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Nice work there Rod. That big tank was a mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
tank welded

Cleaned the tank out with boiling water and detergent twice - then ran exhaust fumes from my van for half an hour (thanks Rod) --- smelt clean but then i did the old " open flame over the filler cap at arms length and behind a wall" ploy ! - nothing happenend so then i got brave and stuck a blow torch in the tank and up the petrol tap holes - i survived and the tank was purged ! ( never done it before and it certainly concentrates the mind !) -- did the front stud repair first - opened up the hole in the"turret" to about 3/4 inch diameter then welded a 5/16 nut to a suitable thick washer - this was then gas welded in place --- then I cut out the badly fitted replacement rear mounting tab -- it appears that whoever made it put the correct bend in it but then welded it in upside down -- with a little work to improve its shape it fitted well so gas welded that in place - then remembered i had fogotten to drill the hole for the chrome trim clip !!!
Just waiting for an expanding plumbing plug for the filler hole to arrive then i can put a few PSI in and test for leaks

following Rods advice i did not braze anyting - but have found a brazed repair to the other "turret" where it meets the tank - didnt leak while i was cleaning it but will double check during pressure testing

-- what diameter hole should the small hole for trim fixing clip be ? - just put a pilot hole in for now
 

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Hi Wol,

what diameter hole should the small hole for trim fixing clip be ? - just put a pilot hole in for now
On the pre-'73 T150 and T100 tanks I have, the standard trim fixing hole is wa-aa-ay too big for the clip. :Darn The clip's thread is only 4BA; on my T150, I fitted a 1/8" ID, 1/4" OD stainless washer from Dave 'n' Richard Middleton under the nut, or the nut virtually pulls through the hole. :(

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks Stuart - if it only 4BA then my pilot hole is good as it is -- i seem to remember i had some original chrome tank strips (way back in time) where the end had a threaded section welded to it - not the seperate loop thing
 

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Discussion Starter #25
just read that the "loop thing" for the tank chrome strip was introduced during 1969
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Time has slipped by and i realized that i hadnt posted for a while -- never going to be a detailed as many other builds on this forum but "will try to do better"
bad bits found
-- various fork internals missing such as washers at each end of springs - shuttle assemblies - strangley had new tubes and seals
---cam lobes were just "kissing" the crank flywheel - were aftermarket ful race - sold them and bought std
---wrong speedo - came with 120mph from a 500 --- got the correct one coming from the States -
---seat subframe had minor work done to it - tracked down a good one
---oil tank was from a 69 or earlier - tracked down a good 1970 model
--- endless list of small items missing or incorrect

all black bits now powder coated - original wheels severly worked on and new tyres fitted -

i now have a rolling chassis --- will post some pics in a day or two
 

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Discussion Starter #28
a few pics to prove i am doing something ---- both wheels "refurbished" - kept the original hubs/spokes/rims as they were the original items -- rear rim really good with only a few pin holes - front not so good ; chrome wearing thin but still solid --- new sealed wheel bearings fitted - various parts re-plated with my DIY kit - new Dunlop K70 tyres and new inner tubes -
-- forks rebuilt - came with new tubes and bushes -but most other small parts were missing
-- swing arm fitted with new bushes
-- main frame assy now bolted together

as you can see my garage/workshop needs tidying
 

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Looking good wol! Feels good to reach the point of a rolling chassis. When I reached that point it gave me a big boost to move on with the rest of the project.

Keep up the good work.....you're going to love that bike when you're finished!......Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks for your interest -- not bolted much more to the rolling chassis - next major movement will be the building of the engine - some ham fisted previous owner used a "persuader" on the timing side end of the crank and mushroomed the end slightly - currently with my brother to sort it out - ( he has access to a full machine shop)
in the mean time slowly amassing various missing bits and pieces - and still finding parts that are not correct for the year - i keep telling myself that it was not my intention to do a 100% correct rebuild ---- " oh i will just change that part so it is correct" appears to be a phrase i am using more often than i should

what i have done is rattled canned the oil tank and side cover to a good finish - the oil tank (replacement as the one that came on the bike was not correct for a 1970) and the side panel were powder coated so i flatted them off to take the rattle can paint - much nicer finish ( and sprayed the speedo / tacho cases too)

