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post #5891 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 05:55 PM
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I can offer another data point on the Ferodo Sintered pads: they are NOT initially grabby like the EBC ones are.
That's why I never tried them before (along with accelerated disc wear compared to the Platinums).

If you're worried about going on your head with the sintered Ferodo pads in wet weather, don't be.
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post #5892 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 03:40 AM
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My experience is almost what Steve said

I've been using the Ferodo Sintered pads for years on my 2004 Daytona 955i and really like them for the greater stopping power compared to other pads I've used on this bike.

But also have been using for a long time now the Ferodo Platinum Organic pads in my 2011 Sprint GT.

The Ferodo Sintered provide more powerful braking especially on a track with constant braking had less fade, but also more powerful braking on the road. They are not the most outstanding in the wet in my opinion though, ok but not amazing.

But for an all-rounder wet and dry weather the PLatinum Organics are better in the wet than the Sintered pads for stopping power.
So on my much heavier GT which I also ride quickly two up often, I prefer the Organic pads

At least this has been my experience for almost 10 years and my personal preferences, may not be anyone else's though!
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post #5893 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 01:48 PM
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So far the Metzler's seem good. No chance yet to test them in the wet.
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post #5894 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 07:43 PM
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Move to Central Pennsyltucky, you'll see all the rain you can stand.

On the way home from work I noticed that I didn't have any headlights which is not so good.
Parking light was okay, high beam flasher was okay but no headlights.
I get home and power to the fuse, new fuse no improvement, no power to the headlight and grounding the headlight connectors didn't do anything so into the switch.
Say, shouldn't that brown wire be connected to something?
A couple of seconds with a soldering iron and back in bidness.
I KNOW the previous owner was in there as the wires weren't routed correctly under the complicated mousetrap of metal stampings that they have in there so the wire got strained when I changed bars and finally popped free.
I cheated and looked at the Yellow Banana and it's back together the way it's supposed to be.

While I'm at it, horn is okay, turn signals are okay, foot brake works the light okay, no light for the front brake.
SO, off comes the wretched microswitch and a shot of WD40 and a dozen clicks on the plunger and it works. I gave it another shot, another dozen clicks, put it back together and all is good in Guzzi Land.
(Felt like I was working on an old Moto Guzzi with the little electrical issues going on today).
I always used to replace the microswitches with long shaft hydraulic ones on the Guzzis, I may end up doing that to the Sprints if I encounter any more problems with them.
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post #5895 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 09:08 AM
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Steve, just go ahead and get a replacement for that switch on order. You can open it up (carefully!) and file off the carbon on the contacts, but once they get that way, they tend to stay that way.

It seems like I found that switch somewhere other than Triumph, but I don't recall where. Probably a Kawasaki part...
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post #5896 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 06:03 PM
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Low-rise bars

When I first rode a 1050ST after my 955ST, I felt it had lost the sporty feel and I was sat up too straight by the bars. A month ago I fitted a set off an '01 955ST, and after a few weeks of riding, I must say I love the position. The bike handles better for me, and with my riding style seems more agile. Definitely more comfortable, and I'd happily recommend the swap for anyone who finds the 1050 a little too "sit up and beg"...

"I just want to ride" Joe Satriani, Flying in a Blue Dream, 1989
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post #5897 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 10:53 PM
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^ Surprising that they're interchangeable.

2002 Sprint RS: TOR silencer, LSL bars, Laminar lip, factory tail rack with Givi top box, custom painted OEM panniers (one of 'em anyway - sad story), M-Factory lowered pegs, Penske shock.Thanks for all the help, Kit!
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post #5898 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chickenstrip View Post
^ Surprising that they're interchangeable.
Straight swap; depending on what year 955 you may need to drill for the locating pin on the switch block. Comparison photo here: https://www.triumphrat.net/attachmen...n-imag2341.jpg
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"I just want to ride" Joe Satriani, Flying in a Blue Dream, 1989
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post #5899 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 10:25 AM
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The 955i ST bars are the same as the early 1050 ST bars.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

-- Scott

I probably need an intervention because of the bikes that keep 'following' me home. Current garage:
2001 Daytona 955i, 2 yes two, 2003 Sprint 955i STs (spouse rides one), 2016 Speed Triple, 2001 Kawasaki ZRX 1200R
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post #5900 of 5955 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MileHighScottie View Post
The 955i ST bars are the same as the early 1050 ST bars.
Interesting! There's a 45mm (about 1 3/4") difference in height between my '02 955 and '07 1050 bars.

"I just want to ride" Joe Satriani, Flying in a Blue Dream, 1989
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