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2008 Sprint ST 1050 in Graphite
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So as I have made several posts for different reasons explaining where I am coming from, I am turning my st 1050 into a naked bike of sorts. I used to use an energy drink can as a coolant reservoir. I've grown sick of seeing it...

When I had the energy drink reservoir, it seemed like it just slowly dried out. It would just slowly get lower and lower and so I was thinking it wasn't getting used very much. I use just water so I assumed it was evaporating since it's not a 100% air tight seal where the coolant hoses go into the can. I know it's supposed to fill when it gets hot, and deplete when it gets cool.

So I got rid of the can. Around the temperature of the fan kicking on (btw if this doesn't sound right, it could be because I used tuneecu to make the fan kick on earlier) it was spraying coolant out of this nozzle:
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I actually thought that was where the coolant would get sucked up, not drain from. I thought the other hose drained coolant into the can. I had considered capping it, thinking that if it boiled over, it would come out the other hose.

So I clearly don't understand the coolant system. I have a few questions:

Can I cap that nozzle? Will it build up pressure and eventually come out the other hose? Wouldn't this result in the system basically being slightly low on coolant, maybe heat up quicker, but once at proper common operating temperature, work as normal, and only drain further coolant if it's overheating or close to it?

Is there ANY way I can make the system contained without the reservoir if this is not the case? I understand the downsides of not having a reservoir if you overheat. But I know there are bikes with no reservoir.

If not, can I get long hoses, and run those hoses to a reservoir hidden under the seat, or other location? Or would the hoses be too long to operate properly with the volume of fluid?

I think it would be cool under the seat if I had to, or join the dash, ecu and rectifier hidden under the tank lol but I don't want to do that option, in case things spilled, I don't want it getting on the dash.

Thank you
 

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So I clearly don't understand the coolant system. I have a few questions:

Can I cap that nozzle? Will it build up pressure and eventually come out the other hose? Wouldn't this result in the system basically being slightly low on coolant, maybe heat up quicker, but once at proper common operating temperature, work as normal, and only drain further coolant if it's overheating or close to it?
No. You can't remove the coolant reservoir.
Is there ANY way I can make the system contained without the reservoir if this is not the case? I understand the downsides of not having a reservoir if you overheat. But I know there are bikes with no reservoir.
No.
If not, can I get long hoses, and run those hoses to a reservoir hidden under the seat, or other location? Or would the hoses be too long to operate properly with the volume of fluid?

I think it would be cool under the seat if I had to, or join the dash, ecu and rectifier hidden under the tank lol but I don't want to do that option, in case things spilled, I don't want it getting on the dash.
Yes, provided there is no air in the hose. Never.
The 955 had its reservoir under the rear left fairing. The hose must plunge into to liquid.

It seems you didn't catch how the coolant system works. First the the radiator cap is equipped w/ twp valves: One for letting the coolant out when pressure in excess, and another one to let the coolant back in the cooling circuit. So basically if you cap the overflow exit the expending liquid will at some point make one of the coolant hose explode.

The coolant circuit is closed to prevent the coolant from boiling. So no vapor lock in the circuit.
But as any matter, it expands when the temperature rises. So it needs room. Hence the first valve. The peripheral one.

When it's cooling down, the circuit needs to get back some coolant, otherwise your hoses will become completely flat because of the depression. Hence the second valve (the center one).

You may clean the radiator cap. Both seats of both valves. Sometime, when it get dirty the overflow valve (peripheral) opens up too early.

BTW I guess you used distilled water w/ corrosion inhibitor. The chlorine that is inside the tap water is corrosive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got it, thanks. I will work today on getting long hoses and moving it elsewhere, making sure they stay full. Yes, I use distilled water with water wetter.

Yeah like I said, I realized I had never put thought into how the cooling system works and had no understanding. I had an understanding there was a pressure valve in the cap but I think I got confused by the hoses going to the reservoir and their purposes when I took things apart, and things I read online when trying to find an answer to the question.

I'll also probably introduce antifreeze back into the system since it's cooler out in AZ finally.

Thanks
 

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Coolant systems for vehicles can run without a header tank or expansion tank or overflow tank, but you need to leave an airgap at the top of the radiator when filling and make sure you've got the correct radiator cap. No airgap means puking coolant until an airgap appears at the top of the radiator.

Pressurised tank above the radiator is my preference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
What whaaaaaaat???

Coolant systems for vehicles can run without a header tank or expansion tank or overflow tank, but you need to leave an airgap at the top of the radiator when filling and make sure you've got the correct radiator cap. No airgap means puking coolant until an airgap appears at the top of the radiator.

Pressurised tank above the radiator is my preference.
That's what I was thinking originally. So I wasn't wrong then about this part. So I could let it spit out until it doesn't spit out anymore. That sounds like a decent plan for the winter months to me. But today I spent a lot of time and energy relocating it under the seat. It looks better than originally but I prefer not to see it at all.

But then...

There is even coolant w/ a so high boiling point that even closing the circuit is useless (but preferable when driving).
This part though... I had no idea. I will look into this.

Thank you guys.

Edit: Dang that stuff is a bit expensive lol! But to be honest... I'm highly intrigued. I may go down this route.
 

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"> So I could let it spit out until it doesn't spit out anymore. <" = reduced cooling capacity for the radiator = risks! I wouldn't reduce the capacity of a modern bike's cooling system. Reducing the coolant level also runs the risk of the coolant level being below the cylinder head.
 

