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Your drill looks very solid and could be used in many situations.
I don't have space to have anything but small vice and all my machining is conveyed to my very trusty, very good, but very slow and expensive master machinist.
I have to leave my stuff with him in September to pay and pick it up in the end of March, this is how long the line for his services is.
His work is immaculate though.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I too have an excellent machinist for the more specialized jobs - and he does not charge me -( but he is my brother )- but its also a waiting game until he has tine to fit my jobs in

made a plate to mount my Boyer "box" -- there is just enough space but having made and mounted it i found the wires could rub against the fixing bolts - luckily i made the plate from 3mm ali so there was enough thickness to countersink the holes so the heads of the 2BA fixings are now flush

made another plate mounted the other side of the frame to mount a combined regulator / rectifier -- this means i will have to relocate the horn relay slightly foreward onto the twin horn bracket
 

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Discussion Starter #43
decided to proceed with the assembly of the twin horn bracket / relay / condenser and "horns"

bike only came with the correct relay and the correct condenser pack -- managed to source a NOS main bracket and made the flat L bracket out of a piece of s/steel after looking at various images on tinternet and a bit of measuring

as i dont have the correct horns - and if you can get them they are silly money - and if you fit them then they are too heavy and the bracket breaks - so fitting the ones in the pics - they are light and best of all cheap

there is a definate sequence of assembly to enable fixing screws to be inserted but got there after a few tries

the stainless bracket i made to mount the relay, positions it maybe about 1/8 or so higher than i intended but there is sufficient clearance "to get away with it -- the one elec tab on the relay has to be bent slightly to clear the head steady bracket on the frame -- but this seems to the case with 100% original assemblies
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Yes its not sealed so any moisture could migrate inside and stay there - Stuart has already suggested that i mount it upside down - i will see how the wiring looks if i mount it like that
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Started work on the outer gearbox cover ( much of this is also in the main forum section) --- the kickstart shaft was pitted from corrosion and a groove was worn by the seal in the outer cover - so ordered a NOS shaft from ebay - arrived looked OK apart from some slight pitting found after cleaning it up -- plated the kickstart end as it had not been done ( that should have been a warning sign) -- came to fit the quadrant - no go -tried it in the inner and outer cases - would not fit - found it measured 15 thou oversize in all important areas ( suggestion is this is a reject part from way back when - seller probably did not realise - has gone back for a refund) - first pic shows my worn shaft and the "reject"

orderd another NOS shaft - this came and it was the genuine article - sealed boxed from 1965 - a pity to unpack it -

thick with grease and plated at the kickstart end - going a bit dull but OK

went together perfik --- cleaned up the gearchange mechanism - splined were a little "damaged" but reprofiled to a uesable condition ( how do you damage these splines ? gorilla assembly methods ? - sorry Gorillas !)

outer cover now fully assembled with replated clutch cable "abutment" and kickstart seal holder - and new spring to replace the rusty one
 

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Discussion Starter #48
moved on the inner gearbox cover -- after cleaning out a lot of crap - started blowing it dry with the air line - all went well until i realised i was spraying the needles out of the layshaft bearing around my garage (OH gosh darnit !)
fitted a new one ! -- in nearly 50 years of fiddling with Bonnies this was my first gearbox needle roller bearing replacement !

obviously i did not have the tool suggested in the manual ! --- decided the layshaft itself would be a reasonable substitue -- so bunged the case in kitchen over at regulo Max until it was too hot to touch with bare pingles

knocked out the old one part the way with the layshaft and finished with a suitable long reach socket - back in the oven for 2 mins just in case
Layshaft "tool" worked well with a nylon faced knockometer - bit of back and forth and measuring with a depth vernier got it where i wanted it

pic shows the new needle roller bearing stuffed with paper to prevent a recond bout of stupidity
 

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moved on the inner gearbox cover -- after cleaning out a lot of crap - started blowing it dry with the air line - all went well until i realised i was spraying the needles out of the layshaft bearing around my garage (OH gosh darnit !)
fitted a new one ! -- in nearly 50 years of fiddling with Bonnies this was my first gearbox needle roller bearing replacement !

obviously i did not have the tool suggested in the manual ! --- decided the layshaft itself would be a reasonable substitue -- so bunged the case in kitchen over at regulo Max until it was too hot to touch with bare pingles

knocked out the old one part the way with the layshaft and finished with a suitable long reach socket - back in the oven for 2 mins just in case
Layshaft "tool" worked well with a nylon faced knockometer - bit of back and forth and measuring with a depth vernier got it where i wanted it

pic shows the new needle roller bearing stuffed with paper to prevent a recond bout of stupidity

Hi wol, I think something must have been wrong with that needle bearing to fly apart like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Yes i agree -- i consoled myself by telling myself that it must have been on its way out so my airline did me a favour
 

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Discussion Starter #51
not done much for a while -- stripped the paint off the mudguards and tank then rattle canned some primer -- for some unknown reason i offered up the petrol tank onto the frame - would not drop down ! -- turns out my great idea to mount the boyer and reg/rectifier back to back was not such a good idea after all - combined they were too wide and the tank would not slide over them - took off the reg/rec and mounted the boyer slightly further "into" the frame - tank now fits again ! -- reg/rec will probably now mount to the battery tray --
 

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Discussion Starter #53
good point GPZ - certainly will get more airflow in/under the battery area
 
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