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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Im still having porblems with the 99 1200.
Please help before I burn it.
So far its had
new coils & leads
fuel line
vac lines
carb ballance
fuel tap diaphram
Its been back to a main dealer twice. Its O.K. untill it gets a long run then it cuts out below 1500 revs.

The dealer was usless, having paid for work. Took it back to be told it needed the same work. Ie. we needed to reroute the vac lines. it needs the carbs ballanced / cleaned.

I did run out of fuel so I am woried I may have dirt in the pilot jets?

It was suggested it might be tight valves.

Any ideas? Its a great bike to ride everything else is fine. It pulls well its just the stalling.

Mike
 

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It sounds like you have done the "easy" things. Do a compression check, you might have a bad cylinder. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Spray "carb cleaner" around carbs and rubber boots (to head) and listen for an RPM increase. Spray in area of head gasket before she gets too warm.
Hope this helps
Mark
 

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stalling

Hi Im still having porblems with the 99 1200.
Please help before I burn it.
So far its had
new coils & leads
fuel line
vac lines
carb ballance
fuel tap diaphram
Its been back to a main dealer twice. Its O.K. untill it gets a long run then it cuts out below 1500 revs.

The dealer was usless, having paid for work. Took it back to be told it needed the same work. Ie. we needed to reroute the vac lines. it needs the carbs ballanced / cleaned.

I did run out of fuel so I am woried I may have dirt in the pilot jets?

It was suggested it might be tight valves.

Any ideas? Its a great bike to ride everything else is fine. It pulls well its just the stalling.

Mike
check that the choke mechanism is not sticking, or the cable is badly adjusted .I had the same problem on my 900.It only needs the choke to be fractionally closed to cause your symptoms when hot. greybeard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks I will try them all

I forgot to mention I replaced the carb inlet rubbers, and replaced the air filter with a K&N.

I will try all your ideas. Thank god you guys have some new ones!

Mike
 

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Air, fuel, electricity. These things are pretty simple, we make them complicated.
Igniters
Crank sensors
Ignition cut-offs
Etc,etc.
Sounds like you've handled the electrical side other than the crank sensor thing.
The air issue is pretty straight forward, not much to go wrong there other than the aforementioned choke adjustment.
That leaves the fuel.
You've done new fuel and vac lines, petcock diaphram, carb work.
She starts and idles when cold and won't idle when hot. Does she start easily when hot?
Either it's temp related or a time issue.
If temp than bring the electrics back into play.
If time I tend to go fuel.
Fuel tank vent in the cap. Over time a vacuum is created insde the tank, restricting output.
Carb fuel filters, may possibly be restricting fuel flow.
These things are fed by vacuum and gravity, any restriction along the line will show up at idle when the vacuum level is the lowest.

Please excuse the long reply, thinking as I write.
Hope it's a simple fix. The problem with Trophy's is that Techs always go for the most common repairs, coils, carbs, ......
These are also expensive. They'll spend our money in a trial and error approach. I go the other route, slow down and investigate.

Carry on!
 

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A friend with a daytona 900 has an identical problem I just posted in the daytona section for him..

It seems to me that if it was the tank valve then fuel starvation would kill the engine completely and the rev's would be dependant.

Time and temperature and inextricably linked, which is part of the problem. That mechanical and electrical.
Over heating ignition coils, would cause a misfire most times.
And as all the other things have been replaced the crank position sensor (pickup?) has to be the answer.. ???
 

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"It seems to me that if it was the tank valve then fuel starvation would kill the engine completely and the rev's would be dependant."

Not nessesarily. The greater vacumm could be overcoming the resistance of the vent blockage. Simple test. Is there suction when the filler cap is opened?

It's probably not that simple of a cure but it's free to check it out.
Carry on!
 

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"It seems to me that if it was the tank valve then fuel starvation would kill the engine completely and the rev's would be dependant."

Not nessesarily. The greater vacumm could be overcoming the resistance of the vent blockage. Simple test. Is there suction when the filler cap is opened?

It's probably not that simple of a cure but it's free to check it out.
Carry on!

Ummm you could be right on both counts of course. But unless I am wrong the intake vacuum draws fuel from the bowl but only gravity is involved getting the fuel into the bowl, so more vacuum wouldnt effect the fuel delivery unless it was a tap problem. The low RPM might not be enough to either open the vacuum taps ?

Dammit..it still does it on prime so it cant be the vacuum tap
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ideas

I am hoping its the choke cable as the bike starts with less choke than any other bike.

I will also try opening the gas cap. I did clean the fuel filters but that was before the dealer got to it.

