Sprag Clutch Replacement will not be provided, as that topic has previously been discussed by others. I will discuss how to fix your busted sprag assembly.
The following will hopefully save you $200.00US in parts, and/or $1500.00US in service fees at your dealership. If you decide this is the way to go for you, please remember you do the following at your own risk.
It should go without explanation, that to repair your sprag clutch, you must first remove your sprag clutch.
Once removed, you will notice that the sprag clutch appears to be in working order. In other words, it will only turn one-way, and bind when attempting to spin the opposite direction. Trust me, it's junk!
Go to the auto parts store and get:
- An M6 hex-head Allen Wrench.
- "Green" loctite.
Do not attempt to use the hex-head wrench in a traditional manner, as it will most likely be futile. "Green" loctite creates a bond which is truly a pain to break free.
- Notice that there are (6) M6 hex-head bolts on the backside of the sprag clutch.
- Put the hex-head wrench into a vice, or small diameter pipe.
- Hold the sprag clutch in one hand.
- With the other hand, insert the hex-head wrench to one of the bolts.
- Now with both hands, push down on the sprag clutch, until the bolt unseizes from the loctite.
- Repeat 5x.
Carefully slip the outside sprag from the inside sprag. Do not dislodge the needle bearings in the inner sleeve. Now, remove the inner gear. It will look very similar to Losiu's picture @ advrider:
Remove the sprag spring, which surrounds the fingers. DO NOT REMOVE THE FINGERS. THEY GO IN ONE-WAY ONLY!!!
- Take spring to auto parts store, ask the parts counter to show you some shaft seals.
- Most domestic shaft seal springs are 2 sizes (approx. 1,2mm-1,5mm) in width.
- You are going to need the thinner spring(approx 1,2mm). The width is the most important measurement, as the spring must ride within the groove surrounding the sprag fingers. The one I used was for a Toyota (Sequoia?).
- The spring can be too long, just unwind where it is joined, and cut it to fit-Just BE SURE to cut the fat end of the spring and not the skinny end, as you'll need that end to wind back inside.
- I wound quite a bit extra spring into itself, and used green loctite on the ends to be absolutely sure of a tight fit. I had/have no idea what the original tolerances/lengths are, so I adjusted tighter than what I originally found, but not noticably stretched so that spacing was evident in spring coiling.
- When done, my spring band initially stretched about 0,25cm over the wider part of the sprag fingers. Rolling it to the middle of the fingers, the spring band seated in it's groove with a snap.
- Slide the inner gear into the outer gear.
- "Green" loctite the (6) M6 bolts, and button the two-halves back together. I have no idea of torque spec, so i just tightened them down as tight as I could in a star pattern.
My Daytona's starting has never been so solid feeling.
(thank you to losiu from advrider for the good pictures)
You can get more pictures from his post here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=222515