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Discussion Starter #21
7 plate kit? If it only takes 6 of each? Sorry just run me through lol and do they sell complete clutch kits (plates and all?) if so if anyone has any good links
And yes the brass washer on the back was heavily worn but bearing are in mint shaped
 

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7 plate kit? If it only takes 6 of each? Sorry just run me through lol and do they sell complete clutch kits (plates and all?) if so if anyone has any good links
The 7 plate clutch kit includes 7 new friction plates and one new plain plate, you use the kit with the six plain plates you already have. The friction plates are thinner than standard so it all fits in place of the standard six plate set up.

TRIUMPH 7 PLATE CLUTCH CONVERSION 1963-83 TIGER100 TR6 T120 TR7 T140 BONNEVILLE

Given that you’ll be replacing everything and probably won’t have 6 good plain plates I would fit a new standard clutch kit. With all new components and the lighter 500 clutch springs (part number 57-1560 for the 500, 57-1830 for the 650) provided it’s adjusted properly the clutch should be a delight to use.

TRIUMPH CLUTCH ASSEMBLY T 57-1935 1965-74 TIGER 90 5TA T100S T100C T100R

The links are for UK suppliers but the clutch kit is made by LF Harris and I’m sure it’ll be available closer to you. If you opt for the 7 plate kit there are a couple of sources and Don’s experience will be invaluable but I think you’ll need to buy all of the other parts individually, I haven’t seen a complete clutch kit configured with 7 plates though some retailers might be willing to put one together.

Chris
 

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Hi,
decoded my vin and had found out that it was made in oct,69 so I had suspicions that it would affect finding a proper manual. Being a 1970 and kinda being a hodgepodge of years does that make it anymore desirable?
From your posts so far, your actual bike doesn't appear to be "a hodgepodge", it's a '70.

The only thing I was trying to make clear is, when you refer to the workshop manual for something, essentially nothing before '69 applies to most of your bike, nothing before '67 applies to frame, swinging arm, tanks, etc. If you always check the end of any relevant manual Section for double-letter addenda, and follow the double-letter addenda rather than the corresponding single-letter sub-section, you should be fine. Nevertheless, as I posted before, if you're unsure, just post a question in the Forum; as you can see in this thread, no lack of 500 owners ... :)

TIGER OR TROPHY
Specifically, "Tiger 100" - Triumph Tiger 100 Decal - Gold - 4-1/2" x 15/16" when/if you get the specific '70 UK & General Export parts book, it's listed at the end of the "PANELS AND TWINSEAT" pages. :)

7 plate kit?
Mmmm ... 'fraid I disagree with both @TR7RVMan Don and @Rusty1 Chris ... the 7-plate kit doesn't offer specifically a 500 any mechanical advantage over the standard six plates, but might present you with mechanical difficulties a newbie doesn't need. Depends on your bike's primary cover to some extent:-

. Triumph weren't generous with space inside the C-range primary, making the cover deeper at least four times to my certain knowledge, not always when other changes were made to the cover. Despite this, it's quite easy to get the clutch adjuster screw to hit the slotted plug in the cover when the handlebar clutch lever's pulled, leading to all sorts of apparently-unconnected gear-changing problems. Amhikt :(

. If Chris has managed to fit the 7-plate kit in his T100 without the adjuster screw hitting the slotted plug when the handlebar clutch lever's pulled, it could be because his bike has the final and deepest iteration of the primary cover. Otoh, if your bike's cover is original, it isn't the final iteration, it isn't quite as deep as the final one ...

. Can you tell which cover your bike has? No. Could I tell? Yes, :) because I've seen the subtle difference between the last two covers and, offered the choice when I was building my T100, picked the latest cover.

. Absent being able to tell which cover your bike has, because the 7-plate clutch doesn't offer any advantage on a 500 (unlike Don's 750), unless Walridge tells you he/they can do a 7-plate clutch cheaper than a standard 6-plate and will help with any subsequent difficulties, ime and mho, go for standard.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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As always, if it works, just fit the same parts back. The standard clutch will work well for many years with no problems at all. In your case, it is all worn out so just buy the same parts and assemble. There will be no dramas, just a perfect clutch operation.
 

