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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 Street Triple (standard, latest gen) and have put 2013 Daytona (standard) forks on.

When tightening the spindle nut, I noticed that it bottomed out fairly far in and there was still about a 1mm gap between the wheel spacer and the fork. After some research, I found that the Daytona and the Street Triple R both have a different internal wheel spacer in the front wheel! I don't know the size, but I'm thinking this must be my problem, so the front wheels between the non-R and the R/Daytona are not compatible. I'm thinking even if I try to swap the internal wheel spacer, the groves for the bearings must be different to accommodate the internal spacer...

Does anyone have any input or recommendations? Could I compensate with slightly larger external wheel spacers (I'm not even sure where to get the ones I'd need)?
 

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http://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triumph_2013_Street-Triple675/_50019_5784225/Front-Wheel/100061867-0-2.html
http://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triumph_2013_Street-Triple675/_50019_5779949/Front-Wheel/100061021-2-2.html
http://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triumph_2013_Street-TripleR/_50019_5779950/Front-Wheel/100061999-0-2.html
http://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triumph_2013_Street-TripleR/_50019_5784224/Front-Wheel/100061244-1-2.html

Here you can check part numbers for the non-R and R wheels.

There's a different page depending on the VIN, so keep an eye on that as well.

I'm pretty sure the wheel itself will be the same for the non-R, R and Daytona.
I don't think they produced different wheels for the different bikes, would cost too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
http://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triumph_2013_Street-Triple675/_50019_5784225/Front-Wheel/100061867-0-2.html
http://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triumph_2013_Street-Triple675/_50019_5779949/Front-Wheel/100061021-2-2.html
http://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triumph_2013_Street-TripleR/_50019_5779950/Front-Wheel/100061999-0-2.html
http://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triumph_2013_Street-TripleR/_50019_5784224/Front-Wheel/100061244-1-2.html

Here you can check part numbers for the non-R and R wheels.

There's a different page depending on the VIN, so keep an eye on that as well.

I'm pretty sure the wheel itself will be the same for the non-R, R and Daytona.
I don't think they produced different wheels for the different bikes, would cost too much.
That's interesting... I'm not sure where I got off there but for some reason I was sure I read a different part # between the non-R and the R. Thanks for alerting me to this!

It turns out there is just a different part number for the internal spacer with the Daytona models, T2003511 (ST) vs T2003510 (Daytona).

So my fork/wheel spacing issue is either caused by a different triple tree design or this internal wheel spacer. I contacted someone on craigslist to build some custom external spacers that will be a couple mm longer on each end to compensate for the difference.
 

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A different triple tree design could be the cause for a different size internal spacer.

Just make sure the wheel is centered propperly with the external spacers.
Other option would be to buy the internal spacer for a daytona and you would be good to go if all other parts are identical.
 

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Don't touch the internal spacer. It is meant for that wheel.
The triple trees are likely a little wider, which would account for the extra space. New external spacers are the way to go. Like DME3 said, make sure the wheel is centered. I would order new external spacers from Triumph. If there is only a spacer on one side, you should compare the axles to make sure they are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Don't touch the internal spacer. It is meant for that wheel.
The triple trees are likely a little wider, which would account for the extra space. New external spacers are the way to go. Like DME3 said, make sure the wheel is centered. I would order new external spacers from Triumph. If there is only a spacer on one side, you should compare the axles to make sure they are the same.
Yes, I think that the internal spacer is setup to be aligned with the groves for the bearings, so a new spacer wouldn't work (and it's kinda costly to try).

Since I need a longer spacer, I think I'll have them machined from scratch. If I bought new spacers from Triumph that were long enough, I'd probably need to have them machined down anyways (unless someone knows of spacers that are 26-27mm. The wheel should be centered if the spacers are exactly the same length... right? Thanks for the help!
 

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I want to say that gap is normal. I'm not sure we are talking about the same gap but the fork does not butt up against the wheel after the spindle is tightened. This is to ensure the forks are straight.. so after you tighten the spindle you bounce the fork and then tighten the fork on the spindle.

Do not push the fork snug to close the gap and then tighten... this will cause forks to not be parallel and they won't move smoothly like they should.

My front fork on a stock 2014 triple R has a slight gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I want to say that gap is normal. I'm not sure we are talking about the same gap but the fork does not butt up against the wheel after the spindle is tightened. This is to ensure the forks are straight.. so after you tighten the spindle you bounce the fork and then tighten the fork on the spindle.

Do not push the fork snug to close the gap and then tighten... this will cause forks to not be parallel and they won't move smoothly like they should.

My front fork on a stock 2014 triple R has a slight gap.
Does it look like this on one side of the forks?

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I want to say yes... but I'll check when I get home.
Definitely check, I don't think that should be there. I just reattached my front wheel to my old forks for making measurements and there was no gap. The spacers should be flush against the fork. If they aren't the wheel won't be centered.
 

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So , just took a picture of my 2014 triple R... it does have a gap but less than yours. The spacer doesn't spin meaning it is seated fully by the spindle.

I did notice though that my fork bottom seems to be backwards compared to yours? Makes me think the bottom is spun out 180 degrees. Take a look at my pic... the spindle comes in from the left hand side of the bike but my picture is taken from the front of the bike where yours looks like it is from the engine side of the wheel.

EDIT... the daytona 675 and triple R are backwards in terms of spindle.. so ignore what I just said about that.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
So , just took a picture of my 2014 triple R... it does have a gap but less than yours. The spacer doesn't spin meaning it is seated fully by the spindle.

