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Thread bump. so i have been experiencing the same issue on my Daytona. i have been trawling the net to see if there was any fix and stumbled upon this. I removed the instrumnet cluster and tried cleaning the board but that didnt work, so i ended up removing the switch as a sample. I purchased the swithes and since in our lovely country we cant get individual tactile switches i ended up with 20 of them, but it was about 30 rands so not a very big deal. i will be attemptimg to removing and replace the switches today. Also there was heavy corrosion around the bulb for fuel indicator so i will also be attempting to replace this as well. Any tips that i can get before i do this? thanks guys
 

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Mine was also with some corrosion around bulb area but I simple cleaned it with isopropilic alcohol as it was working well
 

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Anyone here have a video on how to do this???
I don't. But it is not do difficult to do it.
1st remove the wind shield, then the plate that holds the windshield and then the instrument cluster releasing the cable plug.
After that, just carefully unscrew the little bolts behind the cluster and detach the cover.
To remove the old switches I just ask for my wife to hold the board while with one hand I heated the switches leg and with another hand I pulled the switch out of the board with sir hanging movements.
After removing the switches, clean the board and install the new ones.
 

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I don't. But it is not do difficult to do it.
1st remove the wind shield, then the plate that holds the windshield and then the instrument cluster releasing the cable plug.
After that, just carefully unscrew the little bolts behind the cluster and detach the cover.
To remove the old switches I just ask for my wife to hold the board while with one hand I heated the switches leg and with another hand I pulled the switch out of the board with sir hanging movements.
After removing the switches, clean the board and install the new ones.
thanks mate, i got a PCB helping hand that i can use.
My first attempt was me trying to get the switch off as a sample.
Second attempt reulted in me heating and reheating the solder around the connectors.
I got some desoldering wick and im hoping that it will help remove the solder. just dont want to burn the boarn or any of the tracks on the PCB.
Will also need to solder on a new fuel light as the one i have looks completly damaged with water and corrosion.

Does it matter which way the legs go into the board for the fuel light?
 

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... Will also need to solder on a new fuel light as the one i have looks completly damaged with water and corrosion.

Does it matter which way the legs go into the board for the fuel light?
Is the LED still functioning?
If it is I would just leave it alone and clean up around it

I'm not immediately familiar with visualizing that - would need to see pics of both sides.
But being an LED almost certainly is going to be polarity sensitive.
You asked in PM about testing without plugging it in - good news on an LED is you can't damage it if you install it backwards - it just won't work.
So if you can't compare the correct polarity between the original and new and guess wrong, you just need to reverse it.
 

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the LED functioned intermittently, then the light just became very very dim almost couldnt see it, unless it was parked in a dark place and even that too the light was ever so faint.
Will see how i go with the removal and installation of the buttons some time this week, will google and see if i can maybe figure out the polarity or try to see which way the existing ones are connected and try that.
 

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the LED functioned intermittently, then the light just became very very dim almost couldnt see it, unless it was parked in a dark place and even that too the light was ever so faint.
Will see how i go with the removal and installation of the buttons some time this week, will google and see if i can maybe figure out the polarity or try to see which way the existing ones are connected and try that.
Perhaps you could try to find out what pin give the power to the gas bulb from the socket behind the cluster and feed it with a 12v portable power source. (The cluster wiring diagram maybe can help - don't know if it's available).
When you discover what pin feeds the gas bulb you can measure the bulb's contacts to see what is + and -. Although the wiring diagram may also has this answer.
 

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Update on thread

SO just a quick update on my issue regarding the trip buttons. After trying and failing to replace the buttons, i took the speedometer to a shop called Sun SPeedo, they are based in Boksburg, Gauteng, SOuth Africa.
A chap by the name of Allen was very helpful, he replaced the buttons and did some solder work to the light bulb. am very please with his work and happy to report that everything is working as it should like it came out from the factory.

Thanks
 

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My trips dont reset and my clock will not set either , but i can toggle between trip and mileage no prob ,so i have issues also , i'm living with it
 

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My skills are poor and my cheap soldering iron is not hot enough so I came up with an alternative solution.
I determined that the problem came about because the switches' long stems become loose over time so that they fall to the side and the rubber membrane no longer makes contact with them. I tested they still work well by plugging the naked PCB into its harness and trying each one; the problem that they just don't line up.
So I made a brace to make them stand up straight - from a section of popsicle stick.
I drilled 3 small holes in a popsicle stick, 2cm apart. Each hole just wide enough to slide down over the stems. I then trimmed the stick at either end and cut a notch wide enough to accommodate the screw post that sits between buttons 1 and 2.
Now my dash is reassembled, and buttons working very well.
I expect the screw post to hold the brace in place. If it fails I'll buy a better soldering iron.
 
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