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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up SPRINT GT Wilbers 641 Install

Hello all!

It's been a while since my last confessi-whoops since I last wrote a how-to guide so please bear with me. I have purchased a Wilbers shock to fit to my Sprint GT and here is the install from a mechanic & mechanical engineer's point of view. I have added my usual poor-quality humor to the post to keep you entertained.

Why Wilbers?

I love their product. Very smooth and confident riding equipment, very high quality and the added bonus of customisable colouring and when you order your shock, it is built for you eveyry time. Spring rate, valving, everything.

First of all, unboxing:



Very nice box. *giggidy



In the box (you're still chuckling, arent you..) is a well laid out package (lol). All the instruction sheets are there however I must say that you usually only get a simple picture of the installed items, fitting the shock is to be done in reference to the shop manual. which I have, and is still carefully preserved in it's plastic.

In the kit is everything you need, as below:



May I also suggest you have the following available to you, for a quality install:

Some more zip-ties,
duct tape (now this sounds like a great party), and
6mm x 20mm screw (gawd)

Next post I will start with the disassembly.

Chris Coote

No longer riding, sadly. I got very broken in Feb 2017 and thatís about it.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Before we procees, here is the shock:


Chris Coote

No longer riding, sadly. I got very broken in Feb 2017 and thatís about it.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Covers and panels removal

To get at the shock you need to remove the side covers and move the undertray (battery box) slightly out of the way.

Firstly remove the cases, seat, any tools and spare food you have under your seat. Give yourself some space to play with.

SIde covers:

Undo the velcro tabs just behind the fuel tank:



Then these two screws just in front of the grab-rail:



Below you will see a small black screw just inside the side cover, remove that screw taking care to use a #2 phillips blade screwdriver. Leave the grommet in place. Below it is one of 8 undertray screws to be removed (more on that later)



TOP CASE/ HANDRAIL MOUNTS:

The top case and hand rail mounts need to be loosened but not removed. you only want to lift it up enough to clear the side cover.

There are 6 in total, four in the top case mount (or on teh deck if you have no top case) and the two under the seat. note that one of the bolts under the seat has a nut (RH side) that is not captured, so you'll need a spanner.





Make sure you can lift the hand rail frame up enough to allow the side cover to pop out of the way.



Remove the side covers, noting there are two captured grommets and one additional velcro patch at the rear.

Chris Coote

No longer riding, sadly. I got very broken in Feb 2017 and thatís about it.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Battery

To remove the battery and battery box, it is simpler than you think. much better than the ST1050.

Firstly remove the battery. NEGATIVE (BLACK) LEAD FIRST!!!! then you can undo the positive without fear of your spanner touching the frame and arcing, and blowing up your ECU.



Then under the battery is three bolts. these hold the OEM preload adjuster in place, and the rear-most bolt holds the ECU. undo all three.



Then remove the ECU cover plate:



And finally the ECU. NOTE: there are two plugs, be careful but they should come out easy if you have pushed the retainer clip in far enough.



Then remvoe all 8 undertray hanging bolts:



The rear brake reservoior mount bolt :



and the two under the rear:



Also cut the cable tie holding the main harness adjacent to the battery box:



The battery box should be loose inside the rear subframe, push it down a bit and while bending the back-board of the ECU mount back, you should be able to see enough room to pull the shock up out of the bike.

you are now ready to unbolt the shock itself.

Chris Coote

No longer riding, sadly. I got very broken in Feb 2017 and thatís about it.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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Shock removal

To remove the rear shock, you must support the rear wheel in some way that you can elevate it slightly to remove and replace the shock bolts. Here is my patented tool:



There are two bolts to loosen on the shock linkage. the rear one, in the picture, loosen. the front one, the shock through-bolt, remove (one side is 8mm HEX, other is 14mm nut).




Two thick spacers will fall out. just don't lose them.



Then remove the upper shock bolt, same tool sizes as the lower bolts:



The shock can then br brought out in two stages: preload adjuster then the shock itself:




IT'S A BOY!

Chris Coote

No longer riding, sadly. I got very broken in Feb 2017 and thatís about it.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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New installation

To fit the new shock, drop it in the way the other came out, shock body first, then slide the reservoir and preload adjuster through to the right side of the bike. install the upper and lower bolts, using the proprietary tool to adjust the linkage to make sure the bolts go in easy.







To fit the lower bolt and spacers, you need ether three hands, or follow my advice:

1. Slide the bolt in through the link, and then the first spacer.
2. slide the bolt further through, into the shock.
3. place the spacer in place and then push the bolt all the way.



Tension all the mounting bolts NOW. DO NOT FORGET TO RE-TIGHTEN THE REAR LINKAGE BOLT ON THE BOTTOM!

Next: reassembly of the bike

Chris Coote

No longer riding, sadly. I got very broken in Feb 2017 and thatís about it.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Re-assembly

After the shock is re-installed, re-assemble the undertray and refit the ECU, however you will need to block off the two bolt holes from the old preload adjuster, and use the 6mm bolt to re-mount the ECU bracket, as seen here:



Do not forget to replace the cable tie that you cut on the main harness so you could move the undertray (remember that cable tie goes through a hole under the harness to locate it).

Do not forget to put the POSITIVE terminal back on first, then the earth. make sure the key is off first, so there is minimal electrical draw when you put the earth lead back on.

Bolt the preload adjuster to it's new mount, on the right-hand foot peg. fit it to the footpeg bolts one at a time, so the whole muffler assembly does not fall on the floor!

Fit the remote reservoir in the recommended position, and "poke" the hydraulic preload adjuster line up alongside the brake reservoir and cable tie into place.




Chris Coote

No longer riding, sadly. I got very broken in Feb 2017 and thatís about it.

Last edited by chriscoote; 05-21-2015 at 01:05 AM.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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SET-UP:

I have always found the Wilbers to be spot-on out of the box. this is again perfect- 50mm static sag with me only. 15 clicks of preload (of a total of 50) is spot-on for me and two panniers, lightly loaded (bike cover). it came with 12 clicks of rebound, and 13 clicks of high and low-speed compression. I usually don;t change them much unless riding heavily loaded with pillion and luggage, then I go up 2-4 clicks of high speed compression, the same for low-speed and two clicks in for rebound (maybe more, but never more than 5). I dont expect that this will be any different.

Chris Coote

No longer riding, sadly. I got very broken in Feb 2017 and thatís about it.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 09:05 AM
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Thanks for a great write-up Chris.

Kap.

2011 Sprint GT - Pacific Blue with Carbon Fibre front guard, Trident stuby exhaust, Radguard radiator protector, Geelong carbon fibre tank protector, R&G frame sliders and rim stickers.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-21-2015, 10:52 AM
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I had the same shock fitted to my ST and professionally set up.

Preload was the same but Rebound was 4 from minimum and compressions were all bang on middle
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