I did notice though that my fork bottom seems to be backwards compared to yours? Makes me think the bottom is spun out 180 degrees. Take a look at my pic... the spindle comes in from the left hand side of the bike but my picture is taken from the front of the bike where yours looks like it is from the engine side of the wheel.

EDIT... the daytona 675 and triple R are backwards in terms of spindle.. so ignore what I just said about that.

That's interesting... it will fully seat but I think the spindle pushes the wheel to the side where the threads of the spindle are. I can get carried away sometimes and I'm not actually sure how much that can affect the geometry of the suspension. If you loosen the two bolts that hold in the spindle, I wonder if the fork would push more against the spacer. Those two bolts just grip onto the spindle.

After some more measurements, I'm having the machinist replicate the spacers, but each spacer will be 25.85mm (vs 25mm) long to compensate for the gap which is at least 1.6mm when the spindle is torqued. I'll post an update this weekend for those who are curious.
 

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That's interesting... it will fully seat but I think the spindle pushes the wheel to the side where the threads of the spindle are. I can get carried away sometimes and I'm not actually sure how much that can affect the geometry of the suspension. If you loosen the two bolts that hold in the spindle, I wonder if the fork would push more against the spacer. Those two bolts just grip onto the spindle.

After some more measurements, I'm having the machinist replicate the spacers, but each spacer will be 25.85mm (vs 25mm) long to compensate for the gap which is at least 1.6mm when the spindle is torqued. I'll post an update this weekend for those who are curious.
Yes, those two bolts just grip the spindle. Remember what I said about keeping them loose and then bouncing on the suspension? That allows the fork to not be bolted on at an angle... This is part of the design.

Grab the bottom of the fork and you should be able to push it around with your hands a little. Now don't snug it and then tighten it. I'm just mentioning this so you understand how the bottom of the forks work.

Watch this video... at 1:20 is what I'm talking about

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes, those two bolts just grip the spindle. Remember what I said about keeping them loose and then bouncing on the suspension? That allows the fork to not be bolted on at an angle... This is part of the design.

Grab the bottom of the fork and you should be able to push it around with your hands a little. Now don't snug it and then tighten it. I'm just mentioning this so you understand how the bottom of the forks work.

Watch this video... at 1:20 is what I'm talking about

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0dkpQJREno
Very interesting video!

In my case, I know the internal spacer between the Daytona wheel and the ST wheel are different somehow (or they made a different part # only for the spacer for some reason). My concern is that when I attach the normal forks to the wheel, they meet flush with the spacers on both sides. However, when using the Daytona forks, it's not flush and the spindle goes in quite far to press the first spacer. I'm thinking this is due to the different spacer inside the wheel or a difference in the triple tree.

Having it flush with the spacers on both sides while the spindle is pushing against the spacer should help ensure that the wheel is centered between the forks. If there is a gap when equal spacers are used on both sides, that might be an indication that the wheel is not centered, as in my case. The video assumes the both spacers are setup correctly for that motorcycle (the spacer that is pinched is the correct size). Unfortunately that is not the case here, so the wheel may be off center since the wrong spacing is in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have you put the caliper on to see if it is going to line up with the discs? Also the ABS sensor gap?
No I have not, however I'm using new radial calipers which have been depressed so there is a lot of play. Calipers will allow for that small of difference, I think. My main concern was alignment of the front-back wheel.

I've been discussing this in another thread today and some people say they have a gap and other say there is no gap. My original forks have no gaps when attached to the wheel (hence why I was looking into this). I shared your image with the forum, I hope you don't mind.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4802809#post4802809

At this point I'm going to get slightly large wheel spacers done still just for peace of mind (and since I was already working with the guy). That way alignment will be perfect between the forks. The alignment might be OK with how far off it is now, but a smaller gap means more centered.
 

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No I have not, however I'm using new radial calipers which have been depressed so there is a lot of play. Calipers will allow for that small of difference, I think. My main concern was alignment of the front-back wheel.

I've been discussing this in another thread today and some people say they have a gap and other say there is no gap. My original forks have no gaps when attached to the wheel (hence why I was looking into this). I shared your image with the forum, I hope you don't mind.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4802809#post4802809

At this point I'm going to get slightly large wheel spacers done still just for peace of mind (and since I was already working with the guy). That way alignment will be perfect between the forks. The alignment might be OK with how far off it is now, but a smaller gap means more centered.
You could still get a feel for if the disc is centered in the caliper blocks. Since you are going to the effort of centering the wheel and all might as well be sure that what you assume is center is actually center. Your fork could actually just be ever so slightly bent... have you checked to make sure the forks are true?

I don't think you'll be accomplishing much of anything by moving the wheel over 2 mm. But, if it eases your mind then fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You could still get a feel for if the disc is centered in the caliper blocks. Since you are going to the effort of centering the wheel and all might as well be sure that what you assume is center is actually center. Your fork could actually just be ever so slightly bent... have you checked to make sure the forks are true?

I don't think you'll be accomplishing much of anything by moving the wheel over 2 mm. But, if it eases your mind then fine.
I picked up the spacers yesterday and it's centered perfectly now between the forks. I have not checked for bent forks, but I read I can do that fairly easily. If they were seriously bent I think I would have had an issue loading them into the triple trees or have seen some damage on the forks. However, on the forum post I liked above another user switched to the Ohlins forks and had the same gap. I think this has to do with the internal spacer that is a different part number in the Daytona wheel - maybe not. Everything else is the same.

While I agree that I think it would ride fine with the wheels not exactly centered between the forks, I'm glad I had slightly longer spacers made.
 
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