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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Throttle Body Balancing 13+ Street Triple R

Hi all,

So I had a little bit of a rough idle and decided to check if my throttle bodies were in balance. Originally, they were hovering between 670 and 690. After playing with them, I got them locked in at 660 across the board but i'm wondering if that is too low? RPM's at idle are around 1300 warmed up...is that normal? I stupidly didn't check before but I think bikes typically idle higher than your average car which would be about half of that.

It idles much smoother now but want to be sure i'm in spec. I see some ppl are around 650 but others are over 700 so i'm not sure what is normal and what isn't.

Also, anyone know what this connector is? It was sitting near the fuel line.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 12:11 PM
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I actually have this spec in one of my training manuals. However I’m going to be out of town this week and can’t check it. I believe you are very close though. It’s well within the range it should. Your idle is fine as well.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome, thanks for the input. If you wouldn't mind sharing the specs when you're back in town, I'd really appreciate it.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 05:17 PM
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Oh I missed your question about the connector. I’m pretty sure that’s the quick shifter connector.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacBandit View Post
Oh I missed your question about the connector. Iím pretty sure thatís the quick shifter connector.
Yup, you're correct. It's the quick shift connector.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 09:32 PM
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Well I found the spec in my Triumph school documents but I don’t know if I believe it.

It says 570mm/hg which is 760hpa which is what TuneECU measures in. I can’t recall ever seeing a 675 measure over 700. Maybe I’m remembering incorrectly though.

When you adjust them you should only ever adjust the outside two cylinders to match the middle one. This way you never move the overall adjustement since actual vacuum level is an indicator of flow problems or normal changes over time. Temp, atmospheric pressure, air filter quality combustion chamber cleanliness, valve adjustment, throttle body cleanliness, exhaust changes and more can all affect this number so it’s really only a useable number on a brand new bike under ideal conditions.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Well that's a little discouraging haha. Before I adjusted anything, the middle cylinder was around 680. After I started messing with the outer 2 cylinders, the middle one could only reach 660. Any reason it couldn't stay at 680 since it doesn't have its own adjuster?

I'm hoping some others chime in on this. Can't imagine my bike is running that crappy...at least I hope :/

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 10:25 AM
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The middle cylinder reading will change as the overall rpm changes. Just match the outer cylinders to it. Don't worry about a small change inits reading.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 09:09 PM
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I just did mine using tuneecu. Had a hard time fiddling with the two butterfly intake screws until I found a balance at 680 hPa and 1350 rpm idle

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by analog View Post
I just did mine using tuneecu. Had a hard time fiddling with the two butterfly intake screws until I found a balance at 680 hPa and 1350 rpm idle
Ok that makes me feel better. I found out my tps voltage is a little off so I'm going to do the tps adjustment and redo the idle adjustment. Hoping everything is silky smooth after

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