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Just executed a repair for one of our members.
This particular unit had the right switch functioning, but the other two were not.
All three would be replaced regardless.

I used a professional grade temperature controlled Weller Soldering station with a fine pencil tip.
For the de-soldering process just used braid solder-wick with copious amount of flux.
For working on the bottom side of the board (tach inverted) I sat it on, with the tach dial inside, a roll of masking tape which preventing having it sitting on the needle.

Here are some images of the process:

This first series of images is view of how it looked 'before':









You can see quite a few of the solder joints are badly oxidized;
when compared with solder pads on other areas of the board, these were visually very dull gray, vs shiny silver from those that were 'higher' in vertical plane when mounted.
i.e. it clearly appeared to be sitting in wet environment at that zone.

Next, the solder pads with the switches removed;
you can see these are quite damaged (this was NOT done by the removal process!!!);
it is important that the holes are completely opened up and as much of old solder removed as possible;
so even when the switches themselves are gone, hit it again with flux soaked braid and the iron to get it as clean as possible.
Clean all the dirty flux off at this point with solvent and a brush (old stiff tooth brush works well)





After physically inserting the new switches, I put fresh flux on each of the pads/terminals - this is not a step I would normally do, but given the poor condition of the pads, wanted as much 'help' as possible to ensure a bond.



And then soldered and cleaned up:
Not 'perfect' but wasn't expecting that given condition of the pads.



The result was a success - all buttons again functioning to spec.
I did get thrown for a minute when testing - checked the scroll function and that switch now working perfectly (one of those that was not, previously);
Stopped it on clock (or so I thought) & tried pressing both scroll & set buttons to program the time;
it would not enter the time setting mode;
I even took it off & re-flowed the joints on the middle switch;
tried again same thing;
then I switched off key and switched on again - this time the 'real' clock appeared and the 'set' function worked.
I realized then I had the 'timer' field up originally, not the clock, which is why it would 'set' - dooohhhhhh!!!!! :banghead

Mission accomplished.
 

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Thanks to this thread I was able to order the correct switches and replace them- putting my rusty soldering skills to work again. My pads were in much worse shape than the ones pictured here, so I had my doubts. Put it back together and everything is working perfectly. I can now set my clock, it was driving me crazy displaying the wrong time. Also, I can reset my trip meter to help estimate the next fuel stop. Awesome thread and glad it's posted where it's easily retrievable! Thanks!
 

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I did another repair of a cluster last week:

You can clearly see where there was a 'puddle' of water sitting in the bottom of pod and the resultant residue:



And this was the result of that - obviously the one on the right is lowest and the one sitting in the water:



And the back-side - again that lowest one is the most affected



The repair with new switches installed
(the black areas are just where the solder mask lifted - another consequence of the water, but does not affect anything)



User reported all working perfectly again.
 

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, I can reset my trip meter to help estimate the next fuel stop. Thanks!
If you do not want to estimate the next fuel stop. There is a little device called a fuelbot. There is a thread about it on this site. Its the best upgrade i have done to my bike...
 

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The instrument panel in the photos that Decosse is describing is mine that he repaired. As you can see from the photos, the right switch did not work. I contacted Decosse and we made arrangements to have it repaired. I shipped it on a Monday and had it back that Thursday. The repair was a success plus the switches are better than new. The switches have a more positive feel and with an audible click. Decosse, thanks for your help, good job.
 

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I don't know 100% but it's only thing it can be I would have to believe - there are three per assembly and the grommets on the bottom are already accounted for; besides their name is button :D
yah, its pretty cheap too so looks like i will have to take a shot and order some. Worst case scenario, gotta roll up the sleeves and jump on inventor to 3d print some buttons lol
 

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Guess I got to find the switches at 0,60€ each from electronic shop. Bought it before open the dash.
Next month will dig into the job
 

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^ It's hard to tell from the perspective of your picture, but the plunger pins look short?
Compare your actual part to my pictures above
Also I have some switches on hand - just measured - the operating pin is 10mm above the surface of the switch
Hmmm than I think I bought the wrong switches, mine has about 5mm. I'll try to change tomorrow.
Is there any correct position to fix them on the board? They appear to be symmetrical.
Thanks!
 

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I have a very little suspect that my problem are the switches lol
Will remove them, try to clean the board with isopropilic alcohol and install the new switches.
Hope this will work as I don't have a good skill with soldering.
 

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Switches removed.
Board cleaned. While cleaning the board its paint was peeling itself, I don't know if the missing paint will matter and if needs to fix it.
Before closing the gauge I will put some silicone paste there
 
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