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If Chris has managed to fit the 7-plate kit in his T100 without the adjuster screw hitting the slotted plug when the handlebar clutch lever's pulled, it could be because his bike has the final and deepest iteration of the primary cover.
Mine's a 6 plate clutch Stuart though it has aftermarket orange MAP friction plates fitted. If/when I replace it I'll just fit a LF Harris standard kit, it'll be perfectly adequate. I was just explaining how the 7 plate option works in combination with existing plain plates but it's not an option I'd go for.

Chris
 

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Hi Chris,
Mine's a 6 plate clutch Stuart though it has aftermarket orange MAP friction plates fitted. If/when I replace it I'll just fit a LF Harris standard kit, it'll be perfectly adequate. I was just explaining how the 7 plate option works in combination with existing plain plates but it's not an option I'd go for.
:oops: Thanks for clarifying, apologies for my mistake; I've updated my previous post.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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I bought a Harris clutch drum about 25,000 miles ago and no wear in the slots at all that i can detect. The centre i am using cost £5 in a box of junk at a jumble so probably a genuine Triumph part. The plates i use are unbranded very low cost items and work perfectly. I have never had plates stick and never needed to pull in the lever to free a stuck clutch. Just fire up and put in gear with no crunching. Just get the adjustment right. Only non standard part is the alloy cover plate.
RIMG0476.JPG
RIMG0479.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hi,

From your posts so far, your actual bike doesn't appear to be "a hodgepodge", it's a '70.

The only thing I was trying to make clear is, when you refer to the workshop manual for something, essentially nothing before '69 applies to most of your bike, nothing before '67 applies to frame, swinging arm, tanks, etc. If you always check the end of any relevant manual Section for double-letter addenda, and follow the double-letter addenda rather than the corresponding single-letter sub-section, you should be fine. Nevertheless, as I posted before, if you're unsure, just post a question in the Forum; as you can see in this thread, no lack of 500 owners ... :)


Specifically, "Tiger 100" - Triumph Tiger 100 Decal - Gold - 4-1/2" x 15/16" when/if you get the specific '70 UK & General Export parts book, it's listed at the end of the "PANELS AND TWINSEAT" pages. :)


Mmmm ... 'fraid I disagree with both @TR7RVMan Don and @Rusty1 Chris ... the 7-plate kit doesn't offer specifically a 500 any mechanical advantage over the standard six plates, but might present you with mechanical difficulties a newbie doesn't need. Depends on your bike's primary cover to some extent:-

. Triumph weren't generous with space inside the C-range primary, making the cover deeper at least four times to my certain knowledge, not always when other changes were made to the cover. Despite this, it's quite easy to get the clutch adjuster screw to hit the slotted plug in the cover when the handlebar clutch lever's pulled, leading to all sorts of apparently-unconnected gear-changing problems. Amhikt :(

. If Chris has managed to fit the 7-plate kit in his T100 without the adjuster screw hitting the slotted plug when the handlebar clutch lever's pulled, it could be because his bike has the final and deepest iteration of the primary cover. Otoh, if your bike's cover is original, it isn't the final iteration, it isn't quite as deep as the final one ...

. Can you tell which cover your bike has? No. Could I tell? Yes, :) because I've seen the subtle difference between the last two covers and, offered the choice when I was building my T100, picked the latest cover.

. Absent being able to tell which cover your bike has, because the 7-plate clutch doesn't offer any advantage on a 500 (unlike Don's 750), unless Walridge tells you he/they can do a 7-plate clutch cheaper than a standard 6-plate and will help with any subsequent difficulties, ime and mho, go for standard.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #30
As it being a tiger or trophy, I have never seen the trophy sick in my bike but my tank has a sun faded Mark of a trophy 500 sticker. It’s all original paint but when I look in the manual it say tiger but when I spoke to British cycle supply and British cycle repair they both said trophy so I’m wondering if the tins were off another bike but the tank has the double fuel spigot set up
 

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Hi,
tank has the double fuel spigot set up
:confused: Do you mean the tank has only one tap outlet (on the left side looking forward aka "drive side") and a tap like this:-



... or the tank has two separate tap outlets and taps like this:-



... two separate tap outlets (and taps like the lower image) and "trophy 500" sticker, it's a tank off a US-market T100C.

