Hi all
I've a 2005, 1050 S3, and last week my bike stopped charging.
It's my main transort and I had to use it to get to work and back, so I carried a charger with me and charged the battery at each end of my commute till the new Rec/Regulator came.
This week my commute was furthwer away and on the last journey it spluttered and the dials spun round, then stopped. I assumed the new Rextifier/Regulator and fresh battery would start it again, but unfortunately not.
I've read a fair few threads about No Spark, but couldn't find one that talked me through how to chase whether the issue is a coil, the Ecu or a pickup; -(-or something else!)
Can anyone link me up? or if you have the time, write up a troubleshoot for my problem please?
Also, do you think running the bike without a working Rectifier / Regulator could have done electrical damage elsewhere?
Thanks for any help
GC
Hi all
I've a 2005, 1050 S3, and last week my bike stopped charging.
It's my main transort and I had to use it to get to work and back, so I carried a charger with me and charged the battery at each end of my commute till the new Rec/Regulator came.
This week my commute was furthwer away and on the last journey it spluttered and the dials spun round, then stopped.
I assumed the new Rectifier/Regulator and fresh battery would start it again, but unfortunately not.
I've read a fair few threads about No Spark, but couldn't find one that talked me through how to chase whether the issue is a coil, the Ecu or a pickup; -(-or something else!)
Can anyone link me up? or if you have the time, write up a troubleshoot for my problem please?
Also, do you think running the bike without a working Rectifier / Regulator could have done electrical damage elsewhere?
Thanks for any help
GC
Thanks Fred.
So last week it didn't start out of the blue, it didn't have enough charge to spin over fast enough, so initially I thought I must have left the ignition in parking light mode, and I charged my battery and it started fine.
It didn't start the next time I came to it, so I checked whether the battery was getting charged when it was running, to find out it wasn't.
I ordered a new rectifier/regulator and rode to work a couple of times with my battery charger in my bag, and charged the battery each end of my commute.
The last time I used it I went further than normal, and it started to splutter; the dials spun around; then it died. This last time the tacho actually stuck at 8k if that helps identify things.
I got it home, then recharged the battery (it's new at this point), and put the new rectifier/regulator on, thinking it would start.
Now it's got no spark, and I'm not sure how to go about problem solving where the issue might be. I've read about various things, like checking the pump relay, whether the injectors and coils have 12v and to check the stator, but could do with a pointer on how to do it!
Thanks a lot
Gc
Can you post a video? The ECU needs a minimum rotation speed. If not, if won't do anything.
Does the dash needles do their dance when turning the key?
Does it accept to crank over only after the dance is finished?
If so that means the ECU still controls the starting relay ground (no ground when dancing), and so it's alive.
Also, There is 12.87v across the battery, (10.85 When cracking). when I switch ignition on I get neutral, oil and engine light plus the tacho sweep, and the pump prime noisr plus and there is 2 district clicks from the relays.
All the fuses are okay and passing 12v, but I've just noticed an unplugged connector behind the air intakes. I can't see anything it should be plugged into however..
Hmm, can't seem to attach a video, it will only see pics.
But to answer tour questions, yep the crank will only happen after the dials dance, but I'm not sure about the other question concerning the ecu speed, sorry can you re-explain?
The url must begin w/ www.youtube...To I just clicked on the URLs and youtube converted them.
So the rotation speed seems normal.
At that point the usual procedure is to try to determine whether the fuel injectors are activated or not.
If they are that means that the ECU actually sees the crankshaft rotating. So the crankshaft sensor is ok => the issue is elsewhere.
If they are not, the crankshaft sensor might be the culprit.
The simplest way to check whether the injectors are activated is withdrawing them from the throttle body and see if they spit while cranking. The less simple way is to use an oscilloscope.
You may use TuneECU to double check whether there is any logged fault code.
Thanks Fred. I can't see the injectors spitting when I look down the intake with the butterfly open, but I'm not sure if there is fuel in the rail.. I'll take them out and re check.
Sorry I see that the fabric underneath is budging so I imagine the fuel is coming out but I can't see it. I guess there is fuel then. So the crank pickup is OK.
BTW I don't get what you meant by "should the rank be connected though?". You mean the fuel rail? Connected to what? Fuel line? Of course yes.
Do you have something to check the fault codes (TuneECU or any ISO9141 code reader)?
