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Hi Mike,

Do you think my fork leg is shot?
No. Pretty-much every part (with the possible exception of the sliders?) is available brand-new. Problem is they're pattern parts, you'll be wise to do your own quality-control measurements from the workshop manual before you start assembling.

I'm not finding these for sale anywhere.
Depends how you're searching: you're unlikely to find "FORK ASSEMBLY" (complete with yokes), search with individual part numbers in the '73-on format - e.g. "triumph 97-3904" for stanchions.

Google says Baxter has the sliders (97-3921 and 97-3922) for $230 each ... dunno if they're new though ...

Certainly here in GB, those stanchions could be straightened, rechromed and ground back to size. 'Apparently' more-expensive than new stanchions but if whatever "new" kicking around the dealers is under- or over-size (regularly :bluduh) reclaiming originals might be less time-consuming - and would be less-expensive - than trying to make "new" work ... :cool:

Also be aware a new pattern stanchion might require a new top "Cap nut" - between '70 and '71, Triumph changed the thread from 26 tpi to 28 tpi; although '70 and '71 conical-hub stanchions aren't interchangeable, last pattern pre-'71 stanchions I had dealings with had 28 tpi threads ... :Not again

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #22
"Certainly here in GB, those stanchions could be straightened, rechromed and ground back to size."

I got a quote from EC Grinding in California of $224 per stanchion. I'm going to buy new. Thanks for the info, I know now what I need to be asking when ordering new stanchions and bearings.
 

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I'll PM you when I scrape up some play money, thanx.

You should be okay to re-use the fork leg, you might want to tape some foam to a long drill bit, and wrap the foam with emory cloth; zip it up and down for just a few seconds in a drill, and only near the bottom 3 inches or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I'll PM you when I scrape up some play money, thanx.

OK, I'll hang on to it for a while.

You should be okay to re-use the fork leg, you might want to tape some foam to a long drill bit, and wrap the foam with emory cloth; zip it up and down for just a few seconds in a drill, and only near the bottom 3 inches or so.
I have a 240 grit ball hone coming. I might try your method first though. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I used a 240 grit ball hone just enough to break the glaze on the inside of the fork legs. Did it using 10W fork oil. Did not remove all the longitudinal lines. I like the way they came out. I doubt that I removed a measurable amount of metal. We'll see I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
New fork tubes, bushings and seals arrived. UK made parts from Walridge at sale prices. Preliminary fit checks are good.
 
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