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Discussion Starter #1
Well it happened. After a few years and few thousand miles of amazing utility the Givi topcase #V46NT on the SW-Motech alu rack #GPT.11.259.15000.B with adapter plate #GPT.00.152.405 went over one too many Manhattan pothole and cracked the speedy's rear subframe just aft of the under seat tool space. Happened when I was riding with an empty topcase over Brooklyn bridge. Any tips for welding/strengthening the subframe or cautionary tales welcome.
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05-07 subframe is what you need. Decosse is right in that the 08-10 is different, and you would need all new bodywork, tail lights, coolant overflow reservoir and seat and the tank mount is different. 08-10 tank is metal.

The subframe mount is the same, from 02-10 and they are all interchangeable. I am currently fitting an 05 subframe and bodywork to my 04. The subframe bolted right up and the 05 rear body work matches up to the 04 tank, but the rest of the project is anything but simple. Work is suspended at the moment due to some other stuff I'm doing, but I have a thread going about the project which I'll update when work resumes. But I digress......if you want to replace the subframe, go for an 05-07 (I maybe wrong but I think I remeber Triumph upgraded the rear subframe bracing due to a few reports of similar failures on the 05-06 model) ....and dont use a loaded topbox on that rack. SW Motech changed the rack for the 08-10 models, and put some extra rails which mount to the rear of the rear footpeg mounts. they still advise a load limit of 5kg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Found a local welder and I'm going to reuse my sub-frame to try and make a beefier sub-frame leveraging the round section tubing as @DEcosse suggests above. Anybody have a process for removing sub-frame? Other than an exploded view of "seat rails" in 16.3 can't spot a remove/replace procedure in the factory manual. Some of the interior bolts have likely 14 years (!!) of corrosion on them and I'd like to see what needs to come off in what order to avoid hammering at things with a hidden bolt, or vice versa (see corrosion), and line up the right tools and grease in advance. Working on speedy in an NYC basement has its limits. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
First there was Winter and then... other things happened. Finally, NYC is crawling out of its hole. Removing the rear sub-frame next weekend, then off to welding shop. The local welder disappeared and the new plan is access to a shop with MIG and TIG welders and help from a generous fellow rider with metal work experience, to do it myself. Tips on removing sub-frame and welding welcome. At this point my plan is to use the MIG welder since the sub-frame cross section is quite thick.
 
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