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Discussion Starter #1
Background (skip if tl;dr):

Frequent reader, rare poster. Last year, I bought a used 2009 Speed Triple (from a member here - I would dig up the thread but can't due to the posting limit) in New Orleans and rode it back up home (Northern VA). Seller (nlzmo400r) was great and handed over the keys to a wonderfully maintained bike. Unfortunately, the colder winters up north have given me a headache or two to deal with.

Below 50 degrees, I can usually forget riding the bike anywhere. I'll put my finger on the button and it will crank for a few seconds, then the ECU voltage threshold will intervene and shut down the starter. Heading in to my second winter with the bike, I'm looking for real solutions. Keeping it on a tender overnight isn't an option, as I live in a condo (and it's not as if it's a luxury every place you go - wouldn't be able to do it at the office, either), and I'm not keen on kludgy remedies like taking the battery inside.

Thus far, I've installed the relay to prevent the headlights from turning on until I flip the highbeam switch, and installed an enormous Odyssey PC680 battery (the problem has persisted through 2 OEM Triumph batteries and the Odyssey, so I'm positive the battery isn't the issue). Still, below 50 and no joy. I verified that the correct map is in the bike (20534, Arrow low mount full system, no SAI). I am also planning on upgrading the starter, solenoid, and battery cables from 8awg to 4awg.

Mapping Question:
I've heard that stock Speed Triples start pretty quickly... two or three rotations and they're running. I've also heard that the Arrow low mounts significantly increase the cranking time. For me, it's worst in cold weather, causing the peak charge of the battery to drain off and give me the no-start problem. I would like to rewrite the map in my bike slightly to richen the mixture during cranking, but I understand that the Triple does not have a warmup map.

It seems like I would adjust the < 1000rpm cells of the L maps. Is this correct? Unfortunately, I can't double check my screen until I get home, but reviewing the TuneECU website, it looks like there may be an L map for each cylinder - is that correct? If so, do I adjust all 3 maps identically?

If I'm mistaken, could somebody let me know what I would adjust? Perhaps give a good starting value to work from? Since it only drops down to cold temperatures at night right now, I only have the luxury of running one test a day when I wake up in the morning.

Thanks for trudging all the way through my post...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, I almost forgot my other questions.

After updating the map in the bike last night (the old map was correct, but I installed a superseded version), I ran the full adaptation procedure. This morning, no improvement. Since it was my first time ever doing the procedure, I did it again over lunch today just to make sure I did it correctly.

While adapting today, the fuel light came on. I read last night that I can use [American] 89 octane in the bike, and thought doing so might help ease my starting difficulties. For the past year, I had been running 91/93 depending on what was available.

First question: do I need to readapt the bike for the fresh tank of 89?

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Since I cannot leave the bike on a tender and there are times when I must go weeks without touching the it, I installed a battery kill switch (which has been great, btw - I broke my wrist in my and couldn't ride for well over 5 weeks. When I came back I had a full battery and it fired right up).

Second question: Flipping the cutoff switch is essentially the same thing as taking the battery out of the bike. This may be a stupid question, but does the loaded ECU map revert to the factory setting when there's no power, or is the loaded map stored permanently? Does the bike lose it's adaptation settings?

And another thank you for tolerating my long-windedness.
 

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1) not necessary - it will re-adapt as necessary just from normal riding

2) Same as your memory stick saves whatever you load on it, without it having to be plugged into your PC. The map is stored in non-volatile memory - you can take the ECM out of the bike completely and stick it on your shelf in the garage for a couple of years and it will go back in just as it came out

See other post/thread for your warm-up/mapping question

Under normal idling speed (i.e. your suggested 1000 rpm) I don't believe will do anything - however you can increase the fuel in the lower left corner of the L Table to make it richer
Under Open-loop cicumstances, of course it will enrich regardless of the engine temp;
however once it goes into Closed-loop, it will re-adjust itself back to meet the A/F requirement.
Yes there is a separate table for each cylinder - do them all.
 
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