You must remove the forks from the bike.
I just did this last weekend, and here's how. Forgive me if this is old news. BTW, it is a good idea to do this every 12,000 miles/2years.
Remove both sections of the fender, and remove the brake calipers. Hang each caliper from the upper tree with a straightened wire coat hanger.
Remove the front wheel. (If you haven't already, go to the hardware store and buy a bolt with a 3/4" (19mm) head, and two nuts. Jam the two nuts on the bolt, and you have an axle wrench.)
Start with one leg. Loosen the cap with a 17mm wrench or socket, then loosen the tree and handlebar pinch bolts. Remove the fork leg, then CAREFULLY unscrew the cap. You get no bonus points for putting a dent in your ceiling (or face) when the cap comes free. Dump the old nasty fluid in a suitable container, pumping the leg gently; and then rinse the tube out with clean mineral spirits. Set aside to drain completely.
NOTE: I'd look at the fork seals (not the dust covers) and see if they look like they are deteriorated. I doubt they are. If they do require replacement, you will need to tear the legs down. Although there isn't much to it, I'd get the service manual. You will want the illustrations. An air impact wrench is the hot tip for removing and reinstalling the damper rod bolt (the one in the bottom of the tube, with the copper washer.)
The service manual says the capacity of the tube (dry) is 459cc. The factory fill is 8 weight, which is not available around here. I used Suzuki 10 weight. $4 per 16oz. bottle.
With the tube compressed (no spring), you fill the tube to 145mm from the top. Extend the tube, insert the spring (which you cleaned), and then put the cap back on. I had a buddy helping, so we put the fork leg on a couple of newspapers on the floor. He pressed the cap down flat against the tube, whereupon I turned the tube. Worked great!
Wipe the trees clean, and reinsert the tube. The top of the cap should be flush with the surface of the handlebar mount. Tighten the pinch bolts to 40nm (30ft/lb). Tighten the cap until it stops turning.
Repeat for the other tube. Reassemble all the hangers-on. Make sure you attach the speedo drive the way it came off (drive teeth engaged, and drive cable tending straight back).
Another tip is to use a big flat screwdriver to collapse the brake calipers. Do this with the caliper as close to the ground as you can, starting with the left hand caliper. If there was a bubble in the line, there won't be when you do this. You can also take the opportunity to syringe the old fluid out of the reservoir and replace it. Be sure you pump up the brakes before you take the bike out for a ride.
I am 205lbs, and my front suspension is too soft, but I like the performance of the 10 weight oil. I'm probably going to go with RaceTech (http://www.racetech.com/SubMenu.asp?...howPage=street
) springs, when I get the money.
I apologize for the excessive verbiage. Hope this helps!