Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,I'm changing the fork oil seals/fork oil/dust seals on my bike at the weekend.
Can anybody reliably tell me the capacity of the fork oil required for each leg please ?
My Haynes manual (3755) only has the tech info for models up to 2000 ? Saying use Showa SS8 or equivalent and 459cc each leg.I don't want to get this wrong due to possible incorrect info.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
@Stagini ...let us know how you get on with replacing fork seals and such as I've had a devil of a time trying to do mine..I can't get the guide Bush to seat fully into its bed and have scrapped the fork seal kit I bought and just ordered OEM parts and a triumph tool fork driver or drift as they call it from world of triumph at over double the price of the cost I had paid already...
Should still be cheaper than taking the forks into a shop to be done though...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Evening Duckadiledundee,
I'm glad you messaged mate,in real world terms this is one of those jobs that should be straightforward but is anything but ! I'm halfway through the first fork and have stalled in the act of drifting the fork seal itself back in,my guide bush was tight but I persuaded it in ,you can belt it quite hard as the washer above protects it ? The seal itself however has sunk a little way down into the leg but if I hit the "drift" I'm currently using any harder I reckon I will damage the seal first before it moves ! (is this what you did ? )
I'm in exactly the same position as you at the moment and my thoughts ran to maybe using something like a length of 52 mm scrap exhaust pipe begged/borrowed from a garage to tap the seal in ?
There is a plan B,send me a personal message through here and why not see if we can work out a way wherein you borrow my newly acquired Morgan Carbtune and I borrow your fork drift ? Seems logical to two blokes with in essence the same bike ? Depending how far away from each other we are,postage should be reasonable,it's just a matter of trust after that.
These were my original fork/dust seals on the left leg of my bike ! God knows how they got like that ?
714658
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,169 Posts
To help keep your seals from looking like that in the future the fork gaiters from a current Bonneville fit the Sprint. Don't get knock offs, they fall apart within a year. Ask me how I know that one...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
20191129_163849.jpg
20191129_163849.jpg 20191129_164318.jpg 20191130_143537.jpg


As you can see in the first pic @Stagini the bush just was not going down...
The original fork seal looks like it was battered when it was put in by the previous owner ...
The fork driver /drift I bought off Am#zon fell apart within the first few attempts to drive the bush home...

In future I shall be buying the proper official parts and tools to do the job when possible...

As you say it should be a straight forward relatively simple job and no way should it be this problematic...
Hopefully the parts and drift will be here for my day off on Thursday and I will have another go at it and let you know...

Between the two of us I reckon we should be able to sort this out....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
View attachment 714696 View attachment 714696 View attachment 714697 View attachment 714698


As you can see in the first pic @Stagini the bush just was not going down...
The original fork seal looks like it was battered when it was put in by the previous owner ...
The fork driver /drift I bought off Am#zon fell apart within the first few attempts to drive the bush home...

In future I shall be buying the proper official parts and tools to do the job when possible...

As you say it should be a straight forward relatively simple job and no way should it be this problematic...
Hopefully the parts and drift will be here for my day off on Thursday and I will have another go at it and let you know...

Between the two of us I reckon we should be able to sort this out....
Oooh sorry that photo is of my new fork seal after I gave it a few taps hoping it would drive the Bush into place..my old original seals look like yours and that's with dust cap protectors on...also the fork had very little oil in it and I'm talking less than a 100ml which explains a lot ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
@Duckadiledundee

I've had some success ! I took the left hand fork apart again and this time gently chased out the rebate where the fork oil seal sits with 600 grade wet and dry.After using the plain washer to drive in the top bush,I then used a block of wood on top of 50 mm diameter black plastic pipe ,along with lubricating with a drop of fork oil - to knock the seal in.It still has to be hit bloody hard in fairness though ! I think it only needs to have a very small amount of flaked paint/rust/crud and the seal becomes very hard to drive in.
I'll be attacking the other side shortly and will see if this method works again.Hope this can be of some help ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
I'm still waiting on replacement parts...was hoping to crack on today but not looking like it's going to happen....
I have some 1500 grade wet and dry that I used to remove a bit of rust on the fork which as done a remarkable job of cleaning up the chrome so I shall have a go at the bush recess and see how I go...
Your one fork ahead of me now.....
Also out of interest when you removed the front wheel did the plastic washers shatter as both mine did so that's another order I shall have to put in to W.O.T..
Oh and I had to buy another front axle/spindle as the hex key recess was in a very bad condition and I was lucky to get it off.....

Well done though mate on getting the job done....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
@Duckadiledundee

OK I can definitely say that my method works,I guess if you have done loads of these ( I haven't ) then its common sense to clean/chase out the rebate first and lubricate everything generously in clean fork oil.I managed to get the second leg done fairly quickly in comparison to the first.

Observations - Concentrate on getting the rebates for bush and fork seal absolutely clean and smooth,use a block of wood on top of your drift if using plastic pipe as I did,use a lump hammer rather than a normal hammer not that you are hitting it harder it's just that extra dead weight is very handy,whatever drift you use if not the proper Triumph one then make sure it is only in contact with the harder outer part of the fork seal And lastly take note of where the various cables/brakelines go in regards to routing around the forks.

Plastic washers ? The bungs in each end of spindle ? I don't think I had any on mine ?

You can do this mate :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
Nice one @Stagini..
Its a bit of a morale boost reading of your success...
I take plenty of photos on my tablet so as to aid me in putting everything back as it should go but even then things don't always work out...
On a twelve hour plus shift today and using my mobile phone which as no photos of my bike on...I will bang a few photos on when I get home if it helps so you can double check you got everything in the right place...
Congratulations on your success...its brilliant when people like us with no experience of motorbike mechanics actually give it a go and succeed..
I've spent many a frustrating day getting nowhere fast on fixing my bike...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
@dudckadiledundee
I've "fettled" with bikes on and off for years,I wouldn't consider myself a mechanic but I'm OK on the spanners and every day is a learning day eh ?
I've also been one to be armed with a Haynes manual,a reasonable set of tools and membership of a good forum like this.let me know how you get on once you tackle it again mate
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top