[Dr. Zo]

Hi,

Mmmm ... given the relative dimensions in the photo. of the hole in the middle, the distance between the smaller holes and the thickness, "30 mm" has to refer to the ID of the large hole, which also concurs with the "Triumph BSA Norton" in the listing title, none used a 30 mm. thick spacer.

'69 650 parts book lists "E2968 Insulating block", Googling "triumph 70-2968" returns numerous listings on this side of The Pond; any difficulty on your side?

Hth.

Regards.

Of course - you got me again - diameter of the opening - Ha.

 

[Dr. Zo]

I could use some advice on my carburetor install again. So my tank petcocks impinge on the Amals. I would think this may have happened to others before me and so I aim looking for a good solutions to get this all to fit. I am assuming the carbs should be oriented vertically straight, rather that canted to make room? Thank you for any advice.

 

[GrandPaulZ]

Turn the petcocks with the levers to the rear.

 

[newsh]

Hi

The “ear” on the carb should sit behind the petcock.

1/ Can you screw the inlet stubs further into the cylinder head?

2/ Perhaps your repro tank has the petcock positioned too far forward or at the wrong angle? Original tanks have the petcock angled back a little.

3/ How does the other carb fit?


You can see in this pic (sorry its blurry) how close it is and the position/angle of the petcock. You can also see he has the insulating spacer/gasket between carb and inlet stub which is essential.

 

[Dr. Zo]

Turn the petcocks with the levers to the rear.

OK, good advice. Still have some clearance issues I will need to tweak.

 

[Dr. Zo]

Hi

The “ear” on the carb should sit behind the petcock.

1/ Can you screw the inlet stubs further into the cylinder head?

2/ Perhaps your repro tank has the petcock positioned too far forward or at the wrong angle? Original tanks have the petcock angled back a little.

3/ How does the other carb fit?


You can see in this pic (sorry its blurry) how close it is and the position/angle of the petcock. You can also see he has the insulating spacer/gasket between carb and inlet stub which is essential.

Thanks, the photo is helpful. It is a repro tank and I suppose that is part of the problem. Although I spoke to the folks at Lowbrow and it seems the clearance on petcocks, as well as throttle cables, is commonly a problem. I will try to tweak it this way and that and may have enough room to fit things properly.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

tank petcocks impinge on the Amals.
View attachment 784055 View attachment 784056

repro tank has the petcock positioned too far forward

+1.

Fwiw, imho taps in the current positions will give you problems down the line - certainly initially, you'll be surprised how far the 650 vibes do move components. Be a shame to have put in all the work you have then find the bike's unusable for any length of time at sensible rpm because it vibrates the carbs. against the taps?

spoke to the folks at Lowbrow and it seems the clearance on petcocks, as well as throttle cables, is commonly a problem.

So why don't they lean on the tank maker to fix it?

If you use your preferred internet search engine to find images of contemporary T100's and US-market T150's, you'll see Triumph put those bikes' taps even further back than in @newsh John's '69 T120R photo., more on the rear bottom corners, so the (same) taps point even further back, away from any possibility of clashing with the carbs. The T150 tank even used the contemporary TR6R shell. Surely everyone at Lowbrow can't be ignorant of all this?

Hth.

Regards,

 

[Dr. Zo]

Hi,



+1.

Fwiw, imho taps in the current positions will give you problems down the line - certainly initially, you'll be surprised how far the 650 vibes do move components. Be a shame to have put in all the work you have then find the bike's unusable for any length of time at sensible rpm because it vibrates the carbs. against the taps?


So why don't they lean on the tank maker to fix it?

If you use your preferred internet search engine to find images of contemporary T100's and US-market T150's, you'll see Triumph put those bikes' taps even further back than in @newsh John's '69 T120R photo., more on the rear bottom corners, so the (same) taps point even further back, away from any possibility of clashing with the carbs. The T150 tank even used the contemporary TR6R shell. Surely everyone at Lowbrow can't be ignorant of all this?

Hth.

Regards,

SM, yes, I am thinking that with the taps so close there is likely to be enough vibration to have them rubbing against one another so I need to get a bit more space. I think on these issues that Lowbrow is aware, however they are retailers for most/all parts they sell, such as the taps. I think a main part of my problem is the aftermarket tank is a bit tight on its dimensions. However when measuring the new tank against the old one (rusted out), the dimensions seem to be the same. It may be do to changing the carbs out and getting a new manifold, as the originals were shot.

 

[Dr. Zo]

Wiring questions. I am beginning to wire my bike and arm asking for advice. I have a headlight (hi/lo beam), tach and speedo with illumination, tail light, and a pazon ignition with a podtronics regulator/rectifier. I’ve got new coils, 2 6 volt, and the coils, and pazon are installed and the bike is timed statically. The lights and gauges has small male bullet type connectors on the wiring. I’m planning on a single point negative ground. So my questions revolve around what type of connectors are good/best to use when connecting all the electrical components. Also, as this seems to be a bit of a challenge for me, any advice on how to approach this, like what to do first, second and so on. I know there is quite a bit on-line about this, but a lot varies. Oh, I am thinking of using a 3 position switch or 2 toggles (one to turn on ignition and brake light, the second to turn on lights). Thanks for any help.

