Thx Stuart. I'll get them from somewhere reputable, LP Williams probably if they have them, and check that radius. Given their condition, mine must be original so I'll be able to compare.Hi Andy,
Check them for the small stress-relief radius between the 3/8" OD that fits through the Metalastik and the wider handlebar clamp itself. Some pattern clamps don't have the radius.
I've started a new thread for your restoration - https://www.triumphrat.net/members-restoration-and-rebuild-projects/962570-73-tr7rv-in-71-t120r-frame-restoration.html.I'll be posting the story over the winter.
Thanks Andy - yeah it's a 1968 TR6 frame, but a previous owner (the one before the previous one) has grafted on a set of later forks from an OIF triple, with disc brake. This is how the bike came to me, and given it's not a matching numbers bike, and doesn't have original paint etc, I have opted not to return it back to standard, but to recommission the bike as is. Had it been a matching numbers bike and otherwise fairly original, I'd have sourced and fitted a correct set of forks and drum brake, as the 'finished' value would have reflected the additional money and time. As it stands though, the decision to restore it as a rider was an easy one, and gives me a bit more flexibility on the approach. My goal is a reliable, presentable runner to enjoy, and use on nice days, and to tinker with.That looks rather familiar, and rather nice too! My Tiger 750 has a 71 T120R OIF frame - the front end is identical. Awaiting further progress with great interest.
My 750 will come to bits shortly for a cosmetic restoration - all the black bits will be powder coated, and the engine apart for some Helicoils and a general furtle to see what condition it's in. Oh, and fix the oil leaks. It's a bike repatriated from Toronto last winter.
I think I'll get some new P clamps when I rebuild to see if that helps with the handlebar skew.
Ah ha! We are ad idem on that philosophy. My dilemma is just how far do you go? We don't have matching numbers, so the ultimate value is limited, but do I replace the slightly battered (but otherwise perfectly acceptable) headlight shell? Do I replace the scruffy plastic side panels or can I refurbish and make them look good enough? Choices, choices for a dark, wet, winter's night's contemplation over an Islay malt! Keep us posted on your decision-making?This is how the bike came to me, and given it's not a matching numbers bike, and doesn't have original paint etc, I have opted not to return it back to standard, but to recommission the bike as is. Had it been a matching numbers bike .................My goal is a reliable, presentable runner to enjoy, and use on nice days, and to tinker with.
I'm trying to balance keeping the costs to a minimum with a presentable level of cosmetic appearance, and also a decent standard of safety and reliability. Hence I made the decision to replace all fasteners with new for example.....................
The shame of it (although possibly an advantage for me) is that it was rebuilt about 200 miles before it was laid up. What won’t have done it any good at all though is the barrels were taken off about 10 years ago and the bottom end exposed to the elements. The bike was covered, but left outside.That engine is one of the cleanest pre-overhaul that I've seen!
I've just re-assembled the bottom end of my 73 TR7RV - see my thread on this forum. Like you, when I stripped it the t/s main is tight on the crank (as it should be) and I chickened out and since my cases were going to the restorer's for vapour blasting I left that little job to them.The crank is well and truly stuck in the timing side case and bearing. I tried a few hopeful taps with the rubber mallet on the end of the crank, but it didn’t budge. This seems to be quite common, and I’ll be working through the various suggestions on the forum to free it.
Cheers Andy. Been following your thread. Looks like a great project and you’re making good progress with it.I've just re-assembled the bottom end of my 73 TR7RV - see my thread on this forum. Like you, when I stripped it the t/s main is tight on the crank (as it should be) and I chickened out and since my cases were going to the restorer's for vapour blasting I left that little job to them.
They gave me back the crank and cases dis-assembled. On offering up the t/s crank journal to that t/s main bearing, it won't fit. I heated the bearing up for about 10 minutes with a hot air gun on hot and the crank dropped right in with no persuasion necessary.
Try a bit of heat - IIRC from A level physics many years ago, the hole expands with heat, so that may free it enough to be able to tap it out. Or leave it to the vapour blasters!