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What whaaaaaaat???



That's what I was thinking originally. So I wasn't wrong then about this part. So I could let it spit out until it doesn't spit out anymore. That sounds like a decent plan for the winter months to me. But today I spent a lot of time and energy relocating it under the seat. It looks better than originally but I prefer not to see it at all.

But then...



This part though... I had no idea. I will look into this.

Thank you guys.

Edit: Dang that stuff is a bit expensive lol! But to be honest... I'm highly intrigued. I may go down this route.
Came from the show wheeler dealers (Edward China). Can't remember what episode though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, I was considering doing the low coolant trick mostly just for the cooler months in AZ. During the summer it absolutely requires its full cooling ability when traffic hits. It hit 8/10 on the 'temp' guage this year. I'm going to go down the route of the waterless anti boiling coolant, flush things out, make sure there's no air pockets, see how it does.
 

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The overflow bottle must be above the radiator cap.

That assists the coolant to flow back when the bike recovers after being turned off for a while.

Also if you are using water in the bottle, there's no advantage.

The idea is to have the overflow bottle filled with coolant neat(concentrated)... So that the expelled water vapour bubbles through the coolant and then the change in pressure as the bike cools down sucks coolant to replace the water.

Coolant has a higher boiling and lower freezing point allowing bit to guard against boiling and freezing in heat and in overnight cold.

It does need help though.. the water vapour gets into the bottle easy enough as it's just vapour, but the coolant is liquid and so it needs to be higher than the cap of the radiator.

So..

Lift bottle above radiator cap and fill it with concentrated coolant.. but leave some air at the top of bottle for expansion of coolant if it gets hot and to assist with pressure variation as bike heats then cools after a ride.

Yes it has to be airtight in so much as the tube from radiator cap must end up submerged in coolant ..

There are actually a few coolant bottles available for different triumph models.. why not grab one off eBay..say from a street triple.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sealed cooling systems with expansion tanks became the norm for very good reasons........................
I definitely hear you. It certainly isn't for expense reasons... those plastic reservoir bottles aren't saving any money to get rid of :p

The majority of people seem to notice no temp differences, or only slightly higher, based on amazon reviews. They also have a version specifically for power sports. No idea the difference. People who do report much higher temps, makes you wonder if the reason it is so drastic is they don't know how to burp the system for air bubbles.. Im expecting slightly higher which I can live with... Anyway... It shows up today. Working next two days. I'll give it a whirl on Wednesday and fill it up, report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So far I am impressed. Thankfully I found out about how there are two drain bolts, one in the radiator, one in the cyl head. Filled it up. Tilted the bike side to side, massaged the lines, burped it. Got it nice and bubble free.

Could be that there was air in the system previously. Pretty likely, I am sure. But its running a little bit cooler than it was, before. It still expanded a little bit once it heat up... could be theres a pocket of water somewhere I missed somehow... I read it does expand a wee bit, though. Its a very small amount. I am nervous to put a screw in the radiator to overflow nipple... just in case... but its not spewing anything.

Before though if I was stuck in traffic, it would rise until the fan kicked on (keep in mind I programmed mine to turn on a little early), and then settle at that temp. It is settling before the fan kicks on, with it being like 75f outside. So for nakeds and cafe racer converts... who need to delete that ugly ass reservoir... I highly recommend it. I am mildly worried because I am in the Phoenix area but if your area doesnt get much above 100 f in the summer I can't see it be a problem, providing you do it right.

Thanks for the tips, happy thanksgiving usa
 

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................It still expanded a little bit once it heat up... could be theres a pocket of water somewhere I missed somehow... I read it does expand a wee bit, though. Its a very small amount. I am nervous to put a screw in the radiator to overflow nipple... just in case... but its not spewing anything.

It expands, typically by about 6%, probably closer to 7% because of the ethylene glycol contents effect on waters density. And then of course there's the requirement for sufficient additional % of coolant to cover drawdown, but I sense, as you said yourself, you don't understand the coolant system.

As I said a couple of posts back, there are good reasons why sealed cooling systems with expansion tanks became the norm......................., your father and grandfather knew .;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I already understood the 7% figure. You sense I am struggling? Are you as condescending in person as you are over keyboard? Oh let me check AS YOU SAID a couple of posts back... I am so sorry mister, let me re-read your gospel! Man the amount of people full of themselves on this board is fucking bewildering. Its a motorcycle forum. Do you feel important? Is my excitement and appreciation for figuring things out as I go somehow threatening to you? What did I do to deserve your smug BS? Get the **** out of here.

Seriously every other thread I make I get smug ******** who contribute nothing but try to act better than me, im sick of it. I bought my father his first wrench in my 30s. I havent had a grandfather in my life since I was like 9. I got into mechanics like a few years ago. I understand it would expand. FFS. And what if I didn't, though? Did I do some moral evil? Why do you need to be a smartass? I am not going for what is 100% the most functional, I am building a custom bike and I have no room for a coolant reservoir. I am so fucking sick of people like you sucking out the room for people to be creative and making sure you assert how SMART and FUCKING SMUG you are and I don't care who you are to yourself or whomever on this forum or your stupid postcount, youre an asshole to me and always will be.. git.

Leave me alone.
 
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