Daytona 1200 above 5000 revs - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: Gs1100g
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Daytona 1200 above 5000 revs

Hi peoples,
I have a 1994 1200 daytona that wont accelerate above 5000 revs.
carbs been cleaned twice, feels like it gets a gut full of air and no fuel.
slowly opening throttle make a minor difference but still nothing overall.
I have to ride around at idle to approx 4500revs then shift gears.
112.5 main jet. needle has no adjustment just one groove on it.
thoughts???????
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 09:14 AM
SOTP Vintage Series
Main Motorcycle: '98 T595 Daytona
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Do you know if all cylinders are firing? Header pipes the same feel temp?
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 09:18 AM
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: 96 !200 Trident
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Hi Sukzuki, I do my own valve adjustments and one time I got it wrong. I had one of the cam gears out by one tooth. The bike wouldn't rev past 7K. Another thing to check is the vacuum diaphragms. Look for rips or holes, or if it is twisted. Don't lose that little bitty o-ring under the vacuum cap.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Yes, Header pipe temp good across all four after a 10 min ride around the streets, ( but cant get above 5000r)
And yes diaphragms good and that little oring was replaced under all four caps.
Bike barely gets above that first level after cold on temp gauge, does the ecu kill spark if mtr doesnt get warm enough?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 08:44 AM
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: 96 !200 Trident
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The next thing to check is the valve timing. You won't have to take the cover completely off, just loosen the bolts to lift it. Also take the right side crankshaft cover off. You'll need a 15/16 (24mm) wrench to turn the crank nut. When the crank is at T1 the arrows on the cam gear should be pointing at each other at the same level where the cam cover meets the head.
Newer bikes have ECU's and the computer controls almost everything, spark advance, fuel injection timing, throttle opening, etc.
Our bikes are old school. The CDI box controls the spark advance, and rpm rev limiter, and that's about it. The side stand switch will kill the spark but it has nothing to do with the engine warmth.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 10:03 AM
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If your valve timing checks out, you could have a defective CDI or ignitor that Greg mentioned. I had a 2001 SV650S that started to bog down under load as if only one cylinder was firing. Went through all the systems, carbs, electrical, etc until I finally gave up and tried a used ignitor. You can't really test those units. That was the issue. You have an old bike and these electronic components do fail at times due to heat or just age. Good luck.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
Minitwins
Main Motorcycle: Gs1100g
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Other Motorcycle: Srad 750
Extra Motorcycle: 80 gsx1100. 1990 gsxr750
in regards to ignitor ? ( signal generator) on the side of the crank. That was replaced because was faulty, the second hand part i believe was off a trident of the same era. Guy at the wreckers said it checked out in regards to part numbers as triumph crossed over parts in that era.
my original didnt fire up the bike, i put new second hand on and presumed that part was ok. Did check ohms to it and it measured up ok. cranked the bike and started and ran.
Any chance that it is wrong or i have fitted it wrong? i think i was about .8mm clearence on it.
Checked Diaphrams against 2 sets of 90 gsxr750 kehin carbs and the 90s slides snaps back alot quicker than the trumpy carbs. Is that normal? almost feels the spring in trumpy has to overcome alot of vacuum.
Havent checked cam gear, that will be next.
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