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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Is this the right battery?

I’ve recently bought a 2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050 & it wasn’t charging the battery. Took to garage for new regulator / rectifier & a new stator. The stator tested fine so wasn’t replaced but the RR was knackered so had that replaced with a better unit than the stock one.

All charging fine now at 14.2V but it’s been difficult to start on the button.

One thing the mechanic mentioned to me before I left was it would be a good idea to replace the battery when affordable as I’ve no idea how old the battery is?

Started shopping online & all the batteries that are showing for my bike are different to what’s in it? Eg. The identifying numbers & letters etc.

Please can someone take a look at the image of the battery that is in my bike currently & tell me if the last owner was a total whopper & fitted the wrong type of battery?

I’d be eternally grateful as this issue is driving me nuts & id like to be able to enjoy what’s left of the sunny days this Autumn (Fall) season.

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 11:47 AM
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Workshop manual spec:

YUASA YTX12BS
10Ah capacity

Peak current (starting current) 180A


If the second number is the peak current you should be fine.

Don't know this brand though.


Fred
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredsprint View Post
Workshop manual spec:

YUASA YTX12BS
10Ah capacity

Peak current (starting current) 180A


If the second number is the peak current you should be fine.

Don't know this brand though.


Fred
Numax is quite a well known brand, but my issue is the size of the battery.

Yes it says it gives 210 CCA but I have no idea how old it is so it needs replacing.

I’m going to go with a Motobatt but I’m not sure whether to replace it with their YT12 size or the YTX12 size.

The YT12 (that’s currently installed is much slimmer. Doesn’t require any tools to remove. Just lifts out nicely, yet I’ve read a lot on here about people taking their bikes apart just to change the battery.

So the YTX12 must be much bigger compared to a YT12?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 02:06 PM
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I've replaced a few batteries on my '06 and stuck with the Yuasa YTX12.The original was a factory activated battery because it installs on it's side but I've not had any leaks using the BS - bottle supplied - model. I have to lift the rear of the petrol tank to R/R the battery so the one in your bike is a smaller case version which means smaller plates. A 12 is rather marginal for this bike and is sized to suit the space available so best to go with the best battery available. If you search this forum you will find where some have installed Lithium batteries with smaller physical size, less weight in a higher amp hour rated model, but they do have some downsides also.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UlsterSpud View Post
I've replaced a few batteries on my '06 and stuck with the Yuasa YTX12.The original was a factory activated battery because it installs on it's side but I've not had any leaks using the BS - bottle supplied - model. I have to lift the rear of the petrol tank to R/R the battery so the one in your bike is a smaller case version which means smaller plates. A 12 is rather marginal for this bike and is sized to suit the space available so best to go with the best battery available. If you search this forum you will find where some have installed Lithium batteries with smaller physical size, less weight in a higher amp hour rated model, but they do have some downsides also.
Yes the YT12 (currently in bike) is a lot thinner than the YTX12.

For example, as I look at Motobatt which usually has 4 terminal points (it’s their thing), on the YT12 Motobatt there’s only 2 terminals. So that’s how much slimmer they are. It’s like a YTX12 that’s been cut in half, or perhaps a third cut off.

But defo slimmer.

My issue is, with a brand new R/R & stator all fine, charging at 14.2V, I’m still not getting a decent fire rate on the button.

Either it’s sluggish to fire or just doesn’t fire.

So I’m wondering if my battery should be replaced as I’ve no idea how old it is?

Which is all fine but...

...YTX12? or YT12?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 07:07 PM
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What is the battery voltage when hitting the start button?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 07:57 PM
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I'd go with the YTX12. I don't know what is different between YT and YTX other than dimentions but the smaller physical size might suggest that is less capacity despite the high CCA number.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
Minitwins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felony View Post
What is the battery voltage when hitting the start button?
I don’t know, but I can test this is you like? What should & shouldn’t I be getting?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 07:45 AM
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This voltage would be a load test of the battery. If the voltage drops when cranking over the engine into the 9-10V range, then the battery is not holding a charge and needs to be replaced. If it drops to maybe 11.5V, that's okay.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-08-2019, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felony View Post
This voltage would be a load test of the battery. If the voltage drops when cranking over the engine into the 9-10V range, then the battery is not holding a charge and needs to be replaced. If it drops to maybe 11.5V, that's okay.
Yes, or the internal resistance is too high, which causes a voltage drop when high current flowing.
Maybe that's what you meant.



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