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I had found an old thread once on a repair for the 3 little buttons when they stop working. I have no succes finding it again. Is there a reliable fix for these buttons ? If not could you point me in the direction of a supplier of replacement switches or buttons . On a side note has anyone wired in toggles to replace the buttons? Is my understanding correct that a 2 position toggle would be enough to replace the current set up . Any insight would be very helpful. Thanks to everyone in this great community for your help. Norm .
 

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Tyco Electronics part # FSM14JH is one button. Available through pretty much any electronics part store.

The solderboard on the gauges is a bit cramped, but soldering new buttons is still manageable with a small soldering iron.
 

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Some people used Contact Spray/Tuner Spray on the buttons to make them work again.

Instead of replacing the push-buttons with toggles, I got a Ducati Monster 1100 handlebar switch for cheap, modified the wiring harness to fit the Speedy, and wired the switch into the instrument cluster. Now I have the Ducati MODE UP/DOWN button for 'SELECT' and 'ODO'.



JoE.
 

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As I said, ODO and SELECT (left and right buttons). So no need to press 2 buttons at once. For resetting I still have the middle button on the cluster.

JoE.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I abandoned this thread, after asking for the advise here I could not find a reliable dealer for the switches . I used a soldering iron to melt the cover on the switches , disassemble them and then plastic weld the covers back on. They worked for about half the season. The vibes broke the plastic welds and they stopped working again.

I found a dealer for the switches in Canada , and retro fitted my cluster .
I have 3 extra buttons ( I ordered 6 just incase I screwed one up somehow. )
I will send them free to whom ever needs them . Just send me a PM.
Have a great weekend !
 

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Tyco Electronics part # FSM14JH is one button. Available through pretty much any electronics part store.....
I abandoned this thread, after asking for the advise here I could not find a reliable dealer for the switches ....
Re-opening this after recent inquiry from new member

http://www.te.com/catalog/products/en?q=FSM14JH



See that FSM14HJ has been superseded by http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/2-1977120-7?RQPN=2-1977120-7 but is still available

You can find the FSM14JH by following the 'check price & availability' links to suppliers like
DigiKey

or - http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/2-1825910-7?RQPN=FSM14JH

Again, follow links for price & availability
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am bumping this thread for a couple reasons .
One to add the info that the buttons are crimped on the back side . Once the old solder is removed , you must bend the feet straight before removing the buttons.

Don't force them out

Two , this is vital info that has not been front paged for a while :)
 

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Thought that I'd add to this since it's been bumped a couple times. I got my replacements from Digi-Key for .10 each. The Digi-Key part number is 450-1642-ND and they will ship immediately.

You can also use their part number search for the FSM14JH.

www.digikey.com
 

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After 3 years of riding in S. Florida rain, my instrument cluster switches are non-functional (happened 2 days ago) . I ordered new switches from digikey.com. USPS tracking says they should arrive in 3 days. Will post the replacement process once I get it done.

Anyone has any mods to share that would prevent future water ingress in to the instrument cluster ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I layered a good bead of heavy duty dielectric grease over the circuit board and switches as well as in the bead of the 2 halves of the cluster . I contemplated sealing it with RTV , but the possibility of moisture building naturally and not being able to escape bothered me . I am good so far .
 

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The 'Trip' switch on my 06 never really seemed to work all that well, but the dealer said, naw, it's the way they all are.
Fast forward to this spring, when I almost didn't pass inspection because it wouldn't flip over from Trip 1 to read total mileage. After a million clicks, it finally switched over. That was actually the last time it worked at all. I finally got around to pulling it apart yesterday...heads, up, I did shotgun, so I really don't know what worked...anyways, I saw no corrosion, but, at least with my contacts lenses in ( I see better up close with glasses ), the solder joints looked like they might be dry. Lead-free solder joints seem to look 'wrong' to me pretty often, so maybe I just don't know what they should look like. Anyways, I re-flowed all 4 legs on all the switches. After they cooled, I dribbled a little De-Oxit D5 into the switches and furiously clicked away. Reassembled the dash, and what do ya know? Works better than it did fresh off the showroom floor. I can actually operate the switches with my gloves on now.

De-Oxit, solder, who is the hero here? Don't know, and that's why you don't shotgun, kids.
 

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I had the same problem with my 3 switches, ordered a couples of them from digikey, swapped them, and only 1 worked, the one on the right. I tought a solder could've been wrong or something so I took it to my uncle to do it right, and he cleaned the circuit board and resoldered 3 new switches from both sides of the board and even checked the pass-troughs on the board and cleaned them and checked them for continuity and everything was good so I tried it again and same thing, only the right switch works... He said next time we can go at it again and check it more toroughly and try to find what the problem might be. Just resoldering new switches doesnt always work.
 

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When I was getting my bike back on the road I bought a second hand cluster on Ebay UK for about £50(ish) because the first 2 x buttons (first two on the left) didn't work.

I didn't really care about the trip computer functions so I bought it but when I got it back to Australia I realised that without the buttons working I couldn't change it from mph to kph.

Anyway, pulled it apart and checked condinuity on the switch and they were all fine. I re soldered them anyway but still no luck.

Then came the painfull task of checking each track for conductivity. Every track looked fine and I had to take the screen of the board but I eventually found the damaged track in the board and bridged it with some fine wire, reassembled and it was all good.

The tracks are really fine so it was a bit annoying + fiddley to solder the bridge to each end.

You had to magnify the track to see the damage and it wasn't too far from the buttons but had to remove the screen to get a good point to solder the wire.
 

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Looks like I'm now having this same issue: noticed growing condensation inside, eventually the middle and left button stopped functioning. Contact cleaner hasn't corrected it.

I understand in theory what needs to be done: new switches ordered, soldered on, connections checked... but it's way out of my realm of expertise. Anyone know of resources in the Bay Area where I could take this to get done? @DEcosse?
 
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