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I don't know how many of you out there are having difficultly starting the Sprint 1050 on cold mornings, but let me offer a reminder to open the throttle like a quarter to a third before hitting the button, like the owner's handbook suggests. The bike will fire after 2 or 3 seconds of cranking. You will learn to anticipate the number of revolutions right at the moment of starting so the throttle can be returned to the closed position thereby avoiding an rpm spike when the engine first fires up. I have used this method quite successfully on my 2005 ever since new with no ill effects. In fact, this bike has never required a jump start in the whole 29,600 miles. I ride it almost every day the temp is above freezing during the winter here in south eastern PA. It may sit without running for as long as 3 weeks or so. Still on original battery, and the rest of the bike is stock.
 

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Funny, my dealer told me NOT to do that. Of course what they recommended was pegging the starter for up to 30 seconds at a whack and that worked too, but it made me nervous.
 

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The only precaution I take is to keep mine plugged into the Optimate when it's at home.
Sometimes when I come out of work in the morning it cranks a bit slowly when it's well below freezing, but it always starts first time (so far).

Mines an 05 on the original battery and as far as I know the original sprag clutch.
 

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jpez,

I've been doing that too since I bought my '05 new. Works like a charm.

It's like:

CHU-CHU-CHU-CHU(release w/ a snap)VVVVRROOOOMMMM!!!!:motorbike2:
 

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My '06 was always a bit "reluctant" to fire when cold. I would crank her for about 6- 8 seconds and she'd light up. I started using the method mentioned here, and she would be running within 3 seconds. Seemed like a lot less cranking, anyway.

My '08 is sitting on a battery tender in an unheated garage, probably wondering why I dragged her out of a bright, warm showroom a month ago....
 

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I started mine the other day after it sat since some time in November and it fired right up. Eeerily, almost quicker than when I ride every day. Keeping it on the charger I think is a must.
 

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No. The 07+ ecu changes the following, possibly more:

Downloads time from the (also updated) instrument cluster before startup and after shut down. I believe this is done to compensate for a predicted injector bleed/evaporation rate. New ECU won't even allow starter to engage if used with an 05/06 cluster. New cluster is backward compatible with 05/06.

Has more memory to store timing maps. Timing is varied more as engine warms up. Allows cats to come up to temperature faster.

Has checksum encoded into table data to disable ECU if tables or constants are edited. This has subsequently been reverse engineered by Wayne of Tuneboy fame.

Drives a smaller o2 sensor with higher powered heater coil.

Drives new ignition coils. I don't know if anything besides the weather seals changed. Weather seals (3ea T1291511) can be retrofit.

Requires a different wiring harness. ECU has completely different connector. ECU stays alive for ~30 seconds after shut down to store housekeeping data such as shutoff time. 05/06 did not.


Can 07+ ECU be flashed on 05 or 06?
 

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Didn't the switch in 05-06 to 07+ go from Sagem ecu to a keihin or the other way? If I remember right it was a change of manufacturer which allowed a change in data processing.
 

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Didn't the switch in 05-06 to 07+ go from Sagem ecu to a keihin or the other way? If I remember right it was a change of manufacturer which allowed a change in data processing.
Gary the 955i's have the Sagem unit the 1050's all have the Keihin ECU.:cool:

DaveM:cool:
 

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This is the first I have heard of the "updated" weather seals for the coils. Are these things expensive? More importantly, do these really help with the dreaded water seal problem on cylinder 1? Doing some work on my bike over the winter here, and noticed I had a little rust on the #1 plug (others were fine). Sorry to hijack slightly. :eek:

Kevin
 

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My 2 cents

My 05 was a witch to start when cold here in Omaha. I burnt out the original Sprag clutch on it. I got the Sprag replaced under warranty with the new heavy duty one at Baxter. Then I disabled the SAI and plugged it. Starts like a charm on third crank even when it is 10 to 20 F
 

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$3 to $4 each if I remember correctly.

Yes they help keep the water out.
Your existing seal is recessed in the well. Any water accumulating on top the seal will be drawn into the well as the engine cools.
The new seal includes a cap that covers the well.

You may have to file a bit on the corner of your left most SAI cap for clearance.



This is the first I have heard of the "updated" weather seals for the coils. Are these things expensive? More importantly, do these really help with the dreaded water seal problem on cylinder 1? Doing some work on my bike over the winter here, and noticed I had a little rust on the #1 plug (others were fine). Sorry to hijack slightly. :eek:

Kevin
 

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open the throttle like a quarter to a third before hitting the button, like the owner's handbook suggests.
I had never tried this before until Saturday.

The temperature dropped below freezing earlier in the morning. I had ridden to work everyday last week. The wife and I were geared up except for helmets gloves and jackets.

I went out to start the bike and it did the whirr whirr whirr thing for about ten seconds and started to slow. I tried a couple more times and it got slower. After I had decided it was probably useless I remembered this tip. Cranked the throttle about a quarter open and hit the starter. It fired straight up. Turned what was starting to look like a problem into a beautiful day. Thanks for the tip.
 
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