New Stator & Rectifier (R/R) Install - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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New Stator & Rectifier (R/R) Install

Props to andrewed1 for helping me troubleshoot, he has a similar thread which may be of use in this operation:
https://www.triumphrat.net/triumph-su...tallation.html

Here is my struggle in which i almost threw my bike off a cliff:
https://www.triumphrat.net/street-tri...tator-mod.html

Doing my research from this post, I decided to use the Compufire R/R:
https://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html
Do yourself a favor and do the damn continuity test!!! Each of the pins from the stator should show continuity (resistance) and no continuity to ground.

Okay on to the install:

Stator

I started by draining the oil. You should do this whether the bike is leaned over or on stands (admit it, you need to do an oil change anyway):


You will also have to remove the tank to access and unclip the wiring to the stator. The white 2 pin is to the pulse generator from the bike, and the black 3 pin is to the stator from the R/R. Unclip them both


Now remove the stator cover including the stator. keep in mind that there are magnets involved here (how do they work??) and some guiding pins, so you will feel it on the way out. Dont lose the pins, just put them back. Same goes for the starter gear if it slips out, just put it back. dont rotate anything.




Here is the old stator:


To remove the stator undo the 3 bolts holding in the unit, the two bolts holding on the pulse generator, and the one bolt holding on the wire cover.

Installation is the reverse. Be careful not to put stress on the wires, and to tuck the new wires under the cover so they do not get hit while in operation. Also, you will notice the stator is oriented such that the wires feed through the gap in the mounting on the cover.

A quick note: Here is the new stator i bought. I removed some zip ties that i thought were packaging. they were not packaging and i ended up creating a continuity to ground... FML


I had to replace it... again. I recommend using one with insulation so it holds everything in place:


this would also be a good opportunity to put in a new connection if you want. again, i used the connection recommended by the link above. here is the amazon link for you lazy people:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F9BCB2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00


Now it is time to put everything back together. Try to cover the internals while you scrape off the residual crap from the old gasket. you want to get this as clean as possible, but dont scratch the surface. there are plastic razors that work okay, but i ended up using a metal scraper anyhow. BE CAREFUL.



Now use a fresh gasket (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDOUKK4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00) and lightly coat both sides with RTV. I used Red, but i hear Black is better. I havent had a problem so far. Be fairly quick about it, the RTV will set in less than an hour.
Put everything back together, you will feel the magnets again, and make sure you line up with the guide pins. Dont forget the hose mount thing! Tighten bolts in a star-ish pattern like you would a car tire so you get even pressure.

Wait an hour to put oil in, and 24 hours before you start her up.

Congratulations, you are a bad ass mechanic!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Rectifier

This gets a little annoying, because the british, like the germans, decided to be different. so they had to put the rectifier in a really tough spot. You will want to lift the bike on its spools, the use car jacks under the foot pegs to hold the bike up so you can drop the suspension. Undo the nut under the seat before you remove the rear stand. You may have to push the swingarm down a little to get the rear suspension bolt out of its hole


Now you should be able to access the two bolts on the top of the R/R bracket (Not the ones on the R/R itself). Make sure the unit is unplugged from the stator (3 pin) and the harness (4 pin). and remove it from the bike.

FYI: this 4 pin is actually 2 wires split into 4

Now you can remove the R/R from the bracket. You will undoubtedly find out that if you are not using a stock replacement, the new unit will not fit the old bracket. you can just use some aluminum stock to relocate the holes.

I ended up using the top stock location and extending the bottom hole, so you see 1 extra. also, the bottom stock location had to be countersunk so the bolt didn't hit the unit.

Initially i wired the power back to the harness (the 4 pin connection), and there was WAY too much slack in the cable so i shortened it. this pic is basically me being proud that i soldered such a large gage.

I later decided to wire it straight into the battery. I plugged the 4 pin connection back in, and covered the 2 wires that used to go to the R/R with electrical tape.

Now reinstall the bracket with your new R/R, plug in the clip to the stator, and you should be good to go

The swingarm ended up tapping the bottom fin and bending it when i bottomed out on a little offroad excursion... but we wont go into that. Point is, that this interference is OK.

Congratulations, you are pretty much an electrical engineer now!
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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here is the album because the pics got resized

http://imgur.com/a/D54lj#0
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 08:28 PM
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Great Write up...

What voltage are you seeing now?
did they replace the old stator under warranty?


For the R/R Installation did you consider moving the new bracket to run across rather than up and down as there looks to be enough room and would correct the clearance issue and possible R/R damage/short caused by the swing arm.




I away love it when we can fix it ourselves.. Great work..


Last edited by andrewed1; 09-09-2015 at 08:35 PM. Reason: added smily
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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im seeing about 14.75v at idle now, and yes, i considered rotating the unit, but then the wires would have to point down and either interfere or make a hard turn, so i reasoned this was the best way. the fin is just mildly bent up, electrically it has 0 effect, and the effect on heat shedding is negligible at most.

As for warranty, i was already on my 2nd r/r (recall) and 3rd stator, so i decided to upgrade the whole system. technically i didnt need to replace the R/R, but from the writeup i referenced at the top, this unit runs a lot more efficiently. i now have a very robust electrical system that SHOULD last (knock on wood!)
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 03:20 AM
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Can I ask why you state wait before adding oil then wait 24 hours before running?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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To allow the rtv to dry
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