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Discussion Starter #41
Yep, I've run the TOD. It's never run right since...

RE: BOS20101, full disclosure, I guess I didn't know what BOS slip ons were. This is why I'm not exactly qualified to be doing this. haha

So, I think I may have found something SO SIMPLE it's silly. I'm running a new K+N air filter (properly oiled) and am just now realizing that the original airbox seal/gasket is still in there. For shiz n giggs, I checked it. It's pretty crushed. And there's a bit of oil mist accumulating in the lower left corner near the drain. It has seeped through the airbox seal. Telling me the seal is toast. Ordered a new one. Let's see if this solves the high idle and fixes throttle responsiveness...
 

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I'm super curious about this, because idk if I ever even noticed a gasket on my air filter. I will have to look for sure, but it looks like a newer filter and I'm curious if the previous owner forgot to put the seal back on. I'll have to check. It would be nice to be that simple of a fix after all of this fiddling.
Funny you brought this up because I was literally just reading another thread about that same gasket on the air filter! I'll check mine and let ya know. Where'd you order that new gasket from?


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Alrighty, so did some work this weekend and I feel like I'm just now eliminating everything and don't know what's left!

I bought a new fuel rail and fuel injectors off eBay just to eliminate that as a possibility. Replaced the TB boots. Sprayed some cleaner through the vacuum lines. I took the flash guard off of the air filter. I also cleaned the iscv and lubed it up. Put the TBs back on and connected to tune ecu. With the tank and air box connected I reloaded the bos20101 tune. I previously was trying a different tune that wasn't as good as the bos. I adjusted the tps to exactly .6v and .75v respectively. Then fired it up to balance the TBs. I got the bike all warmed and then got them all balanced at 740 in tune ecu. That was near 2-2.25 turns on all the TBs.
After that I put it all back together fired it up and it idled okay, gave it a rev and it got stuck at 2k. Shut it down checked the iscv again and it was at .51v!? Idk how that happens! I reloaded the bos20101 tune and then I adjusted the iscv back to .6v. Fired up the bike and it was the smoothest idle I have seen so far. I didn't believe it so I shut it off and then started it again. Same smooth steady idle. Blipped the throttle and came right back down. The bike was still warm though so I'll have to wait to see what happens when the bikes cold and when I take it for a ride. Planning on it tomorrow, so I'll report back then. If this all fails then I should probably check the valves, and beyond that I'm clueless at what else it could possibly be!? Hopefully I find myself happy with the results tomorrow.


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Discussion Starter #46
At a standstill again. Airbox seal arrived and is installed. Def way more meat on it than the original. Good seal. Now if I could only fire up the bike!

Put SAI back together. Plugged back in the O2 sensor. Uploaded the 20213 map I was running last season with some success.

Went to check/adjust the TPS and of course it was WAY off from last adjustment. Everything was plugged in with tank floating above. In general, what I've noticed is that to get it right, it's maxed out clockwise. But, now it won't even let me achieve .6v. At full clockwise position, it goes as low as .75v (floating vigorously up to .83 and back down, up, down, etc). The range from full L to R is approx 1.30v down to the .75v.

Nothing else has changed. Any idea why the TPS voltage is so high? Or why the sensor is maxed out? Would adjusting the ISCV stepper nut correct this?

Pretty sure I'm just going around in circles here...
 

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At a standstill again. Airbox seal arrived and is installed. Def way more meat on it than the original. Good seal. Now if I could only fire up the bike!



Put SAI back together. Plugged back in the O2 sensor. Uploaded the 20213 map I was running last season with some success.



Went to check/adjust the TPS and of course it was WAY off from last adjustment. Everything was plugged in with tank floating above. In general, what I've noticed is that to get it right, it's maxed out clockwise. But, now it won't even let me achieve .6v. At full clockwise position, it goes as low as .75v (floating vigorously up to .83 and back down, up, down, etc). The range from full L to R is approx 1.30v down to the .75v.



Nothing else has changed. Any idea why the TPS voltage is so high? Or why the sensor is maxed out? Would adjusting the ISCV stepper nut correct this?



Pretty sure I'm just going around in circles here...