 

[Dr. Zo]

Tachometer and Speedometer: I bought a mini tach and speedo that I have installed on my 1969 T120R. These are from Lowbrow and I thought they would work OK. However, the standard Triumph tach cable does not work with this - the standard cable has a square male fitting and these mini instruments need a round cable fitting. So I am wondering if anyone has used something like this before? Is there an adapter available to make these work on my 1969 tack drive and speedo drive? Any comments are appreciated.

 

[GrandPaulZ]

I don't see how a round cable could work. As far as I know, there are only square-ended meter drive cables.

Too bad the meter faces don't align vertically...

 

[Dr. Zo]

I don't see how a round cable could work. As far as I know, there are only square-ended meter drive cables.

Too bad the meter faces don't align vertically...

The initial opening is round, but there is some kind of feature for the cable to impinge upon, it is just not clear from the photo, seems to be a flat os some kind.

 

[Dr. Zo]

On the chance that I cannot get my “mini” tach and speedo to work with this bike . . . are there any other options for instruments rather than the original or replica smiths items? Thank for any help.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

bought a mini tach and speedo
from Lowbrow
Is there an adapter available to make these work on my 1969 tack drive and speedo drive?

What do Lowbrow say?

any other options for instruments rather than the original or replica smiths

Electronic? This company does electronic version of Smiths heads, triggered by different types of sender that afacit can be attached to original Smiths speedo. and tacho. drive gearboxes. 'Fraid no idea if they'll supply senders for use with other electronic speedos./tachos. but their website has a contact email addy.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[Dr. Zo]

So, I’m looking for some advice on troubleshooting a failure to start. I got my bike all put together, oiled and gassed. Went through the procedure with my carbs, no leaks but fuel tickled out. Power in the battery, etc, so as far as I knew it should kick over. It kicks over, just not getting any ignition. So advice on the best way to troubleshoot this newly re-built motor to see what the problem is. Thanks.

 

[GrandPaulZ]

Start with pulling the plugs and checking for spark. Next, check to ensure the ignition timing is set properly. Before you move on, swap the two leads from the ignition stator plate.

Report back.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

troubleshooting a failure to start

Start with pulling the plugs and checking for spark.

Next, check to ensure the ignition timing is set properly. Before you move on, swap the two leads from the ignition stator plate.

If the plugs are sparking, Paul is thinking of a problem with the the similar Boyer-Bransden EI:-

. Bransden sometimes connects the Black/White and Black/Yellow wires incorrectly on the B-B equivalent what the Pazon fitting instructions call the "ignition trigger";

. when the BW and BY wires from what Pazon calls the "ignition module" are connected to the "ignition trigger" colours like-for-like, the spark timing is miles out;

. fwiw, I've not known or heard of Pazon making the same internal connection mistake on their "ignition trigger"?

Otoh, if the plugs are not sparking:-

single point negative ground

. Have you connected the Pazon "ignition module" White wire to this or directly to the battery -ve terminal? Fwiw, I would've done the latter, through a 5A fuse.

. Two separate coils, "ignition module": Black wire is connected only to one coil's -ve terminal, Red wire is connected only to the other coil's +ve terminal?

. Otoh, only one coil with two HT leads, "ignition module" Black wire is connected to the coil's -ve terminal or wire, Red wire is connected to the coil's +ve terminal or wire?

. Wire to the ignition switch or separate kill switch is connected only to the same coil terminal or wire as the "ignition module" Red wire?

. All switches on, you can measure battery Volts between battery -ve and every connection from coil +ve (second of two) through all switch connections to battery +ve?

If making these latter checks, be aware Pazon does the the same as B-B - having powered-up the EI and coil(s), if the ignition module doesn't "detect engine movement" - signals from the ignition trigger because the exhaust cam is rotating the "magnetic rotor" - after a few seconds, the ignition module will cut power to the coil(s) ... after which measurement between battery -ve and anywhere else become meaningless ... The only way to restore power to the ignition circuit for another period of testing is either turn the ignition switch off and back on again or kick the engine over ...

Hth.

Regards,

 

[Dr. Zo]

OK, thanks for the troubleshooting advice. Checked my wiring and wasn’t getting any power to the coils. I fixed that and tried again with great success. After a few kicks I got it running good enough to ride a bit and is sounds quite loud and strong. I’ll be needing to adjust the idle and then take it out to get it heated up a bit in the next day or so. Thanks for all the great help with this project. I’m sure I’ll be needing more soon as I work to get the bike running at it’s best! If I could figure out how to put a video on the site I would.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

If I could figure out how to put a video on the site I would.

Bottom line of the reply box, click on the three dots to the right of the smiley face; drop-down box displayed, click on "Media", follow the destructions ...

Hth.

Regards,

 

[Dr. Zo]

Hi,

Bottom line of the reply box, click on the three dots to the right of the smiley face; drop-down box displayed, click on "Media", follow the destructions ...

Hth.

Regards,

thanks Stuart. I have a video from my iPhone and apparently the media allowed is only from the sites noted in the instructions, such as utube, twitter, etc - urls from those sites.