Otoh, the bigger tank with the single tap outlet but with a "trophy 500" sticker, possibly a Canadian 'thing' at the time - importers could and did ask for differences from the parts book spec.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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I think I’m just gonna go for the stock set up! And next winter do the belt conversion!
The stock set up should last 20 years or more of leisure riding. Would you remove a new set up after 1 year just to replace with another one that does exactly the same job, ? The only real advantage of a belt primary is a slight reduction in engine noise. The Tiger 90 i used to look after for a mate of mine did not have the clutch apart in 20 years he owned it. On the smaller twins, they are not highly stressed. All those years and not even a need to adjust it or the primary chain tension.
Just trying to save you wasting your money on parts not needed.
 

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Hi All, To be clear the 7 plate kit & the original 6 plate all stacked together is the same thickness. They do this by using very thin friction pads. So the pressure plate ends up in same place.

That being said, the thickness of plates does not effect the end position of the rod adjuster screw. The slotted tip of screw location is a product of the position of ball cam or lever in trans cover, the length of rod, length of adjuster screw.

What changes with thickness of plates is how far the pressure plate is on the threads of screw.

One thing that's thrown me is using Emgo friction plates. They come thicker. So top steel plate ready to fall off drum. I recently learned Emgo steel plates are thinner to compensate. So Emgo should be used as complete set.

The 7 plate kit is 7 friction, 1 steel. If you need the other steel, you order 6 steel separately. The new steel can be different brand. I've done this more than a few times, it makes no difference. Do not roughen steel plates with either Hyde or Aerco 7 plate.

So far I've not heard of anyone going back to 6 plate after using 7 plate.

Get whatever plates you want, you have all the info now.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hi,

:confused: Do you mean the tank has only one tap outlet (on the left side looking forward aka "drive side") and a tap like this:-



... or the tank has two separate tap outlets and taps like this:-



... two separate tap outlets (and taps like the lower image) and "trophy 500" sticker, it's a tank off a US-market T100C.

Otoh, the bigger tank with the single tap outlet but with a "trophy 500" sticker, possibly a Canadian 'thing' at the time - importers could and did ask for differences from the parts book spec.

Hth.

Regards,
Like I said double
Hi,

:confused: Do you mean the tank has only one tap outlet (on the left side looking forward aka "drive side") and a tap like this:-



... or the tank has two separate tap outlets and taps like this:-



... two separate tap outlets (and taps like the lower image) and "trophy 500" sticker, it's a tank off a US-market T100C.

Otoh, the bigger tank with the single tap outlet but with a "trophy 500" sticker, possibly a Canadian 'thing' at the time - importers could and did ask for differences from the parts book spec.

Hth.

Regards,
No as I said it’s a double fuel spigots on each side of the tank
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Hi,

:confused: Do you mean the tank has only one tap outlet (on the left side looking forward aka "drive side") and a tap like this:-



... or the tank has two separate tap outlets and taps like this:-



... two separate tap outlets (and taps like the lower image) and "trophy 500" sticker, it's a tank off a US-market T100C.

Otoh, the bigger tank with the single tap outlet but with a "trophy 500" sticker, possibly a Canadian 'thing' at the time - importers could and did ask for differences from the parts book spec.

Hth.

Regards,
[/QUOTE
The stock set up should last 20 years or more of leisure riding. Would you remove a new set up after 1 year just to replace with another one that does exactly the same job, ? The only real advantage of a belt primary is a slight reduction in engine noise. The Tiger 90 i used to look after for a mate of mine did not have the clutch apart in 20 years he owned it. On the smaller twins, they are not highly stressed. All those years and not even a need to adjust it or the primary chain tension.
Just trying to save you wasting your money on parts not needed.
yes this was a point my father made it and its a very good one so I’m just gonna run stock! If it’s worked for years why change it
 
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