got a pair of new stainless mudguards for a good price on fleabay -- now i am debating with myself - should i stay with the "correct" painted mudguards or fit the stainless ( i understand Canadian bikes had stainless that year) -- i do like the look of stainless mudguards
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Finally found a solvent to disolve the adhesive that has been holding my backside in my "comfy chair" -- commonly known as sunshine resulting in an increase in temperature in my "workshop"

bolted a few more items to the frame - new shocks - clocks are working so only needed a bit of rattle can black -- oil tank/side panel/battery carrier are all in , but the rear battery strap looks wrong - might have it fixed in the wrong side of the tab on the oil tank -- only noticed it when i looked at the picks - headlamp is the original with a few rust pin marks but is sound otherwise - clutch and brake lever assys are repro ( bike came with "oribinals" but wrong year) -- 6 volt coils are fitted in replated mounts (ready for Boyer) - original horn relay refitted --- found i dont have the twin horn mounting bracket , but dont have the horns anyway
 

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Lookig good. Keep up the good work! Took me about 5 years to put my 70 Bonneville together from a box of parts that had to be restored, replaced or purchased new. Worked on it when I could or when I felt like working on it. Sometimes I'd work on the bike 3 days in a row then walk right by it every day for month without touching it. I just had to be in the right mood. Usually after watching some guy on YouTube riding his 70 Bonneville on some nice country road got me back working on my bike.
I don't know about you but I never owned a Triumph before. So it was a new experience for me and now I know every nut, bolt, washer and part on it AND I'm the guy riding down that nice country road on a beautiful 70 Triumph Bonneville just like you're going to be!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I think the trick to getting a bike rebuilt is to do something every day - no matter how small - can be 2 minutes work or all day ! -- but i must be getting soft in my old age - cant get motivated to work in a cold garage these days - but plan is to finish the bike before the summer ends (this year)
have been owning .building and riding Meriden Triumphs for best part of 50 years (say it quickly and it dont sound so much ) - but still finding stuff i didnt know
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Just moved the battery carrier mounting to the other side of the oil tank tab - now it looks wrong in the other direction - at least it is now slightly wider (more space for packing round the battery)
 

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You've worked on Triumphs for 50 years? Hell you're a professional Triumph mechanic!

Fun to watch yor progress since I can relate to your bike so much. Fun to see other bikes too come back from the dead but it's more fun when it's a bike just like yours.....to me anyway. Thanks for the build thread and keep the photos coming!......Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #38
heated the crankcases and dropped the new main bearings in -- gearbox output bearing was good - took it out cleaned and double checked it before putting it back in

(oven looks suspiciously like the one in my kitchen)
 

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Discussion Starter #39
did a "dry run" assembly of the crankcases - found one blind tapped hole to be almost completely stripped - so fitted a helicoil type insert - clocked up my bench drill table to ensure it was level to the spindle (at least as good as i could on Chinese built kit) - then drilled it out and used it to start the tap -- found anothe suspect thread on the cylinder head - but thats a job for another day
 

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Discussion Starter #40
stripped and rebuilt the rear light assembly and the under tank reflectors --- rear light was straight forward but the lens has a small chip out of the top edge - will not show a white light so good to use - its an original Lucas so prefered over a repro ( replacement original good lens are demanding silly money)

the under tank reflectors were more fun ! --- bike did not come with any so got some used "original" ones from two different sources --- the one was all OK and probably 100% original and in good order just needing a strip down / clean and paint
-- the other however proved to be "interesting" -- the lens was original but during disassembly it decided to self destruct - there is a flange all around the edge that clips into the rubber housing - this flange removed itself from the main front disc and also broke into about 6 pieces ( "oh dear" - or thoughts to that effect)
luckily the pieces stayed stuck to the piece of reflective backing disc - so with a little persuading they lined up and the front disc slotted neatly into place -- bit of epoxy and it was one piece again and none of the damege is visible when assembled - the rubber i believe is not original as it does not have LUCAS in raised letter like the other one - and is a looser fit in the metal housing - the metal housing appears to match the other so may be original

Chrome on both is good and probably original
 

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