rear engine mountings should show which spacers go where.

If one or more spacers don't fit anywhere, the only two problems might be:-

. The frame is bent - checking wheel and final-drive chain/sprocket alignment will confirm this or rule this out.

. Triumph wasn't always super-accurate about spacer dimensions; (n) nor are at least some of the modern spares makers ... :rolleyes: Unless a spacer either just drops into a gap without any side-to-side movement, or is a light push (not hammer) fit in a gap, I prefer to measure the gap accurately and approach a local machinist to turn new, more-accurate spacer from ally or stainless round bar - either forcing a too-big spacer into a gap or tightening the mounting bolt or stud to bend the frame to take up a side-to-side gap introduces stresses into the frame it wasn't ever designed to take.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi,

Firstly, welcome to the Forum. :) I've moved your thread to Classic, Vintage & Veteran; the Air Cooled Twins forums are for the Hinckleys that fit the description.


Not sure what that last phrase means? :confused:

IIrc, the front engine mounting to the frame doesn't have any spacers? If so:-

. Remove the spacers you have from the lower and rear engine mountings, reassemble the engine loosely in the frame with just the bolts and studs.

. Tighten the front engine mounting bolt/nut, periodically wiggling the engine on the other mountings as you tighten. Front engine mounting doesn't have to be super-tight, just nipped up.

. Once the front engine mounting's nipped-up, the gaps on the bottom and rear engine mountings should show which spacers go where.

If one or more spacers don't fit anywhere, the only two problems might be:-

. The frame is bent - checking wheel and final-drive chain/sprocket alignment will confirm this or rule this out.

. Triumph wasn't always super-accurate about spacer dimensions; (n) nor are at least some of the modern spares makers ... :rolleyes: Unless a spacer either just drops into a gap without any side-to-side movement, or is a light push (not hammer) fit in a gap, I prefer to measure the gap accurately and approach a local machinist to turn new, more-accurate spacer from ally or stainless round bar - either forcing a too-big spacer into a gap or tightening the mounting bolt or stud to bend the frame to take up a side-to-side gap introduces stresses into the frame it wasn't ever designed to take.

Hth.

Regards,
Thank you for the reply! I'm still learning to navigate the form a bit and actually just posted another post thinking this one didn't post correctly. How you recommended the steps to install the engine is essentially how I went about it. That and a lot of internet. The bottom spacers went in last. They fit rather well. My front engine horn has spacers on either side. One side is about 1/4 inch and one side is about a half. There is no brash apparent damage to the frame. But anything is possible on a almost fifty year old bike. Heck it could have been built on a Friday as well. When I sit on the bike looking down at the frame back bone the engine is slightly to the left from center. About a 1/4 inch. Perhaps this is for chain clearance and drive out put to line up with the sprocket. I'll take a picture from above on of the engine position later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The longer spacer is located on the timing side of the motor.
Thank you for the reply, I'll check tonight but I'm pretty sure I have the longer 1.47 spacer on the timing side. Do you know, Is the engine suppose to be slightly offset to the left? Or towards the primary side.
Thank you for the reply! I'm still learning to navigate the form a bit and actually just posted another post thinking this one didn't post correctly. How you recommended the steps to install the engine is essentially how I went about it. That and a lot of internet. The bottom spacers went in last. They fit rather well. My front engine horn has spacers on either side. One side is about 1/4 inch and one side is about a half. There is no brash apparent damage to the frame. But anything is possible on a almost fifty year old bike. Heck it could have been built on a Friday as well. When I sit on the bike looking down at the frame back bone the engine is slightly to the left from center. About a 1/4 inch. Perhaps this is for chain clearance and drive out put to line up with the sprocket. I'll take a picture from above on of the engine position later.
yes. if you have the correct spacers, they should only go in one way, unless something is bent.
Both the front and rear spacers are a 1/4 different from side to side. If I have the front ones in wrong the rears will offer up reversed is my concern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey guys, I started from scratch checking the frame, swing arm. Then the sprocket alignments. Followed by the rear to front tire alignment.

After the help here and a couple of phone calls I came home today and pulled all the engine mounts out. Followed the procedure recommended here work the back mounts first. Tightened the right rear first since that's the way I needed to shift it.

The issue, that solved the problem the front and bottom mounts did NOT line up perfect. I thought three 1/8 spacers I found in the bucket of bolts fit well on the right side behind the rear engine mounts and front mount. The lower mounts went in perfect with these spacers in place.

Long story short those spacers don't go there. I removed them. Tightened the right rear. Then the front. Then the left rear. The lowers did not go in quite as well after this but good enough.

With those spacers removed and chain in now it looks pretty good by the eye so far.

The head steady finally lines up as well.

Thank you for the replies!

This is what it looks like now, and both air cleaner boots mount up nicely as well.
 

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