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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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2000 Sprint sitting for too long

I started helping my friends dad with his 2000 Sprint RS a few months ago and have hit dead end after dead end trying to fix it. The bike was purchased by the owners friend who rode it for 268 miles and then parked in his garage. He passed away and my friends dad bought it to help pay for the funeral and never rode it. That was close to a decade ago. The bike will not start but will turn over.

So far I have changed out the oil and filter, coolant and replaced all coolant hoses because they were dry rotting, put new plugs in, replaced fuel pump, filter, and all hoses inside and out. I also wiped down the inside of the tank which was full of sludge. I took the injectors out and soaked them in a cleaning solution. Once the bike is running it will need the chain oiled and new tires (both original). It also has a new battery that is on a trickle charger for peak cca. Also has all new turn signals because old ones dry rotted.

The fuel pump sounds like its priming when the key is turned on so I don't think its the relay. I have tried disconnecting both of the hoses to the fuel sending unit to see if it will spew gas into a bucket but had no luck. The lines are not clogged and actually will leak out of the sending hose if I slosh the tank around. At first I thought the injectors were clogged but the fuel flow when the lines were disconnected.

I only have about 3/4 of a gallon in the tank right now but that is because I don't want to have to drain a lot back out if I have to get back to the pump. Do I need to put more gas in it for it to function properly?

I was getting the trio of codes for turning the key on with the gas tank disconnected. Now I cleared the codes with the tank on and only get the P0463 high fuel level sensor circuit.

This is the second motorcycle I have ever worked on (not including dirt bikes) and first that started off not running. I have been searching and lurking through the forums but haven't found anyone with the same problems I'm experiencing. Please help even if its just providing links to threads that I may have missed.

Also if someone wants to take on the project the bike will be for sale once its running (or before if someone wants it)

OS
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 04:20 PM
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The outflow is the bottom connector (with the hose)
To test pump ONLY disconnect the return hose from the UPPER fitting; Leave the bottom connection via the short hose, connected to the Fuel Rail.

Now - is the MALE fitting on that return hose plastic? It may well be if it just sat all those years (there was actually a recall on these fittings - the factory replacements are metal and non-valved) - if it IS plastic, that means it is the original and is valved which means it won't flow unless the valve is opened (which it does normally when engaged in the female) - so when disconnected from the pump upper fitting, you have to manually hold the valve open while you turn on the key.
And you must not run pump with either the bottom fitting disconnected or the top one with the valve closed - if you do you are dead-heading full pump pressure and it can blow hoses off or rupture them inside pump

Quote:
... so I don't think its the relay ....
P.s. no fuel pump relay on that bike

p.p.s. The PO463 error probably means the fuel level sensor (under the very bottom or rear of fuel cell) is either disconnected, or the wires from it are broken off. It's very easy to break off those wires if you don't know its there and think you have everything disconnected off the fuel pump plate and then lift the tank out.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 08:47 AM
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Another thing to try is to squirt a bit of fuel into the cylinders, either through the spark plug holes or (easier) the throttle bodies. Then see if it fires.

The IAC hoses are almost certainly shot - the rubber ends tend to crack. Replace them with 6MM vacuum hose (avoid kinks).

Put a voltmeter in line to watch the voltage when you crank the bike. The ECU doesn't tolerate low voltage. If it tanks when you have a new battery, check the chassis ground and both battery connections.

Add your location to your profile, it may help.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
The outflow is the bottom connector (with the hose)
To test pump ONLY disconnect the return hose from the UPPER fitting; Leave the bottom connection via the short hose, connected to the Fuel Rail.

Now - is the MALE fitting on that return hose plastic? It may well be if it just sat all those years (there was actually a recall on these fittings - the factory replacements are metal and non-valved) - if it IS plastic, that means it is the original and is valved which means it won't flow unless the valve is opened (which it does normally when engaged in the female) - so when disconnected from the pump upper fitting, you have to manually hold the valve open while you turn on the key.
And you must not run pump with either the bottom fitting disconnected or the top one with the valve closed - if you do you are dead-heading full pump pressure and it can blow hoses off or rupture them inside pump


P.s. no fuel pump relay on that bike

p.p.s. The PO463 error probably means the fuel level sensor (under the very bottom or rear of fuel cell) is either disconnected, or the wires from it are broken off. It's very easy to break off those wires if you don't know its there and think you have everything disconnected off the fuel pump plate and then lift the tank out.
I broke the plastic fitting and ordered another one but that is plastic as well. I tried holding the valve open to see if fuel would flow but I didnt get any flow. I took the fuel pump back out over the weekend and the lines were intact. I also blew out the lines to make sure there were no major blockages.

