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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed a new clutch basket in my 1960 bonne.
I put about 60 miles on it and it ran great. Went to check the primary chain freeplay and noticed the clutch basket was moving. I took the primary cover off to see what was up. I pulled on the basket and it moves in and out about a 1/16 inch maybe more. I also noticed that the chain rivits cut into the thin metal ring around the outside of the basket, but only on about 6 inches of the circumference. I took off the primary chain and kicked it over and the basket wobbles. I thought maybe the new basket was defective cause it wasn't straight to start with, so I put the old basket back on and kicked it over. Same thing, it wobbles. To get the back primary cover off I broke the hub that the basket's rubber splines on to. I used a home made puller. It snapped a piece of the back of the hub off so I welded an old socket to the hub with a nut welded to the top and put in a bolt and the hub came right out. Guess I should have bought the tool!! Turns out a new hub isn't available so my parts guy found me a used one. I didn't buy new bearing balls for the basket. Is the transmission shaft bent? Are the ball bearings bad? I also noticed that the basket cut a very fine line on the inside of the primary cover. The transmission seal doesn't leak. Should I just keep on riding this way or will there be a catastrophe?
 

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set up a pointer [a bit of 8 gauge wire looped around one of your primary case cover bolts would do it] and then kick the bike over to see if the main shaft is bent, if it is, its gearbox rebuilt time.
Its possible that a gearbox rebuild could fix it [new bearings etc] but I'd put $$$$ on the main shaft being bent. Is there any signs of a rear chain having 'let go'?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
what do you mean by rear chain let go? Should I take the clutch basket out to check it this way?
 

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Hi Davetile, Firstly we need one or two photos of the bike, (lol) and maybe some photos of the damage. Well I am not 100% sure I understand the problem other that the wobble.
I think the only way the clutch hub can wobble is:-

1. The ball bearings are knackered, the shaft where they run up is worn, and the inner surface of the basket is damaged or worn. Replace all the ball bearings.
2. The retaining nut and washer has come loose or does not pull completely into position with a damaged thread.
3. The clutch basket that you replaced is ever so slightly different from the genuine part.
4. You are inserting one (1) ball raiser short i.e. 19 instead of 20.
5. The bearing carrier between the shaft and the clutch bearing face is warn.

Why did you replace the clutch in the first place? What was it doing?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the clutch was slipping and the slots that fit the clutch plate teeth in the basket were severely worn. the clutch plates were slapping back and forth in the basket. After I broke the original hub trying to take it off with out the proper tool I had to buy a a used hub cause can't get a new one anymore. I installed a new basket,new clutches and pressure plates on a used hub with used bearings. I noticed the wobble after I checked chain freeplay after 100 miles. I took apart and put old basket back and it wobbles too.
 

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There may be other factor that also has an influence on the clutch that I have not mentioned. Make sure of point 5. Replace all the bearings and let’s see how that comes out.

To adjust the clutch wobble I use a welding rod sharpened on one point and bent at 90 degrees about 2" from that point taped to the break leaver pointing to the clutch plate to check the wobble.


Still waiting for the photos.
 

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what do you mean by rear chain let go? Should I take the clutch basket out to check it this way?
If a rear chain broke during use and then bunched up between the primary and the gearbox you'd see some damage - this a reasonably common thing, can happen on nearly any bike [with a rear chain]. Depending on the speed and momentum, the damage can be severe, broken cases, bulging primary, bent mainshaft etc etc.

Ideally you would use a dial gauge, set it up on a made up bracket and check for run out. But a simple way to do this if you don't have such equipment is to use a wire pointer with the point as close to the main shaft as possible and then spin the mainshaft [by kicking it over] and check for any wobble by eye. I'd do this while you have it apart and before you begin re assembly.

If you main shaft is straight [not bent], and if you cannot move it up and down [in and out say 1/16" is Ok], then start assembly taking heed of what bushy has said.
 

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Also checking, did you use the rollers off a Triumph spares shop, or did you get them at a bearing place? because the rollers are a 'large' 1/4" size and can't be swapped for generic ones.
 
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