Emulsion tube and needle question - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: 1993 triumph trident
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Hi Greg hi Wire-wheels,

Yes, with that kind of needle wear the emulsion tubes must be nicely oval and a few sizes up. the lean situation has something to do with the cylinders position in between number 1 and 3 with an airbox which has the airflow wel directed toward the two outer cylinders . I assume the middle cylinder has therefore a bit less access to all the freshness and in consequence needs a leaner setting. So far what I have understood of the info found and heard. not much is available on the subject.

Wire-wheels that is interesting. I had a similar thought: what would happen if instead of capping the vacuum spigots you would connect them together. do you see the difference in pulses when hooking up the vacuum gauge?
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 10:40 PM
Grand Prix 125
Main Motorcycle: 96 !200 Trident
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Hi Vapor Lock, Mine are capped together.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2019, 01:56 AM
World SuperBike
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You will have to judge for yourself whether linking the carb ports is beneficial or not. My results are inconclusive. In my mind it stands to reason it would smooth out the vacuum signal. But I have never put a gauge on it to see. It is just something I do. ...J.D.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-16-2019, 02:53 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: 1993 triumph trident
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg96Trident View Post
Hi Vapor Lock, Mine are capped together.


"Capped together" as in linked. Or individually capped?

I find the idea of "balancing" the vacuum side of the three carbs interesting. "Belly feeling" would suggest only benefits or could it generate a loss somewhere.

I never had more than two cylinders on a bike. going from one to two and now to three, every step brought new and interesting mechanics with it.

Interesting stuff.



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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 09:00 AM
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Iím currently rebuilding a Ď95 Sprint and going through the same carb de-gunging process. I reckon that if I canít get the BST36 carbs to run right it might be cheaper overall to get some RS36s to replace them....
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-25-2019, 11:23 AM
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I connected the #1 & #2 vacuum ports and they connect to the petcock. The #3 port goes to the vacuum driven Scottoiler. Connecting the vacuum ports was a suggestion from a senior Triumph mechanic, I noticed that it smoothed out the idle. Another thing that I noticed was the sound at idle, what rattle trap. A guy asked me if the engine was a diesel. Adding a Dynojet carb kit helped get rid of some of the rattle. I guess when Triumph built the 900 engine, how it sounded was not a concern.

As for rebuilding the carbs the only re-occurring problem has been the idle fuel jet. The lengthwise hole is only 0.014 inch in diameter, that's about the size of a wire brush bristle. So if I let my bike sit for a few weeks sometimes one of the jets gets clogged. Make sure you have a screwdriver that fit perfectly into that idle jet. I bought a jet and then went and bought a screwdriver that fit the jet. Also check the vacuum cap rubber for holes or a tear.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-30-2019, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C4tweazle View Post
I’m currently rebuilding a ‘95 Sprint and going through the same carb de-gunging process. I reckon that if I can’t get the BST36 carbs to run right it might be cheaper overall to get some RS36s to replace them....
mikuni RS36 sound promising, would love to try them. finding some second hand will probably need a rebuild as well.

anybody around who did this swap? considering the cost of a complete rebuild, 950 euro is not that bad.

Last edited by vaporlock; 10-30-2019 at 06:47 AM.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: 1993 triumph trident
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Yay, the carb rebuild is a succes.

After 8 years of standing still with half a tank of petrol there were not many open pasages left. After taking the plastic bit of and a good long soak in carb cleaner, a warm ultrasonic bath and a bit of scraping and blowing , put it all back together. Looked like new.

The tank needed more work actually the out of rust and crud was impressive. Cleaned it out, rebuild the petcock, took the tanklid apart , clean some more.

Put everything on the bike primed some time and nothing. Just as I was about to give up trying thinking no gas or no spark, tried one last time and of she went. But only on the choke. Giving gas would stall her.

Took the carb of again, turn the idle air mix screws from 2,5 to 1,5 and the did the trick. Now for the fine tuning.

I am a happy camper today.


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