Sprag Clutch Failure, Part I - Page 3 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #21 of 107 (permalink) Old 07-01-2009, 04:29 PM
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Haynes says the clutch pushrod seal MUST be renewed - is this usually done? Same with alternator and starter seals?

Do I really have to remove the water pump?

It has been claimed that the clutch can remain in situ, which is fine. But why would I then have to remove the friction and steel plates? Can't it come off complete?

Can the balancer shafts remain in place?

Can the spring around the sprag be made too strong as long as it fits without overstretching?

My plan is to get the engine out as undisturbed as possible, remove the engine covers that cross over both crankcase halves, whip out the gearbox shafts, remove the !"&#& sprag unit, split it, fit a smaller/stronger spring and bolt everything back up with as little work and fuss as I can make without doing a sloppy job.

Doable?
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post #22 of 107 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 02:52 AM
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Hi,

From my experience of changing the sprag clutch last year:
I didn't change the pushrod seal (I actually forgot to order it)
I did remove the water pump - I can't remember why you have too though.
I left the clutch in place but removed the friction plates, it allows the gears to be rotated when re-assembling and reduces some of the engine mass when lifting out of the frame.
I didn't even take the cover off the balancer shafts, let alone remove them.
The next question I can't help you with since I bought a new sprag clutch.

Best of luck with the change, let me know if you have any other questions.
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post #23 of 107 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 06:48 AM
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Cheers, mate, useful reply :

I'm leaving for my summer vacation this Saturday, so I won't be able to do much other than take the engine out of the frame before we leave, but I'm trying to obtain as much information as possible so that I'm ready for the engine strip when I get home.

The weight of the engine doesn't worry me, I plan to take it out of the frame in one piece and dismantle it on the bench. I knew weightlifting would come in handy one day :

If anybody else have more information/tips/hints/suggestions, I'm grateful!
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post #24 of 107 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 03:02 AM
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I also wonder why must the starter come off? It doesn't seem to prevent removal of the sprag from the pictures I've seen?
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post #25 of 107 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 07:05 AM
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The removal and re-insertion of the sprag clutch is somewhat fiddly since it is quite deep in the engine casing, the time saved not removing the starter would probably be wasted on re-assembly.
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post #26 of 107 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 07:07 AM
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OK, thank you
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post #27 of 107 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 04:08 PM
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I won't have to fix the sprag - the engine is kaput. There is a HUGE coolant leak out of cylinder number two. Instead, I'll fit a Daytona engine known to be good.
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post #28 of 107 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 09:22 PM
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It worked!

What a great thread! I just did this last night. Took 45 min, and saved me $2000 that the workshop wanted! I sould have taken photos to post, but the description here is good enough. I was lucky enough to have a late 2003 S3 and didnt need to remove motor. If you ever come to Sydney, i'm buying you a beer or 30! Thanks Again!
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post #29 of 107 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 04:03 AM
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That's an entirely different engine, isn't it? How did you access the sprag on that one?

If it ain't broken, rip it apart and find out why!
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post #30 of 107 (permalink) Old 09-11-2009, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alterna View Post
If any other part of the sprag clutch let loose in your engine, you would most likely find shattered gears(not just teeth) in the oil sump.
This is good advice!
When my sprag went many years ago I took it back to the stealer for what I thought would be a relatively simple repair. After I got over the shock of learning they had to remove the engine and split the cases to fix the sprag, they then told me that a circlip had come adrift and found its way into the gearbox doing a nice little dance over most of the cogs and destroying them. I recently came across the invoice for this job and those gearbox parts are bloody expensive! A $3000 gearbox rebuild later I was back on the road.
So if you're doing you own sprag replacement, have good look around while you're in there for anything that might be floating around and doing damage.
Syd.
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