Hi Fred, the fabric is pulsing from the intake compression, (it's over the intake stubs) -the actual rail and injectors are exposed, and there's no fuel coming from either injector, -I've put the tank back on but left the rail exposed to see this. I don't have anything to check fault codes I'm afraid.
Anyway, assuming you plugged the fuel line and you get fuel injectors spitting fuel while cranking.
Next step is to check whether the coils are faulty, or the coil are not powered (not receiving 12V), or the ECU not switching the coil ground (ECU shot).
First check whether the coils are powered (key on). You may use the frame or the battery -.
Then check the resistance of the coil primary. It should be 0.8~1.2 Ohms.
If checking gives good results, then you may check the ground pulses from the ECU providing you have an oscilloscope handy (I doubt that though).
If all the checkings are OK and you don't have switching pulses from the ECU, you may try in a last resort to reload the map in case the floppy voltage caused some troubles to the flash memory.
..........
Beyond that point we may assume the ECU is shot. Still it's not the end of the world as there is plenty of them on ebay. More Sprint than Speed Triple though but it's the same part T1292100.
Thanks Fred. I haven't got fuel spitting from the injectors at this point though.
The injectors are getting 12v, and the coils are also getting 12v.
Do I go back to the crank sensor now?
Thanks Fred. I haven't got fuel spitting from the injectors at this point though.
The injectors are getting 12v, and the coils are also getting 12v.
Do I go back to the crank sensor now?
OK. What I understood as fuel spiting was the suction from the intake that made the blanket budging:nerd:.
So if you don't get any fuel spiting while the fuel line is connected and the pump primed, you may have a problem w/ the crankshaft pickup. It seems the ECU doesn't see the crankshaft rotation.
Again if you don't have yet TuneECU it's time to get a cable and install the software. Because you may have another condition that prevent the ECU from trying to start up. A corrupted flash memory is part of them. So you may have to reload the map.
In the mean time lets check the crankshaft sensor resistance. ~540Ohms. Gap 1mm.
Great, thanks. I'm having difficulty getting the sensor off atm. The bolt seems seized, and the water pipe above it is pretty much in the way. I'll heat things up and have another go after the wd40 has soaked in.
I've looked into the tuneecu dummies guide and it seems pretty straight forward. That cable is a fair chunk of money though (tight n
Yorkshireman speaking!).
Just to note, you can't write maps over a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter, but as Fred says clearing error codes is fine. I use TuneECU android and a cable with an adapter all the time without issue.
Okay, thanks fellas.
I haven't been successful in getting the sensor out, but it then occurred to me I should be able to at least check it electrically from the plug end. Only thing is I'll be dammed if I can figure out how to dissconnect this plug. I've not seen one of these before and can't see how to remove the metal clip (if indeed that's how you undo it). Have you undone one of these? And if so, how?
In the mean time lets check the crankshaft sensor resistance. ~540Ohms. Gap 1mm.
Fred[/QUOTE]
So, update is that the plug was just stupid tight, and that clip does indeed come off with force.
Also, the sensor reads 521 ohms, -that's a lot less than 5.4k eh?
Do you think that's now to blame?
I've just bought that cable too, and will try tuneecu out when it arrives
Edit: - I got your ohmage wrong. You said 540, not 5.4k. Me bad. Annoying though as I thought it could be at fault.
Where should I go from here do you think?
So, update is that the plug was just stupid tight, and that clip does indeed come off with force.
Also, the sensor reads 521 ohms, -that's a lot less than 5.4k eh?
Do you think that's now to blame?
I've just bought that cable too, and will try tuneecu out when it arrives
Edit: - I got your ohmage wrong. You said 540, not 5.4k. Me bad. Annoying though as I thought it could be at fault.
Where should I go from here do you think?
I never did that w/ this sensor (did it w/ an automotive one though):
Usually those sensors are made of a magnet w/ a winding around it. Like a guitar microphone. You may check if it's a magnet easily.
So if you connect it to you PC microphone input (you have to build an adapter...) and use an oscilloscope software for PC (there is plenty of them for free) you may check whether it's generating a pulse whenever you pass a piece of iron simulating a tooth of the sensor dial. But if you have the correct resistance you should be fine.
You may inspect the connector closely and use contact cleaner.
Also inspect as closely as possible the cable.
I don't know any method to control whether the sensor actually generates pulses that are read by the ECU.
Next step is using TuneECU.
Fred
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