The wires on the bottom of the tank look intact but I will check them once I get a voltmeter

Quote:
Originally Posted by pushr0d View Post
Another thing to try is to squirt a bit of fuel into the cylinders, either through the spark plug holes or (easier) the throttle bodies. Then see if it fires.

The IAC hoses are almost certainly shot - the rubber ends tend to crack. Replace them with 6MM vacuum hose (avoid kinks).

Put a voltmeter in line to watch the voltage when you crank the bike. The ECU doesn't tolerate low voltage. If it tanks when you have a new battery, check the chassis ground and both battery connections.

Add your location to your profile, it may help.

Welcome to the forum!
I took the airbox off and the hoses and connectors were all still soft and intact. Im going to squirt some starter fluid down the throttle body later today to see if I can get it to cough a little. I dont have a voltmeter but Ill be getting on from soon and will check the voltage and the grounds. Right now the batter is on a trickle charger just to be sure.

Thanks for the replies!

OS
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JTSprint View Post
I broke the plastic fitting and ordered another one but that is plastic as well. I tried holding the valve open to see if fuel would flow ...
Which one did you break .........

Follow my procedure EXACTLY leaving the bottom flow path all connected and ONLY leaving the TOP (return) connection unconnected - and again if that MALE fitting on the RETURN hose is valved, it needs to be opened.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
Which one did you break .........

Follow my procedure EXACTLY leaving the bottom flow path all connected and ONLY leaving the TOP (return) connection unconnected - and again if that MALE fitting on the RETURN hose is valved, it needs to be opened.

I broke the plastic one coming from the left side of the fuel rail. The one leading from the right is metal. I tried taking them both off and opening the valves but neither flowed. I was able to put fuel in the throttle body and get the bike to run for about a second.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the one on the left side of the rail is the supply and the one from the right is the return through the pressure regulator?

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 03:32 PM
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Don't worry about fuel rail as far as which is supply and return - won't make much difference

But the correct convention per manual is the RIGHT side of Fuel Rail is the supply and connects to the fitting exiting the bottom of the two on the Fuel Pump (the one with the short hose)
And the LEFT side of Fuel Rail is the Return (goes to TOP Fitting directly into the pump plate without the hose)

On pump, the BOTTOM one (with hose) is SUPPLY (outflow) and the TOP one is the RETURN (which then goes through regulator - without anything connected to the top fitting, flow will be unregulated.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
Don't worry about fuel rail as far as which is supply and return - won't make much difference

But the correct convention per manual is the RIGHT side of Fuel Rail is the supply and connects to the fitting exiting the bottom of the two on the Fuel Pump (the one with the short hose)
And the LEFT side of Fuel Rail is the Return (goes to TOP Fitting directly into the pump plate without the hose)

On pump, the BOTTOM one (with hose) is SUPPLY (outflow) and the TOP one is the RETURN (which then goes through regulator - without anything connected to the top fitting, flow will be unregulated.

Now I'm really confused about what the issue is. I took an injector off thinking that they were completely clogged and found the fuel rail to be bone dry. I blew in the injector hole and air came out of both hoses when I pushed the valves in. I have one metal male and one plastic male and the metal one will only fit in the supply side. Should I look into replacing the female connectors? the supply usually will dribble gas out after I disconnect so I am really confused.

Any help is appreciated

OS
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 11:53 AM
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Replace the plastic fuel fittings with steel. Even if the plastic bits are intact (and probably not for much longer!), they may not be sealing properly.

Make it a habit to hold the 'lock tab' down when you engage and disengage the fittings. It's easy to nick the o-rings.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 10:33 PM
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JT,

Good luck with the Sprint. Sounds like you're getting closer to fixing it. I hope you get it up and running soon. You should post some pics of your progress. Very interesting thread, and the guy named DEcosse will help out getting it all sorted.

People who say they don't care what people think are usually desperate to have people think they don't care what people think. -George Carlin
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