When you hit the adjust iscv on tune ecu you should see the stepper motor arm retract and the throttle should be on the manual stopper. That stopper is not to be adjusted ever. It's set from the factory. If you stepper motor During that process is still holding your throttle slightly open the adjust it so you get the appropriate gap in between the arm and the roller (I think it's .5mm but can't remember exactly). That's the only reason I could think of to explain your problem. You adjust with the nut on the end of the stepper motor arm.


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Discussion Starter #48
Turning the stepper adjustor nut doesn't seem to make much difference on the TPS voltage. It physically opens and closes that .5mm gap as it should. But, would require multiple full turns to change the TPS voltage enough to put it in range. Make sense?

How could the TPS go from perfectly dialed .60v to random readings to this super high reading?
 

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Turning the stepper adjustor nut doesn't seem to make much difference on the TPS voltage. It physically opens and closes that .5mm gap as it should. But, would require multiple full turns to change the TPS voltage enough to put it in range. Make sense?



How could the TPS go from perfectly dialed .60v to random readings to this super high reading?

With that .5mm gap it should be able to be adjusted to to .6v. Have you ruled out a bad tps? That could be it, or possibly exposed wires? I haven't checked that but possibly an exposed wire touching another wire could definitely mess with the voltage. Maybe time to unwrap the wiring harness and take a look?

I live in corpus and we had to evacuate for this hurricane that came through, so I was up in Austin (I threw my bikes in my truck and drove up there, wasn't going to risk it in my ****ty apartment garage). I just got back, minimal damage to corpus as a whole so I haven't fired the bike up in a few days. I'll try and go on a ride tomorrow and see but before all this happens my bike had been running the best it had been since I bought it.


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Discussion Starter #51
Glad you're OK. Horrible situation down there.

Yessir, TPS is brand new as of early July (see previous) ;). Installed and dialed it in to .6v no problem back then. Maybe it's no good. Should remove it and test. Somehow it seems to change on it's own. I wouldn't be surprised if I check it tomorrow and it's different than last time.

Good call. I will inspect all the wiring for possible issues.
 

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Yeah I have a similar issue and I can't tell why the tps keeps changing voltage. I've never not been able to adjust it and it always is within mm of the factory mark (the green mark on the tps that lines up on the TBs).


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So an update. Just made it to NC. I rode speedy once and she fired up great and idled great and rode great. Only weird thing was I made quite a bit of stops on the way where I turned the bike off, and sometimes when I started it again it would be slow to return to idle. Other times it'd go right back down hownits supposed to.cant find a correlation yet to why it does it certain times. I'll keep looking but for now I'm going to just enjoy it!


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Discussion Starter #55
Been a while! UPDATE- the bike runs seemingly perfect now! After most of last season spent throwing money at it and and scratching my head, I kind of put the bike to the back burner.

Around the holidays, I finally broke down and brought it to the local dealer. They confirmed the problem was essentially the last part on the bike that I had not replaced and should have been the 1st thing I replaced... the O2 sensor. They gave the bike a full shakedown and a clean bill of health. Peace of mind that, for the most part, I did an OK job putting the bike back together.

It's running nice on the 20213 map. Prob going to install the TOD soon. I'll hopefully get it on a dyno soon and really dialed in.

Thanks again for all of your suggestions and diagnoses. I'm sure at least a couple folks said to just replace the O2 sensor. Total newb mistake. Oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Turns out the O2 sensor wasn't the complete fix for my bike... It ran OK for about a week or so. Then crappy again.

TPS voltage was always/has always been all over the map. Check for faulty/loose/damaged wiring and/or connectors. Wiggle all the wires attached to the harness. Check your ground on battery and engine. I found some funky stuff. Simply moving the wires around changed the TPS voltage... Pulled the ground off the engine and remounted it and that seemed to make it better. BUT, the charging system is definitely failing/failed. So, I'm going to replace the R/R and stator. Hoping that solves my issues... Not sure what else there is to replace.

Hope this helps.
 

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Crap. I just ordered a new TPS and O2 sensors. Well, let's see if changing them helps. I will try the wire wiggle also. At least I noticed that the voltage changes when I plug the fuel pump connector in.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Perfecto, besides what I mentioned in my PM response, I'd check and properly clean every single wiring connector. Inspect your whole harness for kinks, breaks, etc. Or just replace the harness (and possibly the ECU) and see if that makes a difference.
 
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