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Discussion Starter #1
Latest project
This is how it arrived - it is now in the garage being threatend with spanners
engine runs - sort of ! -- everything needs a severe looking at
questions and info requests will start soon
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it needs a rebuild -i always strip my "project" bikes to the last nut and bolt - i need to know that whats inside the engine is good - but i am not going to be a slave to 100% originality - its primarily for riding - the end result will look pretty much standard -
 

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Discussion Starter #4
First question - headlamp mounting -- can anyone offer dimensions on the spacers that fit between the headlamp and the "ears" of the bracket -- also the outside diameter of the washer that fits with the domed fixing bolt - thanks
 

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Hi Wol,

headlamp mounting
dimensions on the spacers that fit between the headlamp and the "ears" of the bracket
On my T150, 5/16" ID (nominal bolt OD), 5/8" OD (a little less than the width inside the top and bottom edges of the "ears" as the corners are curved so you don't want the OD of the spacers digging into your new paint or powder-coat when you tighten everything?), 5/16" thick.

I came up with the thickness by: assembling the headlamp shell loosely between the "ears" without any spacers, pushing the headlamp shell gently against one "ear", measuring gap between the shell and the other "ear", adding the 'depth' of the "ears" (because the spacers fit between top and bottom edges). Then I had two spacers turned out of 5/8" OD ally or stainless round bar, thickness of each half the above calculation.

I have all headlamp spacers 'made to measure' after finding off-the-shelf dimensions were crap - usually too thin so, when mounting bolts were tightened, the ears were being squeezed together - not so much of problem (but still undesirable) on '71-on rubber-mounted ears, definitely not ok on the pre'-71 fabricated ears/shrouds. :(

Also, that way I can have the spacers made of stainless or lightweight ;) ally - no shonky plating to fall off and bare steel to rust.

domed fixing bolt
:confused: More info.?

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Stuart -- your description seems to put into words exactly what was going through my mind - so will make some to fit correctly -- the Domed bolt i refered to is the bolt through the "ear" into the headlamp - i believe the factory item was a chrome plated domed bolt - again for that i will probably modify a S/S bolt and use a washer that looks right
 

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Hi Wol,

the Domed bolt i refered to is the bolt through the "ear" into the headlamp - i believe the factory item was a chrome plated domed bolt - again for that i will probably modify a S/S bolt
:Darn Duh, I was thinking of the shape of a "domed" nut ...

Fwiw, I got the bolts in stainless from Dave 'n' Richard Middleton - they sell 5/16"UNF x 1-1/8"UH Domed-head Hex. Setscrews - http://stainlessmiddleton.co.uk/21-unf.

use a washer that looks right
I use the Middletons' 5/16" Thick Washers - so they don't collapse into the slots in the "ears" - and 5/16" Nylon Washers between the stainless washers and the "ears" - so the stainless ones don't gouge the ears' paint or powder-coat. Fwiw, I also use 5/16" HD Spring Washers under the bolt heads - so I don't have to do the bolts up so tight to stop vibration altering the headlamp aim, but I can still push or pull the headlamp easily from the seat if I think the aim needs altering. :thumb

Then 1-1/8"UH doesn't poke inside the headlamp shell so much ... :)

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
good ideas on the various washers - will check out Middletons for domed head bolts - will need some longer ones for the lower yoke clamp too
 

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Discussion Starter #10
its an import from your side of the pond - main parts seem good - biggest question is the engine - does run without nasty noises but need to get inside it -- hope to start on it in the next few weeks -- bit of chrome - splash of paint - lots of man hours - job done - easy peasy
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It begins

Finally decided to make a start on stripping / inspecting
First job take the tank off -- already finding bodges and poor repairs -- it was evident when i got the bike that the rear tank fixing had been remade and welded on - it initially appeared that the only problem was that it need bending up slightly to sit level on the fixing rubber - Wrong ! - with the tank off i found one of the front fixing studs was at a slight angle and it is not the correct stud but a length of threaded rod - it will not easily unscrew ! - then i find the rear tab has it large hole too close to the tank and is not horizontal across the width of the tank -- so next step is to investigate the strange stud -- following that the rear tab needs cutting out and a correctly fitting one fabricated - - this means i need to weld the tank ! --- not done that before - lots of cleaning and purging with steam i believe !!
 

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I have a whole bunch of pictures from repairing the mounts on my own slimline tank. Let me know and I'll post them up.

As for purging the tank, stick the exhaust from your motorcar into the filler neck and run the engine for half hour.

Rod
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So i tried to straighten the dodgy stud - i noticed the metal was cracked so after more jiggling i remvoved the stud together with the insert to which it was fastened - the metal was very thin - possibly from over polishing/grinding in the past -- plan is to make a new threaded insert as part of a larger washer and braze that to the tank - will consider doing both mounts
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Rod - pics would be very welcome - trying to think up a way to hold the rear tab in place for welding - simple jig bolted to the petcock holes maybe

i think i will add exhaust gases to my list of ways to purge the tank - probably do all of them just in case
 

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You will be far better served using a MIG rather than braze. I will dig out the pics when I get a second they are hidden in a file I downloaded when Photobucket turned into Nazi's!

Your rear bracket is missing a hole to secure the centre chrome strip so remember to replicate that with your new bracket. For the front I removed the bottom of each tube completely and then cut two discs from 1/4 plate that I drilled and tapped, in your case 5/16 UNF. I then bolted my rear bracket and both metal discs to the frame with all new rubbers and correct hardware. Using a MIG meant I could correctly position the tank and tack everything in place before removing and finish welding.

I've removed enough brazed repairs from tanks for the idea to make me feel slightly sick to my stomach. It's your choice but please don't.

Rod
 

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First two pics are the 1/4 steel discs one turned to size so it fits nicely in the tube. The other is the new rear tab showing the hole you are missing for the chrome centre strip.



 

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Using a flat disc on a grinder you grind around the top edge of the tube until you see the metal open and the disc pops out.



Mount the rear tab and two discs to the frame with new rubbers and hardware, also have the ignition coils in place.



Check the tank is level and has sufficient clearance around the head stock, coils etc. Use at least three tacks on the each front mount to ensure they remain level. One good tack either side of the rear tab will suffice.
 

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You can see the rear tab sits at an angle that would be hard to replicate with out using the frame as a jig.

Remove the tank and finish weld





Finish the welds with a flap disc and prep for paint

 

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For interests sake this is a big home market tank with brazed repairs that required removal and the tank reconstructing







Hope it helps
Rod
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi Rod - thanks for the pics - very useful - it actually jogged my memory in that probably over 20 years ago i converted a 500 "export" tank to a 650 tank by fabricating the complete front mounts and a rear mount - i too used the frame as a jig but i made steel replicas of the rubber mounts to line it all up in case the heat from welding let things move -- i had a friend do the welding for that - unfortunatly the steel replica mounts are lost in time - will probably make some more
 
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