Setting the Idle Air Control Valve - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-16-2011, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Setting the Idle Air Control Valve

I have a 1999 ST Sprint and am trying to complete its 12,000 mile service. I have done the valves which required one change of an inlet valve. I have a Carbtune to set the throttle bodies and also had to make up some adaptors push on adaptors so I could get the carbtune set up correctly. I've linked the tank up to operate whilst off the bike and the engine is nice and warm and I have to unscrew the idle air control valve so I can get to the adjustment screw on cylinder 2. Anyhow both cylider 2 and 3 are out so I adjust until the 3 levels on the carbtune are the same. All is going well until I try and connect the idle air control valve back up. The plunger has moved out slightly and I cannot get the unit to fit inside its housing so the mechanism can be screwed back onto the bike. What does one do ? How do I get the plunger to depress slightly so the whole lot can be screwed back on ?

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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 07:15 AM
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Scotty, have you got any pictures? I have an 04 and on that you don't need to touch the IACV to get at the TB screws.

Does yours not look like the one in this thread?

https://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-for...rol-valve.html

If you have to move the IACV, the whole unit should be removable. They do not really like being taken apart. The plunger is operated by a stepper motor in the housing so you may find it has been trying to move the plunger to 'control' the idle while not inside its housing.

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Rexxy

I've looked at your pic and my idle control valve is totally different being on a 1999 bike. Its necessary to totally remove it to adjust the throttle body screw on cylinder nos 2.

The problem I have is the plunger has opened on the idle control valve and therefore I cannot get the plastic housing to fit over the control valve so it can be screwed back onto the bike. Is there a way of getting the plunger to depress ? Its controlled electronically via the bikes computer. Is there a sensor I can blow into or something which will make the plunger depress ? i don't want tio use force to force the plunger back. Has anyone got any ideas as I would really like the bike to be running this weekend as I hav'nt had a run out in ages.

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Scotty
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 01:41 PM
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You should be able to "force" the plunger down. It will move. Then when you assemble it and turn your key on, it will extend to the closed position, then retract and open up. That's how mine works on my 02, but I AM ASSUMING IT WORKS THE SAME ON THE 99. If I'm wrong, please let me know.

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Charlie. I've just been out in the garage and got this sorted. I screwed the white plunger cap in and that seemed to depress the plunger sufficient enough for me to get the screws fixed up. There is a bum piece of advice in the Haynes manual here that says the screw should be torqued down to 12NM. When I did this I split the plastc housing that the motor/plunger assemply fits into so I loosened off the screws and will leave it at that. I will probably have to replace the plastic housing sometime in the future but its good enough for now with the bike ticking over properly again.

Balancing the throttle bodies would be far easier on the newer 955i bikes I think as the idle control valve can stay in place all the time. Well its done, that's the main thing and will run much better now as the throttle bodies were out, especially cylinder nos 3.

I was hoping to fit a Scott oiler tonight but it has'nt arrived and I don't want the hassle of taking all the parts back off the bike so its going to sit in the garage until the Scott oiler arrives. Scott oilers..................a great invention from Scotland. Check their website.

Thanks
Scott
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 05:11 PM
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Scotty,

Did you say your IACV does not look like the one that rexxy referenced to on the other thread? Only I have a 99 sprint as well and it looks the same as the pictured.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Quik d. That's interesting. They must have changed the design very early on. My bike could have been one of the very first ones to be made. My set up is definitely different and the unit has to be removed to get to the throttle body screw on cylinder nos 2.

I also adjusted the front pre load tonight as I feel the bike is too soft on the front and also adjusted the pre load and damping at the back too. One thing I'll say about these bikes...........the fairing sure helps to keep muck off the engine etc. Its really good removing a dirty fairing to see a nice clean engine bay area.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2011, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Just checked Rexxys picture again and the set up here is totally different and much superior to the one on my bike and its the reason my throttle bodies go badly out of synch after about 6,000 - 7,000 miles. The throttle body adjustment screws on my bike are spring loaded ie the screw passes through a spring before screwing into the housing. The screws are on the top of the unit and not below. With engine vibration its probably easier for the screw to turn and go out of adjustment on my bike as its really only a spring thats tensioning it. It looks like the newer models have screws that fix directly into the housing and these would stay in tune longer as it would be much harder for them to turn with engine vibration.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 07:33 AM
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I'm not sure, but is it possible to hold the adjustment screws in place by applying a spot of RTV silicone or similar?
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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The problem is that the spring itself turns which in effect turns the screw. Applying silicon or locktite to the screw would only secure the screw head to the spring which turns with the vibration anyhow. Its no real problem only that I have to re do the throttle bodiees every 7,000 miles or so. At least its better than my old BMW R1100s which needed the throttle bodies balanced every 2k
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