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So in this mild resto of a 2005 T-100, I'm now pretty much down to the carbs. They're pretty sad as you can see - the bike sat non-op four years or so before I got it. I've taken the carbs down and everything seems restorable, except the throttle body is stuck - really stuck. So into a bucket of gasoline for past two days and managed to get them to move - a bit. Still hard to move them at all. Everything I've read points to renewal as that area is pretty sealed with further tear-down challenging. (Grinding butterfly screws, etc...)

It seems a few choices, probably made a little more difficult as the "modification market" for this era bike has passed limiting stuff available.

OEM - there's two flavors - one for around $610 and the other $1710! Cost difference based on serial number I'm told - maybe something to do with all the EPA crap needed for later 100's? Of course my Bonnie needs the pricey one I'm told.

Salvage take-offs - a couple out there for around $300 or so but look a bit grungy - to be expected I guess. I could get one and combing with parts I have but leery of cascading problems and never getting it right. On the other hand if i keep looking I might get lucky? I understand carbs from a number of models from about 01 to 05 might work?

Aftermarket - I guess for around $850 there's CRII's. Nothing special and ouch. But hold promise of somewhat plug and play?

Mikuni's or the hotter FCR's - seems like overkill for what I have (airbox removal, pods, TOR's). Real expensive, won't ship to California, and I'm no tuner at that level.

Keep on with the gas bucket brigade and see if they ever loosen-up. Seems doubtful, though.

Would really appreciate any thoughts you guys have on this - as you can see from photos those CVK's were pretty gummed up...


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Any Bonneville 790 or 865 or America 790 second hand carbs will fit the bill. Thruxton and 865 America or Speedmaster carbs have slightly different starter jet and main air jet size, but these jets are not removable and can't be changed. You could most probably get over the differences with pilot jet screw adjustment and needle shims. The only other differences between them all are main jet and pilot jet sizes, which can be changed.
 

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Wow - those are some ugly carb insides. I would switch to a carb cleaner product to soak them instead of gasoline.
Try some penetrating oil soak on the seized up areas also. Stuff works pretty amazing at breaking down crud.
Given enough time and effort that should be salvageable.
 

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The Cr 11's that you kinda bashed are great, bought mine used a bunch of years ago and still no problems. Before you ask I already sold my stockers. sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Any Bonneville 790 or 865 or America 790 second hand carbs will fit the bill. Thruxton and 865 America or Speedmaster carbs have slightly different starter jet and main air jet size, but these jets are not removable and can't be changed. You could most probably get over the differences with pilot jet screw adjustment and needle shims. The only other differences between them all are main jet and pilot jet sizes, which can be changed.
Thank you! - This opens up the options though don't see many of any flavor out there nowadays.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow - those are some ugly carb insides. I would switch to a carb cleaner product to soak them instead of gasoline.
Try some penetrating oil soak on the seized up areas also. Stuff works pretty amazing at breaking down crud.
Given enough time and effort that should be salvageable.
Thanks for the advice - out of the gas and soaking in it now! Then will move to the penetrating oil and see what happens but those things are closed tighter than a bull's behind in fly-time...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The Cr 11's that you kinda bashed are great, bought mine used a bunch of years ago and still no problems. Before you ask I already sold my stockers. sorry.
Thanks for the feedback on the CR's - didn't mean to slag them - just more the thought of basically a grand for 'em. They seem to get good reviews for mildly modded Bonnies. The dilemma I guess now is whether to try for take-offs saving $400 or so - but risking hassles, or just spring for these new. My frozen stocker prolly isn't worth much of anything I guess. Gah!
 

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Hi mate,

you could consider a ultrasonic cleaner (mine cost about £80 off of eBay) and I’ve used it on an old carb that has stood for a few years and was very gummed up... very good results ...




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Back in the day we used a carb cleaner called Hydra Seal, it was manufactured by Gunk. You would disassemble the carb put it in a basket and soak it overnight. Came out like new. This stuff would burn the skin off of your hands. Unfortunately the EPA has stepped in and what is sold now is no where near the strength of what you could get in the 70's. I'm told that for it to work you need to leave it soaking for a week, and keep your fingers crossed and hope that it works.
Mike
 

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It's been my experience that carb cleaners/soaks work good on surface crud, varnish and ethanol residue. Not so much on rust and corrosion. Before you give up, rite before you give up and toss the carbs in the trash try soaking the shafts with your favorite penetrating oil from inside and outside. With a thin blunt punch, not a hammer, tap against the throttle plate to open while firmly twisting the throttle shaft. If, lets say when it moves, stop, apply penetrent, twist and tap in the other direction to close. Repeat until it moves freely. Be careful not to bend the throttle plates.
 

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You could also try some paint thinners. Works quite well on crud.

Jon
 
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