Thank for your replies they are a huge help.

Mike
 

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Does the bike just die?
Like no blipping of the throttle will save it once its gone below the threshold?
The Rev counter drops like a stone out of nowhere?

It just sounds so electrical to me. One millisecond its idling perfectly, and the next its dead. (in our case)..

If it was the choke, it would get more and more reluctant to idle as it got warm and then the idle would be very unreliable and weak.

If it was pilots (fit a top quality filter, I swear by Briggs and Stratton lawnmower filters because they flow enough, they are high capacity and designed to stop crap!)..it would bang and pop or miss on some cylinders but not the others, but you could coax it into the idling rpm area with a little choke or throttle.

If its electrical its just as if someone turned it off. Aside from the occasional bang and pop on the thumb which is the CPS returning erroneous readings and trying to fire the engine in the wrong piston position, before the temperature in the circuit goes down and the resistance differential comes into tolerance and it start to read the position correctly until it gets hot enough to stop working again...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
c.p.s. and falling off

its cutting out after 2 miles. yes you can catch it sometimes but usualy it just stops, its a real bitch in trafic.

I have more problems now as I binned my Trophy 3 last night and broke my collar bone. Some halfwit turned the give way signs sideways on. At a cross roads. 200 yards further on is a village so I was not expecting a crossroads. Until the village.
I hit the brakes but the front wheel skidded on a stone and I went down.

I broke off the left hand hanger. Does anyone know if a 94 one fits a 92?

thanks

Mike
 

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Sorry to hear about your wreck. How long will you be down?
Did I understand correctly that you can "catch it" by not letting the idle go below 1500RPM? Is it a sudden cut-off?
When it dies, is it a slow loss of power (like running out of gas)?
What kind of fuel mileage have you been getting? has there been a slow decrease over last months or sudden change?
Engine vibrations increased? Rough at idle? Rough at highway speed?
Do you smell raw fuel at tail pipes at idle?
Do you have the tool for syncing your carbs? Get one or borrow one. See how much vacuum each carbs/cylinder is pulling. When was the last time the carbs were sync'ed?
Those are my thoughts. Chew on that while you are recovering. I hope that your recovery time is short!
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
dies

No it dies quickly, In traffic if i shut the throttle off fully it just dies. its a game of keeping momentum.
fuel mileage is good and no smell of petrol.

first time out of dealers it stank of fuel and after a run was overflowing from air box(after they worked on it). back in and £50 more it runs but cuts out.

im loathed to take it back as i dont think they know whats wrong.its very far away.scotland.

im one finger typing sorry for the lack of capitals.

mike
 

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Fuel from the air filter means a stuck float in a carb. Did you check the filter inside the tank? How about the two in the fuel lines at the carbs? Sounds like a fuel problem, clogged low speed jets.
What is your mechanical skill level (after you heal)? Can you pull the carbs?
I am sorry if I am making you repeat yourself.
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Still Stalling, But faster than you.

Hi all Im back and still sore and have limited movement in my left arm.
So the Trophy is not fixed yet. Its just gets ridden over 2500 revs at all times.

Ive been riding a Hayabusa with a handlebar conversion. Its lower than the trophy so I can hold on O.K. I did a 1100 mile trip last week.

Having the Busa and access to a ZZR 1400 I have discoverd that the Trophy is faster. Due to the crap twisty roads here the Trophy will iron out the bumps. While the harsh sports suspension will kick you out of the seat.

The sports bike guys hate us 1200 owners. They dont like getting passed by a Trophy with top box and panniers.


Mike
 

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Hi I am having similar problems with my 900 trophy its just cutting out after 15 mins on the stand its caused me a lot of hassle getting it back on a short trip it stopped about 3 times restarting when it had cooled down tried lots of ideas but I think I will be buying a new pick up sensor does this sound correct or am I barking up the wrong tree Ged in swinton..
 

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Fuel from the air filter means a stuck float in a carb. Did you check the filter inside the tank? How about the two in the fuel lines at the carbs? Sounds like a fuel problem, clogged low speed jets.
What is your mechanical skill level (after you heal)? Can you pull the carbs?
I am sorry if I am making you repeat yourself.
Mark
I've got to disagree, a bit. Fuel from the air filter can be several things. Occasionally a stuck float, but more often hardened O-rings. There's (from memory) 2 O-rings on the float assembly, and one under the carb's top. If the float O-rings fail gas will run until the tank empties onto the floor and into the crankcase.

They harden and square off allowing fuel to leak by. The fuel lines are also notorious for cracking and leaking, but that's another post :)
 
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