Your attached images are small so I couldn't enlarge them; however, if it really is the Notrun mounting casting, it's better than the Triumph one as it incorporates a mounting for a proper brake lamp pressure switch. Given this was made for Notrun, the pre-'79 shonky junk cobbled up for Triumph beggars belief.
If you can post some pictures of just the existing master cylinder and any existing switch cluster on the right 'bar, I might be able to offer more detailed advice.
Mmmm ... was the pattern an ally Grimeca? If so, less unsprung weight than the original steel caliper and imho looks better - bear in mind the chrome cover is only a 'go-faster stripe' to cover the ugly steel caliper ...
If the pattern one is a Grimeca, check the mounting holes - the Grimeca was 'all metric', possibly including the mounting holes being 10 mm. ID rather than the 3/8" of the studs.
If you intend changing 'em, Mini Green Stuff are cheaper and better than paying for packaging like "EBC HH", "Ferodo Platinum", blah. However, there seems to me more than one grade of Green Stuff so I can point you at a couple of suppliers of different grades that are known to work well on bikes.
Looks like the one Harris came up with for his Bonny; if it is, it's stainless. Only problem with them and a single disc is they weren't designed for keeping the sliders parallel under hard braking. The standard '73-on "Bridge" is better, if not brilliant.
Ian reports the Hyde brace is better.
You know about checking for cracks where the swinging arm mounts to the oil tank/tube, and to have it strengthened as per later OIF?
Put a Charlie's filter in the bottom of the frame tube and/or an external filter between engine and tank/tube return and you'll never be concerned about the "sludge trap" again.
You don't mention the brake hoses? Lockheed recommended they should be changed at no more than ten years old. However, no remaining part of "Lockheed" makes 'em.
Nevertheless, I haven't used even a Lockheed hose since the early 1980's, all Goodridge braided with stainless end fittings (spendy but Kwol, hoses I made (easy to make) in the early 1980's are indistinguishable from any made even recently
). If you're changing caliper and/or master cylinder, maybe consider replacing the hoses and pipes at the same time?
Not quite ready for the Tiger strip yet - there's still some good weather to be had! But, hey, may as well make a start on the thread.
Some photos attached to kick off with.
The bike had had some repair work done in Canada before I bought it. The thinking is that the PO had started to sort it and then either lost interest, or ran out of money, or something else. The engine has clearly been apart relatively recently, but given the 2 or 3 stripped threads around the rocker boxes, only half a job was done. The frame had a number of loose fasteners, so I think the engine was done, or part done, and the whole thing thrown together to get it to a rolling state to get into a container and off to the UK. There were a number of small parts missing, but it came with a set of rubbers and a few other bits. I was aware of this when I bought it and looked upon it as a project to see if I could get it roadworthy - and succeeded. I'd not had a bike needing work since my last Daytona back around 1981. My later Honda NTV600 hardly ever needed a spanner.
I have no idea when the frame was changed, but it looked like the whole thing had been together for some time. There's no evidence of accident damage; TOMCC suggested that the original frame may simply have suffered from corrosion given that it's spent all its life in Toronto - or maybe it suffered the cracking around the swinging arm spindle? Who knows. I wrote to the last registered owner in Toronto but have had no reply.
Got it to run fairly easily - thorough overhaul of the carb, re-set tappets, check head bolt torques, checked all fasteners, new ignition wiring, new battery and a static timing check for the Boyer, new plugs, caps etc. Was very circumspect at first as I had no idea what the state of the engine was, but took it steady, checked the condition of the oil regularly (no debris etc) and gradually gained confidence in it. Also strobed the timing soon after getting it running.
Was mightily relieved to get a '71 age-related plate for it, with the help of the TOMCC - the original Canadian title did not refer to the different frame number. I could have registered it as a 73 Tiger from the engine number - DVLA would never have known unless they had it inspected, but I wanted to be up front and explained the situation to DVLA, and they gave it a registration based on the frame number - as they always do. Even if 90% of the bike is a '73.
It's never missed a beat all summer, the oil circulates fine, the oil pressure light goes out as soon as the engine fires, and stays out for maybe 5-7 seconds after switch off.
So, to your points:
OIF frame cracks - no, news to me. I'll have a look when it's been blasted. No oil leaks in that area though. Any links for the repair?
The master cylinder' s a Norton - as I understand it, and that was the repair kit that fitted too. It was full of oily rusty water when I stripped it so I wasn't hopeful, but it cleaned up OK and has done 1000 miles this summer with no leaks and the lever is fine in use. It doesn't have any provision for the RH 'bar switch - and I have now sourced the correct Lucas console switch for that side (Stafford autojumble came up trumps for that), so I'll restore the matching pair with a new M/C and lever assembly - that's the plan.
The new caliper is a Grimeca - it works fine once I sussed out the fasteners. All new bundy and hoses too this summer. It would just be nice to put that cover back, but it does not fit over the Grimeca caliper. In the interests of originality - but given the non-matching numbers it's only worth going so far.
The front m/g is stainless, and it has an odd hole on the rear nearside - any idea why? It's in perfect condition, but again, it would be nice to go stock - but I'm aware of the bracing issue. ATM, the forks work perfectly under braking - or as perfectly as I need. The new pads took a while to bed in, but now they have they are as sharp as I need.
Charlie's filter - yes, aware of that. Much better than an external filter I think.
Given that the forks work fine, are nice and progressive and they bounce back nicely, I'll probably just drop both forks out and not disassemble them, other than an oil change. They don't leak and the outer dust cover is new. I reckon the forks had already been done and I see no need to strip them.
I will, however, strip the engine to find out what I've got, and change bearings etc as necessary, all perishables, check the sludge trap, sort the stripped threads, and have the ally bits vapour blasted. However, it uses no oil, there's no smoke, it starts easily and reliably, there's loads of compression and it pulls like a train. It's a bit clattery so maybe needs something in the primary - the adjuster was mangled when I got it. We will see. But, when I bought it, the piston tops were brand new and shiny - so I reckon the engine is basically OK.
The gearbox and change gave me a lot of trouble, but eventually got it sorted. Misplaced layshaft thrust washer and a 4 spd gear change quadrant and worn springs etc. It still has an occasional idiosyncracy in changing up 2nd to 3rd, but that's all. Otherwise it's fine. A bit stiffer than my Daytona is, but fine, smooth and not noisy.
Will also have the wheels stripped, hubs (comical at the back) polished and re-spoked - my wheelbuilder reckons that they've been apart relatively recently but there are a couple of seized nipples and loose spokes.
The centre stand is so worn that both wheels sit on the ground - the centre stand goes way too far forward. That makes it really hard to get it off the stand - and since I'm no longer 21, that's an issue. I'll get it built up with weld and ground back so that the stand stays nearer the vertical. The bolt holes are fine.
That's the plan, anyway. Keep as much originality as possible, given the T120R frame, but get everything working and respectable, and reliable fun to ride. I'm surprised at just how much fun it has been this summer, despite its tatty appearance, and those plastic side covers are plain horrible.
All comments and suggestions gratefully received.